Having a problem where the ball will exit the wire form to the right opening and landing on the sling plastic . I've tired to reposition where the wireform mounts but it hasn't helped. Anyone?

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Only thing I could think of: maybe the ball is hitting the metal flap on the left side and bouncing out the right? I would pull the glass and hold a ball there to see.

I’m frustrated. I can’t for the life of me figure out why Rudy’s jaw will not move. I have tested the motor, checked the gears, checked for shorts in the wires, fuse f116, j126, and checked the high power driver board. The driver board does have a transistor that tests like it’s shorted at Q5, but when I replaced it with a different tip107 it reads the same. I’m thinking this is where the problem lies but am very limited in my knowledge to know better. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I had an issue with Rudy’s jaw and it turned out it was the motor itself. Motor would work fine in test mode but under stress of game play it worked intermittently. Is this similar to your issue? Or does it not work at all? I messed around with driver board, gear crank, everything, but once I replaced motor I was good.

Good advice here. I would add- use the slow motion video feature on your phone and watch why the ball is bouncing out. I had issues with the right plunger lane after my pf swap and I only was able to trouble shoot by watching the ball plunge in slo mo.

I would trim the plastic protector it looks like you have on there.

On mine, I have the blue rubber flush with the right hand side and the ball trajectory from the wireform hits dead-nuts in the middle. Yours looks like it is is flush against the left. Maybe try repositioning?

I used the slow motion video as Elicash suggested and turns out you were correct! I slightly tweeked it and all is good. Rudy and I thank everyone who
Contributed !

Fixed it. Had to replace the high current driver board. I thought I checked everything on it but couldn’t find anything wrong. Someone had worked on the board previously so who knows what could have been done to it. I also ordered the motor too, not knowing for sure if it was behaving like elicash’s. The motor wires were soldered incorrectly too, since everything was backwards so it seems like the mouth was a problem for a while.

I will be doing a complete restoration in a few weeks so right now I’m calling it “Fugly Funhouse” until I can get the time and funds to get started. If anyone has any input or restoration tips specific to this pin I would greatly appreciate it.

Does Funhouse utilize the real time clock in the game? I have a battery holder that is giving me troubles and am thinking of putting a NVRam in it. I know some games like TZ and DH use the clock in game but I have never noticed anything with FH. There isn’t any secret midnight madness or anything like that?

I didn't think Rudy could get any more creepy until a few minutes ago.

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Sometimes golf tees work better for larger holes too

Some before and after pics of the backbox restore over the weekend. Still needs a new translight but otherwise it’s good to go.

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Hello all you crazy Funhouse owners! I recently designed, printed and hand-painted some switch covers for Diner that are very popular. A friend suggested they would look great on the Funhouse step ramp. Well they do and they fit just great. I am selling a set of 3 for $30 + shipping. I will deliver to TPF for free. Shoot me a message if you're interested.

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That's actually pretty funny!
Can you make them the the factory orange color?

Maybe, I'd have to color match the ones from Diner. I went with red on those. The Funhouse blue was an easy match.

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For those who were looking for a replacement eyeball crank, I've started this project:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/3d-printable-eyeball-crank-project-for-funhouse-and-road-show#post-4894589

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Nice , can you supply all the gory details? I need to restore mine and would appreciate a description of how to proceed

Nearing completion of my cab resto. Redecal, made all the labels, new translite, new speaker panel, clean and polish all metal parts etc

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Looks great, she's a beautiful pin when all dolled up is Funhouse.

It's alive and back on the line up

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Looking real good mate! Fits back in perfectly with your awesome lineup too.

Thanks very much

Just read through some of the funhouse restoration threads. It's not that bad.

basically, document/take pics of all the wiring

unplug everything from the boards, remove the backbox

remove the boards, remove the metal piece behind the boards

remove the decals (some sand off, other heat-and-peel (or scrape)) heat and peel worked great for me.

sand sand sand, bondo, more sanding, more bondo, more sanding.

primer it, paint it, decal it.

put everything back together )

That sums it up

Hey there, I am also nearing the end of my funhouse restoration.
Anyone knows where I could find Rudy's face?
Mine has a crack and as everything else will look new, I'd love to find a pristine one.

Can try planetary pinball or Mr pinball in Australia

Thanks.
Went to check their online stores but no luck unfortunately.

Lots of parts not listed on Mr pinball website. Best off emailing directly and asking. Always been good when I have.

Let me know if you find one, I’ve been looking too.

i am still in need of a set of Rudy's eyeballs and the white plastic linkage to move them right and left.........I know they are hard to find........but some Funhouse owner must have some stashed away

Ok, mailed. We'll see

I'm working on a 3D printed replacement for the eyeball crank. If you don't mind helping out with some beta testing/product development, I'd be happy to send you one in exchange for some feedback. Of course, I'll also send you updated versions as they become available. Alternately, if you've got access to a 3d printer, I can point you to the files.

If you're interested, let me know via PM and we can discuss details.

Everyone every where is sold out on his front face and I believe jaw and eye balls as well. The last face I saw on eBay went for $250 (yeah no thanks). To fix the crack use an automotive grade plastic repair kit. Then sand it down and then take it to someone who does air brushing to redo the entire head. Then shoot it with a dusting of a dull/satin clear coat. My .02

Thanks I do the airbrushing myself, will check for the automotive plastic repair kit!
Thanks for the idea

Wondering ehy no one re-cast it if when ramps are home made...

I have been in the process of restoring my funhouse and have the new CPR plastic set. There are a few plastics that were not found on the pin and do not know where they belong. Where do these belong?

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Doing the same and impatiently waiting on my Mirco Playfield as well.

The small 4 ones were promo stuff that you can chose to put here and there.

The large one, no idea.

Funhouse fans - looking ideas on how to improve the action out of the scoop on my restored Funhouse if it's possible. I'm having a hard time getting a clean bounce pass as (I think) PL intended. Recently played one on location that behaved the same way. It will bounce from the right flipper to the left, but it's not possible to cradle as the ball doesn't make it quite far enough. Here are the things I can think of and suggestions would be appreciated:

* Cliffy installed could be slowing ejection down or changing the angle slightly?
* The plunger from the coil is original and could be slightly worn and affecting the speed/velocity?
* Flipper angle a touch too high?
* Rubber used? (standard rubber set, anything with better bounce action?)

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tough one. Mine works as you noted (coming out of the scoop it will dead bounce off the right over to the left and I can cradle it). However, a friend also has one (with the same Mirco repro PF) and I cannot do the same dead-bounce-right-to-left-cradle. It's gonna either be one of two things: 1. velocity, 2. angle. You'd have to really look at the other one to see how yours is different.

If you think its velocity, when you did the restore, did you change that coils sleeve? clean it? new spring?

if you think its angle, i assume just loosening the scoop and giving it a slight tweak might do the trick (even the smallest twist could make a diff)

This past weekend I decided to use some extra LED's (and sockets) from my restore and light up the scoops and trap door. I think it came out pretty nice. Just adds a little polish.

Blue LED for the scoop
Red LED for the trap door
Orange/Amber for the mirror scoop/shot

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I like them and may copy you. I admit I copied you on your pop bumper lighting. But I had a significant problem with the lights shorting out on the metal rings.

I found a post somewhere where the person used hot glue on the bottom of the caps. I did this and it worked perfect. Initially I was worried you would be able to see glue. But once the cap was back in the game it is totally invisible.

Just a little experience that may help someone else.

no worries, copy away.

when i did the rings I started with hot glue but apparently not enough. one came loose (but did not short thankfully) and I had to re-do it. I'm glad I did though, love the LED rings for the pops.

I went with these for the pop caps. They snap in and they light really well.

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Thank you very much for the response. The restore was complete including new sleeves, but I don’t believe this coil has a new spring. I will check that. My initial feeling is angle, but I’ll investigate and report back.

Does anyone know where I can find the pop bumper funhouse decals? I have new covers, just need the decals to go on top.

Bay Area Amusement has them.

I got mine from PDI, but looks like they are out of stock. If BAA doesnt have any, you could buy these (the caps with the decals included):

ebay.com link: Williams Funhouse Pinball Machine Bumper Cap Set With Decals Free Shipping New

GL

does anybody that has done a funhouse restore know how many clear plastic posts it takes to replace them all?

I believe it is 16 double star posts, 2 single star posts and 13 spacer spools