Ugh...
I'm working on a customer's game and they have a Funhouse too, apparently it's one their brother inherited... I'm trying to be cool.
I've spent a lot on parts, project arcade games, etc... this month, so I'm conspiring how to get it eventually.
I think I've got until the end of July.
I've got atleast another visit or two to finish their other game.

I put up a recent thread regarding "upgrading" my Funhouse speakers which might be worth a read.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinball-pro-speaker-muffled

Rudy seems to have a vision problem. I’m quite new to Funhouse, so am wondering if maybe the eyes both skipped a tooth, or how to align them back up.

Also, the playfield is down to the wood in a few spots. What are my replacement options and what is the suggested route given those options. This is going to be a location game, so I might not do anything right away, but would like to start planning.

There will be more questions, But I’m very happy to finally have this game.

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Finally, Funhouse will get 6 ball multiball - at least the way Rudi sees it.

Rudi‘s face and head are fairly easy to dismantle and I think the gears become visible when you do it.

Cool. What might have caused this, and is it reasonably common?

A part/s are worn out/broken. Likely the eye ball linkage and/or the eye ball itself. The linkage is available, new eye balls are not. However I believe pinbits sells an eye ball repair kit. As far as a replacement playfield, I'd steer clear of Mircos reproduction. The clear coat is soft, it WILL crack and the ink underneath comes off (MUST use Cliffy hole protectors) and the drilled holes have a good probability of being drilled 1/8" off on the right side of the playfield. Not to mention almost every hole needs to be redrilled.

Bummer on Mirco. Maybe I'll add my voice to the few asking for a Hardtop or look for a decent original.

Can you give more info on these boards? Vendors and prices? I would like to add them to my all LED FH. Thanks.

My experience was different. I did my swap last year with a new Mirco PF for my FH. I think there was one hole missing, a few dimples on the back side off. All and all, not a bad experience for my first swap. Cliffys are a must regardless, and just like any stern PF, if you have a spot that airballs, it will dimple top side. YMMV

if your going to route it, unless the PF is destroyed (or your looking to put top quality games on your route) I would clean up the PF as best you can, do touch ups where needed and spot clear (or mylar) over it.

http://ledocd.com/

There are likely more spots, but the obvious wear areas are the scoop kickout path and in front of both slings. It'll go out as is (after full LED job and some other small repairs) and see if a Hardtop comes out in a year.

Factory VS aftermarket. It's like the entire right half of the playfield was misdrilled. And the last straw was the side rail holes being drilled crooked AF. I filed a charge back and won the case. Andnspent $2200 on a NOS clear coated by Kruzman. I had friends of a friend at TPF who went by the booth and they looked at the playfields there. Same mis drilled holes and soft clear coat. If you need more proof of how bad these are go visit the POTC thread... same clear coat self destructing. I have many many more pics ... but if this doesn't dissuade people those won't either. Post a WTB FH playfield ... there are a small handful of wall hangers out there that people will sell.

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Which vendor was your aftermarket PF?

And this is a friends pin, same pf manny. On route for ~ 6 months. His holes were drilled correctly but the topside is self destructing. Notice how the clear coat pools around the post (no it is not over tightened) and notice how the ink is gone. The clear destructed and the ink came up with it. This royally sucks because I appreciate anyone who helps this community but when they are releasing a sub par product and then laying blame on installers that's no cool.

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I'm a reasonable man. I understand it's entirely possible there couldve been a small handful of defective runs. It can and does happen. But they were still put out for sale knowing full well the defect/s are present. If the holes are drilled wrong these are junk and should be sold with stated potential defects with price severely reduced.
Recap:
Soft clear coat - excessive pooling
Holes drilled 1/8" off
Holes drilled crooked for side rails

All I can say is lay the new on top of old. If the holes are off get a refund.
YOU MUST USE CLIFFYS or similiar products or this WILL self destruct on holes.

What was the date of purchase of your Mirco playfield?

This board would not be needed since I have coin taker super bright non ghosting LEDs right?

I have been very cautious about Mirco playfields since seeing the JJPirates playfield issue thread. Chipping around scoops has been more of a JJP thing from what I have noticed, and Mirco makes those playfields. Then now there is the mushy clear around the posts.

I have cleared a few games. One of them is a Taxi with similar wear to what my Funhouse has. Other times I did a nice job, but for this one I just wanted a quick and dirty clear job so I could protect what was still there and get it on route. I never had these issues and this game has over 2000 plays on it. Not sure I want to tear this whole playfield down as well to clear it, but have to at least consider it.

One more question: what was the feedback by Mirco?

Both were purchased in the last year. Mine specifically about 3 months ago.

Short answers:
You MUST USE hole protectors or it will chop
The clear pooling around the posts is because they were over tightened.
I showed him pics of my friends friends playfield and told him I had reservations, he said he would stand behind his product but wouldn't pay for the playfield to be swapped again. Keep in mind he was contacted by that guy with the crap playfield and offered nothing. As the build progressed that's when we found the holes drilled crooked and off kilter. I had zero faith left in this product and even though he said he'd stand behind it, the people at TPF said the ones there were also like mine. That's when I pulled the plug. I had emailed him with pics and concerns and no answer in 4 days. That's when I pulled the plug. I found several articles on RPB where this companies products clear were also cracking on all sorts of different models.

After seeing the POTC thread debacle and people asking about where or what to buy it was time for this to become public. I'm waiting to see if Wonkas pf shits the bed too.

I have had minimal issues with my Mirco pf swap. But it was a huge undertaking. As Arcadenerd mentioned, I too had to drill two holes that were not present. I also had to widen some of the post holes with a dremel tool. Had I not done this, and jammed the posts through the hole, I probably would have had lifting or cracking clear.

I also used the dremel drill bit set recommended by Kruzman (and many others here on Pinside) to clean away and remove clearcoat at every single dimple and hole on the top side. This is critical to do or else you will have cracking/lifting clearcoat. I also drilled 1/2 inch pilot holes at every screw hole.

The need for mantis or cliffy protectors seems like it goes without saying on a brand new playfield. This seems like common sense. Any Bally/Williams game from the 90's that had outholes had the same issue with wear around the edge of holes. this is not unique to Mirco playfields.

I think a playfield swap is a major endeavor and perhaps the manufacturers should produce a check list of what needs to be done to the pf step-by-step to avoid any issues. But perhaps this is impractical. I just know if I had not read a million threads about this i would have run into issues. It is not a simple process.

I own the LED OCD board, they are great. I don't have the GI one, which is probably the more important one in this game. I just haven't been playing the game and forgot about it. Maybe spare no expense is a bit strong. I could have had a new cabinet built, there is no extra powdercoating or chrome. I didn't think it would match the game.

No disrespect intended. I'm sorry to hear you had so much trouble with your swap. Had I gone through the same I would be pissed as well.

My only point is that not everyone has had the same experience as you.

My WOZ that i have had going on 4+ years has been flawless and that is a Mirco PF. My FH that I bought about a year ago (and swapped in last year) has held up fantastic.

My understanding of the POTC issue is not the PF clear, but the cheap posts with a sharp lip that were wrenched down too tight.

To each his/her own. Going to go play a game of FH now

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Those LED's fix the ghosting part, but not the ramp up/down. The LED OCD basically simulates the fade in/out of an incandescent bulb. With the LED's as-is its either on or off. For me, in my FH the LED's strobed really bad and it bothered me. With the LED OCD board, adding it was night and day. In my TZ it really didnt bug me so I didnt put one there.

Really, its preference. If you are happy with your current LED's, I would just leave it alone.

That's a lovely looking FH.

Regards LED strobing this can usually be fixed simply by disabling GI dimming in the settings. But yes, if you want to retain the intended characteristics of dimming during play (particularly midnight Multiball) then GI OCD is a must. I can't imagine just having one board in so I'd say do LED OCD too

Without the OCD boards it's an eye straining mess. Much more pleasurable to play softened up. I just added these to my LOTR as well for the same reason. And for the record the OCD boards were designed for and work better with REGULAR LEDs. Ghost busters do cause problems ... I've tested that scenario.

Still trying to wrap up my FH resto.
left issue on the list is the superdog ramp opto; not registering at all.

Does anyone have pics of the wiring for the emitter and receiver?
I have 12V constantly on the black one, and when I make a short between the 2 on the white side it registers.
Already tried changing the diod but no change. So I am thinking that it might be wired wrong (or I may have put the received in palce of the emitter and vice versa, don't know where they should go...

Any help greatly appreciated to finally declare this finished!

edit: solved, was a mix of miswired cables + defective opto

If anyone is still looking for Rudy eyeballs, I've just started a thread on the Planetary Pinball "Parts (and art) Wish List" forum asking about eyeballs and face plastics.

I suspect that if we let them know there is demand, they may be inclined to produce a few.

Finished!

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Do they have the molds for them? Please post back if you see a response on if they will or will not make them.

At the very least, as I understand it, they are the owners of all the Bally/Williams IP, and would be the ones responsible for either making or authorizing the making of them. As for the actual molds, I have no idea, but if anyone does, it would be them. Meantime, I would think that if a bunch of people jumped on the thread, it would let them know that people are interested. I'm not sure if it's ok for me to link to the thread, but if you go to their website and look for it, I'm sure that's where we'll find out.

The "crank", part number 03-8428, that moves the eyes back and forth on mine has a broken hole. I'm also missing the U shaped metal that connects the eye to the crank on that side, "wire eye link" part number 12-6928. That might be lost in the wires in the bottom of the cab because it sure wasn't just sitting there when I looked. I can remake that though.

Am I alone in needing the crank and likely at least one new eye? There were 10k of these games made, and they are well loved.

Dumb question but wouldn't you just need someone with a working head to get it molded, scanned or whatever to get 3D printed?

Pretty close to how I would guess. When I took off the front and back head pieces the back side of the back of the head felt paper thin. It had a small crack and isn’t really at risk of getting beat up with the ball, but it didn’t feel very comforting while handling it. Set it down gently, in a safe location and don’t look at it wrong.

That's not easy, and requires lot of time, lot of labor and process steps. I know, I have created Roadshow heads.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/road-show-club-hard-hats-required-on-site/page/21#post-3900065

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/road-show-club-hard-hats-required-on-site/page/21#post-3902820

I'm working on a 3D printed crank. So far it's in what I would call "late beta". The project files are freely available, or I could send you one if you're willing to report back with any issues or inaccuracies.

The upper face plastics look to be vacuum formed, and they wouldn't be a good candidate for 3d printing.

Forgot to say, this is 3D printed:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/road-show-club-hard-hats-required-on-site/page/21#post-3902820

I’m getting my son a 3D printer for his birthday in a few weeks. Maybe I will CAD up my part and do some test printing with it.

My Rudy has one original eye and one newer eye. The newer one has a metal grommet in it. I'm looking for this size grommet and can't find it anywhere. The factory wire is .075 and the #2 screws used in the following link have a diameter of .086.

http://www.sandsmuseum.com/coinop/sample/funhouse/index.html

The sizes I am finding are #00000 which is .0625, and #0000, which is .125. .0625 is going to be too small, and .125 is larger than the .100 I measure on the grommet in the eye I have, which is slightly worn. I have looked for a 3/32" size, which is probably what I want, but haven't found anything. Anyone have more google-fu than I do?

https://www.goldstartool.com/grommet-size-chart/

EDIT: I think I found some... Spent an hour looking last night and just stumbled onto something right now.

That's impressive! I assume it's printed in ABS with acetone vapor smoothing? They look molded!

Thanks. That's PLA followed by post processing steps (filler, sanding, filler, sanding, flexible paint, clearcoat).

Wow! You're right, that IS a lot of work! A great effort, though, they look fantastic.

does anybody have a comet led list put together for Funhouse?

I’m going to do Comet 2SMD (2835) frosted natural whites everywhere. That’s my go to for GI and it just makes it easier for me to do them everywhere.

Can't go wrong with that.

Colour matching GI can lead to blowing out artwork imo. It can work sometimes (eg. sunlight and ice blue on Tron) but generally natural white is safe and works well everywhere.

Got some time to do up Funhouse with a Pj dunno! Another setup that I really like.

Code (open source). https://github.com/elyons/professor_pinball_pinduino_sketches/tree/master/Funhouse-Ramp

Installation/build: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1e0kWf7s69OS23fKkJAoQRolKfgYZT9ljgUUAi473pjY/edit

Plug and play kit (if you don't want to make it yourself): https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1025-professor-pinball/02684-pinduino-funhouse

Who’s is this? Wasn’t aware of another (assembled) FH in Tucson.

Go home Rudy, you’re drunk

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Oooh, not just drunk, that's a pretty gnarly barfight...

Looks like Marco's is out of stock on the eyelids.