(Topic ID: 64458)

Funhouse!? Club... (Fans welcome)


By mof

6 years ago



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  • 2,224 posts
  • 311 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 15 hours ago by yzfguy
  • Topic is favorited by 151 Pinsiders

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There are 2224 posts in this topic. You are on page 30 of 45.
#1451 1 year ago

Having a problem where the ball will exit the wire form to the right opening and landing on the sling plastic . I've tired to reposition where the wireform mounts but it hasn't helped. Anyone?

image (resized).jpeg

#1452 1 year ago
Quoted from mollyspub:

Having a problem where the ball will exit the wire form to the right opening and landing on the sling plastic . I've tired to reposition where the wireform mounts but it hasn't helped. Anyone?
[quoted image]

Only thing I could think of: maybe the ball is hitting the metal flap on the left side and bouncing out the right? I would pull the glass and hold a ball there to see.

#1453 1 year ago

I’m frustrated. I can’t for the life of me figure out why Rudy’s jaw will not move. I have tested the motor, checked the gears, checked for shorts in the wires, fuse f116, j126, and checked the high power driver board. The driver board does have a transistor that tests like it’s shorted at Q5, but when I replaced it with a different tip107 it reads the same. I’m thinking this is where the problem lies but am very limited in my knowledge to know better. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

#1454 1 year ago
Quoted from Scoot:

I’m frustrated. I can’t for the life of me figure out why Rudy’s jaw will not move. I have tested the motor, checked the gears, checked for shorts in the wires, fuse f116, j126, and checked the high power driver board. The driver board does have a transistor that tests like it’s shorted at Q5, but when I replaced it with a different tip107 it reads the same. I’m thinking this is where the problem lies but am very limited in my knowledge to know better. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I had an issue with Rudy’s jaw and it turned out it was the motor itself. Motor would work fine in test mode but under stress of game play it worked intermittently. Is this similar to your issue? Or does it not work at all? I messed around with driver board, gear crank, everything, but once I replaced motor I was good.

#1455 1 year ago
Quoted from arcadenerd925:

Only thing I could think of: maybe the ball is hitting the metal flap on the left side and bouncing out the right? I would pull the glass and hold a ball there to see.

Good advice here. I would add- use the slow motion video feature on your phone and watch why the ball is bouncing out. I had issues with the right plunger lane after my pf swap and I only was able to trouble shoot by watching the ball plunge in slo mo.

#1456 1 year ago
Quoted from mollyspub:

Having a problem where the ball will exit the wire form to the right opening and landing on the sling plastic . I've tired to reposition where the wireform mounts but it hasn't helped. Anyone?
[quoted image]

I would trim the plastic protector it looks like you have on there.

#1457 1 year ago
Quoted from mollyspub:

Having a problem where the ball will exit the wire form to the right opening and landing on the sling plastic . I've tired to reposition where the wireform mounts but it hasn't helped. Anyone?
[quoted image]

On mine, I have the blue rubber flush with the right hand side and the ball trajectory from the wireform hits dead-nuts in the middle. Yours looks like it is is flush against the left. Maybe try repositioning?

#1458 1 year ago
Quoted from arcadenerd925:

Only thing I could think of: maybe the ball is hitting the metal flap on the left side and bouncing out the right? I would pull the glass and hold a ball there to see.

I used the slow motion video as Elicash suggested and turns out you were correct! I slightly tweeked it and all is good. Rudy and I thank everyone who
Contributed !

#1459 1 year ago
Quoted from Elicash:

I had an issue with Rudy’s jaw and it turned out it was the motor itself. Motor would work fine in test mode but under stress of game play it worked intermittently. Is this similar to your issue? Or does it not work at all? I messed around with driver board, gear crank, everything, but once I replaced motor I was good.

Fixed it. Had to replace the high current driver board. I thought I checked everything on it but couldn’t find anything wrong. Someone had worked on the board previously so who knows what could have been done to it. I also ordered the motor too, not knowing for sure if it was behaving like elicash’s. The motor wires were soldered incorrectly too, since everything was backwards so it seems like the mouth was a problem for a while.

I will be doing a complete restoration in a few weeks so right now I’m calling it “Fugly Funhouse” until I can get the time and funds to get started. If anyone has any input or restoration tips specific to this pin I would greatly appreciate it.

#1460 1 year ago

Does Funhouse utilize the real time clock in the game? I have a battery holder that is giving me troubles and am thinking of putting a NVRam in it. I know some games like TZ and DH use the clock in game but I have never noticed anything with FH. There isn’t any secret midnight madness or anything like that?

#1461 1 year ago

No, it doesn't use the RTC.

#1462 1 year ago

I didn't think Rudy could get any more creepy until a few minutes ago.

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#1463 1 year ago
Quoted from CLEllison:

That scoop does break eventually - man made bound to fail. Mine did let go. It's not an overly expensive part and if it's dented up like you say it is just buy a new one. It'll last you the length of your ownership and then some. For loose screw holes, a quick fix is to just break off a toothpick flush with the hole and thread the screw back in. Just snug it up and not manhandle it. A less quicker fix is to glue the toothpick and when dry break it off flush and then screw it back in

Sometimes golf tees work better for larger holes too

#1464 1 year ago

Some before and after pics of the backbox restore over the weekend. Still needs a new translight but otherwise it’s good to go.

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#1465 1 year ago

Hello all you crazy Funhouse owners! I recently designed, printed and hand-painted some switch covers for Diner that are very popular. A friend suggested they would look great on the Funhouse step ramp. Well they do and they fit just great. I am selling a set of 3 for $30 + shipping. I will deliver to TPF for free. Shoot me a message if you're interested.

FH-Hotdog2 (resized).jpgFH-three (resized).jpg
#1466 1 year ago
Quoted from cadmium:

Hello all you crazy Funhouse owners! I recently designed, printed and hand-painted some switch covers for Diner that are very popular. A friend suggested they would look great on the Funhouse step ramp. Well they do and they fit just great. I am selling a set of 3 for $30 + shipping. I will deliver to TPF for free. Shoot me a message if you're interested.[quoted image][quoted image]

That's actually pretty funny!
Can you make them the the factory orange color?

#1467 1 year ago
Quoted from mollyspub:

That's actually pretty funny!
Can you make them the the factory orange color?

Maybe, I'd have to color match the ones from Diner. I went with red on those. The Funhouse blue was an easy match.

DinerHotdog (resized).JPG
#1468 1 year ago

For those who were looking for a replacement eyeball crank, I've started this project:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/3d-printable-eyeball-crank-project-for-funhouse-and-road-show#post-4894589

2019-03-15 21.17.20-cropped (resized).jpg
1 week later
#1469 1 year ago
Quoted from Scoot:

Some before and after pics of the backbox restore over the weekend. Still needs a new translight but otherwise it’s good to go. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Nice , can you supply all the gory details? I need to restore mine and would appreciate a description of how to proceed

#1470 1 year ago

Nearing completion of my cab resto. Redecal, made all the labels, new translite, new speaker panel, clean and polish all metal parts etc

IMG20190330204516 (resized).jpgIMG20190330204439 (resized).jpgIMG20190329104016 (resized).jpgIMG20190330204428 (resized).jpgIMG20190330231905 (resized).jpg

#1471 1 year ago
Quoted from embryon:

Nearing completion of my cab resto. Redecal, made all the labels, new translite, new speaker panel, clean and polish all metal parts etc
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Looks great, she's a beautiful pin when all dolled up is Funhouse.

#1472 1 year ago

It's alive and back on the line up

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#1473 1 year ago
Quoted from embryon:

It's alive and back on the line up[quoted image][quoted image]

Looking real good mate! Fits back in perfectly with your awesome lineup too.

#1474 1 year ago
Quoted from BoP:

Looking real good mate! Fits back in perfectly with your awesome lineup too.

Thanks very much

#1475 1 year ago
Quoted from beefzap:

Nice , can you supply all the gory details? I need to restore mine and would appreciate a description of how to proceed

Just read through some of the funhouse restoration threads. It's not that bad.

basically, document/take pics of all the wiring

unplug everything from the boards, remove the backbox

remove the boards, remove the metal piece behind the boards

remove the decals (some sand off, other heat-and-peel (or scrape)) heat and peel worked great for me.

sand sand sand, bondo, more sanding, more bondo, more sanding.

primer it, paint it, decal it.

put everything back together )

#1476 1 year ago
Quoted from arcadenerd925:

Just read through some of the funhouse restoration threads. It's not that bad.
basically, document/take pics of all the wiring
unplug everything from the boards, remove the backbox
remove the boards, remove the metal piece behind the boards
remove the decals (some sand off, other heat-and-peel (or scrape)) heat and peel worked great for me.
sand sand sand, bondo, more sanding, more bondo, more sanding.
primer it, paint it, decal it.
put everything back together )

That sums it up

#1477 1 year ago

Hey there, I am also nearing the end of my funhouse restoration.
Anyone knows where I could find Rudy's face?
Mine has a crack and as everything else will look new, I'd love to find a pristine one.

#1478 1 year ago
Quoted from Nihonmasa:

Hey there, I am also nearing the end of my funhouse restoration.
Anyone knows where I could find Rudy's face?
Mine has a crack and as everything else will look new, I'd love to find a pristine one.

Can try planetary pinball or Mr pinball in Australia

#1479 1 year ago
Quoted from embryon:

Can try planetary pinball or Mr pinball in Australia

Thanks.
Went to check their online stores but no luck unfortunately.

#1480 1 year ago
Quoted from Nihonmasa:

Thanks.
Went to check their online stores but no luck unfortunately.

Lots of parts not listed on Mr pinball website. Best off emailing directly and asking. Always been good when I have.

#1481 1 year ago
Quoted from Nihonmasa:

Thanks.
Went to check their online stores but no luck unfortunately.

Let me know if you find one, I’ve been looking too.

#1482 1 year ago

i am still in need of a set of Rudy's eyeballs and the white plastic linkage to move them right and left.........I know they are hard to find........but some Funhouse owner must have some stashed away

#1483 1 year ago
Quoted from BoP:

Lots of parts not listed on Mr pinball website. Best off emailing directly and asking. Always been good when I have.

Ok, mailed. We'll see

#1484 1 year ago
Quoted from zerbam:

i am still in need of a set of Rudy's eyeballs and the white plastic linkage to move them right and left.........I know they are hard to find........but some Funhouse owner must have some stashed away

I'm working on a 3D printed replacement for the eyeball crank. If you don't mind helping out with some beta testing/product development, I'd be happy to send you one in exchange for some feedback. Of course, I'll also send you updated versions as they become available. Alternately, if you've got access to a 3d printer, I can point you to the files.

If you're interested, let me know via PM and we can discuss details.

#1485 1 year ago
Quoted from Nihonmasa:

Hey there, I am also nearing the end of my funhouse restoration.
Anyone knows where I could find Rudy's face?
Mine has a crack and as everything else will look new, I'd love to find a pristine one.

Everyone every where is sold out on his front face and I believe jaw and eye balls as well. The last face I saw on eBay went for $250 (yeah no thanks). To fix the crack use an automotive grade plastic repair kit. Then sand it down and then take it to someone who does air brushing to redo the entire head. Then shoot it with a dusting of a dull/satin clear coat. My .02

#1486 1 year ago

Thanks I do the airbrushing myself, will check for the automotive plastic repair kit!
Thanks for the idea

Wondering ehy no one re-cast it if when ramps are home made...

2 weeks later
#1487 1 year ago

I have been in the process of restoring my funhouse and have the new CPR plastic set. There are a few plastics that were not found on the pin and do not know where they belong. Where do these belong?

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#1488 1 year ago

Doing the same and impatiently waiting on my Mirco Playfield as well.

The small 4 ones were promo stuff that you can chose to put here and there.

The large one, no idea.

1 week later
#1489 1 year ago

Funhouse fans - looking ideas on how to improve the action out of the scoop on my restored Funhouse if it's possible. I'm having a hard time getting a clean bounce pass as (I think) PL intended. Recently played one on location that behaved the same way. It will bounce from the right flipper to the left, but it's not possible to cradle as the ball doesn't make it quite far enough. Here are the things I can think of and suggestions would be appreciated:

* Cliffy installed could be slowing ejection down or changing the angle slightly?
* The plunger from the coil is original and could be slightly worn and affecting the speed/velocity?
* Flipper angle a touch too high?
* Rubber used? (standard rubber set, anything with better bounce action?)

FH (resized).JPG

#1490 1 year ago

tough one. Mine works as you noted (coming out of the scoop it will dead bounce off the right over to the left and I can cradle it). However, a friend also has one (with the same Mirco repro PF) and I cannot do the same dead-bounce-right-to-left-cradle. It's gonna either be one of two things: 1. velocity, 2. angle. You'd have to really look at the other one to see how yours is different.

If you think its velocity, when you did the restore, did you change that coils sleeve? clean it? new spring?

if you think its angle, i assume just loosening the scoop and giving it a slight tweak might do the trick (even the smallest twist could make a diff)

#1491 1 year ago

This past weekend I decided to use some extra LED's (and sockets) from my restore and light up the scoops and trap door. I think it came out pretty nice. Just adds a little polish.

Blue LED for the scoop
Red LED for the trap door
Orange/Amber for the mirror scoop/shot

20190502_211649 (resized).jpg20190503_215149 (resized).jpg
#1492 1 year ago
Quoted from arcadenerd925:

This past weekend I decided to use some extra LED's (and sockets) from my restore and light up the scoops and trap door. I think it came out pretty nice. Just adds a little polish.
Blue LED for the scoop
Red LED for the trap door
Orange/Amber for the mirror scoop/shot
[quoted image][quoted image]

I like them and may copy you. I admit I copied you on your pop bumper lighting. But I had a significant problem with the lights shorting out on the metal rings.

I found a post somewhere where the person used hot glue on the bottom of the caps. I did this and it worked perfect. Initially I was worried you would be able to see glue. But once the cap was back in the game it is totally invisible.

Just a little experience that may help someone else.

#1493 1 year ago
Quoted from Elicash:

I like them and may copy you. I admit I copied you on your pop bumper lighting. But I had a significant problem with the lights shorting out on the metal rings.
I found a post somewhere where the person used hot glue on the bottom of the caps. I did this and it worked perfect. Initially I was worried you would be able to see glue. But once the cap was back in the game it is totally invisible.
Just a little experience that may help someone else.

no worries, copy away.

when i did the rings I started with hot glue but apparently not enough. one came loose (but did not short thankfully) and I had to re-do it. I'm glad I did though, love the LED rings for the pops.

#1494 1 year ago

I went with these for the pop caps. They snap in and they light really well.

20190502_173531 (resized).jpg
#1495 1 year ago
Quoted from arcadenerd925:

tough one. Mine works as you noted (coming out of the scoop it will dead bounce off the right over to the left and I can cradle it). However, a friend also has one (with the same Mirco repro PF) and I cannot do the same dead-bounce-right-to-left-cradle. It's gonna either be one of two things: 1. velocity, 2. angle. You'd have to really look at the other one to see how yours is different.
If you think its velocity, when you did the restore, did you change that coils sleeve? clean it? new spring?
if you think its angle, i assume just loosening the scoop and giving it a slight tweak might do the trick (even the smallest twist could make a diff)

Thank you very much for the response. The restore was complete including new sleeves, but I don’t believe this coil has a new spring. I will check that. My initial feeling is angle, but I’ll investigate and report back.

#1496 1 year ago

Does anyone know where I can find the pop bumper funhouse decals? I have new covers, just need the decals to go on top.

#1497 1 year ago
Quoted from Scoot:

Does anyone know where I can find the pop bumper funhouse decals? I have new covers, just need the decals to go on top.

Bay Area Amusement has them.

#1498 1 year ago
Quoted from Scoot:

Does anyone know where I can find the pop bumper funhouse decals? I have new covers, just need the decals to go on top.

I got mine from PDI, but looks like they are out of stock. If BAA doesnt have any, you could buy these (the caps with the decals included):

ebay.com link » Williams Funhouse Pinball Machine Bumper Cap Set With Decals Free Shipping New

GL

1 week later
#1499 1 year ago

does anybody that has done a funhouse restore know how many clear plastic posts it takes to replace them all?

#1500 1 year ago

I believe it is 16 double star posts, 2 single star posts and 13 spacer spools

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There are 2224 posts in this topic. You are on page 30 of 45.

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