Quoted from arcadenerd925:Bout to start populating my new Mirco PF.
Question, after the trap door, where the clear plastic is screwed to the PF.. on the new PF, there are clearly dimples, but no real pilot hole. This ok? or should i drill some?
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When i did my swap i used a dremel with the router attachment and recessed the area where the trap door hinge mounts. By bringing the hinge down flush with the PF top surface you can eliminate the plastic altogether.
It has worked fine for years.
Quoted from BobLangelius:When i did my swap i used a dremel with the router attachment and recessed the area where the trap door hinge mounts. By bringing the hinge down flush with the PF top surface you can eliminate the plastic altogether.
It has worked fine for years.
You need the plastic. It is there to prevent soft shots from rolling backwards towards the trapdoor. I'm sure we have all had that trapdoor launch a ball into the glass. This greatly reduces it.
Quoted from arcadenerd925:Bout to start populating my new Mirco PF.
Question, after the trap door, where the clear plastic is screwed to the PF.. on the new PF, there are clearly dimples, but no real pilot hole. This ok? or should i drill some?
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I would drill small pilot holes. You don't want to mess up the clear coat. I think my new playfield had the holes drilled out. But I can't remember for sure!
Quoted from drummermike:I would drill small pilot holes. You don't want to mess up the clear coat. I think my new playfield had the holes drilled out. But I can't remember for sure!
DRILL!! for the love of god you have to drill a full hole. Just make sure it is not too loose. If you can’t tell by looking, then the holes were not drilled out.
Also you will need to Dremel out any areas which are routed, like for t-nuts, areas where a plastic lays into the playfield, etc
Quoted from arcadenerd925:Thanks guys, appreciate the input! I will def drill the pilot holes.
You don’t want cracks in the clear, they are impossible to fix, and they will eventually get worse. Ron kruzman sells a Dremel bit kit which has every size and shape you would ever need, it’s a lifesaver, especially given he does such a thorough job and so many coats of clear
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:You don’t want cracks in the clear, they are impossible to fix, and they will eventually get worse. Ron kruzman sells a Dremel bit kit which has every size and shape you would ever need, it’s a lifesaver, especially given he does such a thorough job and so many coats of clear
Yeah I bought the kit (even though he did not clear the mirco i bought) I also have a diamond burr dremel bit set as well. so my plan is clear the clear (heh) away from the dimples where the holes should be, then drill small pilot holes.
Quoted from arcadenerd925:Yeah I bought the kit (even though he did not clear the mirco i bought) I also have a diamond burr dremel bit set as well. so my plan is clear the clear (heh) away from the dimples where the holes should be, then drill small pilot holes.
You are good!
just joined the funhouse club with a playable project machine...i will have to get some pics of broken plastics that i need........the thing i need the most is rudy's face.....his upper lip is gone.....i know it is a hard piece to find....i am hopeful that someone has a used one for me.....the whole head needs repainting
Quoted from zerbam:just joined the funhouse club with a playable project machine...i will have to get some pics of broken plastics that i need........the thing i need the most is rudy's face.....his upper lip is gone.....i know it is a hard piece to find....i am hopeful that someone has a used one for me.....the whole head needs repainting
I have a full set of used plastics. I don't recall if any were broken. I'll dig it out later and take some pics if you want.
Quoted from zerbam:just joined the funhouse club with a playable project machine...i will have to get some pics of broken plastics that i need........the thing i need the most is rudy's face.....his upper lip is gone.....i know it is a hard piece to find....i am hopeful that someone has a used one for me.....the whole head needs repainting
How the face looks?
took rudy apart for his pictures........back of his head is cracked also......anyone have some spare parts......after removing these found that the linkage for the right to left eye movement is missing......i think marco has most of that
IMG_5469 (resized).JPGIMG_5470 (resized).JPGIMG_5471 (resized).JPGIMG_5472 (resized).JPGIMG_5473 (resized).JPGall of the parts for eye movement are available from marco.......but total $45 with shipping.........anyone have used parts?
Quoted from zerbam:took rudy apart for his pictures........back of his head is cracked also......anyone have some spare parts......after removing these found that the linkage for the right to left eye movement is missing......i think marco has most of that
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Not impossible, but won't be an easy fix for an expert.
Here is a quick pic of my leftovers from my restore. I also have ramps. I don't recall the condition of the ramps, but if anyone is interested I'll dig them out.
The game was fully playable before I tore it down, so they are at least usable. The plastic set should be complete. One or 2 are cracked. A few have some missing artwork, many are in great shape. A bunch of targets, posts, etc. PM me if you are interested in any of it and I'll take some better pics and work out a price.
Quoted from zerbam:took rudy apart for his pictures........back of his head is cracked also......anyone have some spare parts......after removing these found that the linkage for the right to left eye movement is missing......i think marco has most of that
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The front part of Rudy is pretty easy to find, and was reprod at one point. The back....not so much.
As for the replacement parts....shop around. Marco isn't the only game in town.
rudy will soon have his full face transplant thanks to pinsider weirpinball...........I will glue the cracks in the back side of his head from the inside and do some touchup painting.......what type of glue would work the best for that type of plastic?
Hi all -
(I hope this hasn't been discussed to death, I searched this thread and didn't find much)
I am going to be looking at a Funhouse shortly, and was hoping current owners might be able to chime in on what I should be looking at in order to avoid a nightmare.
Are there any game-specific issues that are instant grounds for rejection?
Anything that I should make sure has already been addressed?
Any fragile or weak parts that are uber-expensive or else downright unobtainable?
Thanks!
Hi all!
I'm having an issue recently where the trap door kicks way high and bounces off the lamp (and closes). If I put my finger between the door and the lamp it will stop at my finger and stay open. I've seen the 'help' regarding the tab underneath that can get bent, but I'm not sure that is the issue here. I'm not really sure where to start -- could this a voltage issue making the 'kick' stronger?
Quoted from Zablon:Hi all!
I'm having an issue recently where the trap door kicks way high and bounces off the lamp (and closes). If I put my finger between the door and the lamp it will stop at my finger and stay open. I've seen the 'help' regarding the tab underneath that can get bent, but I'm not sure that is the issue here. I'm not really sure where to start -- could this a voltage issue making the 'kick' stronger?
Not a voltage issue, the mech is probably worn and needs to be replaced.
Quoted from Zennmaster:Hi all -
(I hope this hasn't been discussed to death, I searched this thread and didn't find much)
I am going to be looking at a Funhouse shortly, and was hoping current owners might be able to chime in on what I should be looking at in order to avoid a nightmare.
Are there any game-specific issues that are instant grounds for rejection?
Anything that I should make sure has already been addressed?
Any fragile or weak parts that are uber-expensive or else downright unobtainable?
Thanks!
Mostly just the typical pin buying check list. Give the PF a good once over for damage, look at the condition of the boards (any hacks? etc), check for a credit dot, etc.
If it were me, I would be closely looking at the condition of rudy himself, run through the rudy test to make sure all his parts function (mouth opens, eyelids open normal, open wide, his eyes move left and right)
good luck
Quoted from arcadenerd925:Mostly just the typical pin buying check list. Give the PF a good once over for damage, look at the condition of the boards (any hacks? etc), check for a credit dot, etc.
If it were me, I would be closely looking at the condition of rudy himself, run through the rudy test to make sure all his parts function (mouth opens, eyelids open normal, open wide, his eyes move left and right)
good luck
Perfect, thank you!
Quoted from arcadenerd925:Mostly just the typical pin buying check list. Give the PF a good once over for damage, look at the condition of the boards (any hacks? etc), check for a credit dot, etc.
If it were me, I would be closely looking at the condition of rudy himself, run through the rudy test to make sure all his parts function (mouth opens, eyelids open normal, open wide, his eyes move left and right)
good luck
Scoop wear, functioning trapdoor.
Good advice with Rudy, but with the exception of the head shells, everything else involved with fixing Rudy is available, and restoring his operation isn't as difficult as the reputation says.
Quoted from dsuperbee:Scoop wear, functioning trapdoor.
Good advice with Rudy, but with the exception of the head shells, everything else involved with fixing Rudy is available, and restoring his operation isn't as difficult as the reputation says.
Yeah good point, the Rudy stuff wasnt meant as a litmus test to buy or not buy, just to make sure you are aware of the condition vs price.
Quoted from dsuperbee:Scoop wear, functioning trapdoor.
Good advice with Rudy, but with the exception of the head shells, everything else involved with fixing Rudy is available, and restoring his operation isn't as difficult as the reputation says.
Thanks for all the excellent advice. As it turns out, the game was pretty rough, not even considering the seller's bottom line, so I'm still on the hunt.
what would be the best glue to glue some cracks in the back of Rudy's head? They start at the mounting screw holes and go into his ears. ........figured I would glue from the inside
Quoted from zerbam:what would be the best glue to glue some cracks in the back of Rudy's head? They start at the mounting screw holes and go into his ears. ........figured I would glue from the inside
Maybe some five minute epoxy over some fiberglass mesh? You may want to test the epoxy on a descrete bit of the plastic first to make sure it won’t melt it.
Has anyone found a replacement for the trapdoor crank assembly (Williams part A-14160)? Mine is worn pretty flat.
bay area amusements has that http://bayareaamusements.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=GS-FHA14160
Quoted from zerbam:sorry just seen that they are currently out of stock
Everyone seems to be out of stock.
Guys, I have reached out to Pam at Pinbits 3 times with no reply. Trying again to see if anyone here has any ramp flaps? I really only need the one on the metal guide in the plunger launch lane.
Thanks!
Quoted from Elicash:Guys, I have reached out to Pam at Pinbits 3 times with no reply. Trying again to see if anyone here has any ramp flaps? I really only need the one on the metal guide in the plunger launch lane.
Thanks!
Did you try calling? she didnt respond to my email either.
Well i pulled all the chips out of their sockets, took a isopropyl alcohol pad and wiped them reinstalled them correctly waited about a minute turn the game on now there's no sound at all. Suggestions?
Quoted from Heaterguy:Well i pulled all the chips out of their sockets, took a isopropyl alcohol pad and wiped them reinstalled them correctly waited about a minute turn the game on now there's no sound at all. Suggestions?
Check to make sure the chips in your sound card are seated correctly. Sometimes when you remove and re-insert a chip, one of the legs can fold under the chip, and not make contact with the socket.
Quoted from uncivil_engineer:Check to make sure the chips in your sound card are seated correctly. Sometimes when you remove and re-insert a chip, one of the legs can fold under the chip, and not make contact with the socket.
Removed and reinstalled 2nd time, verified all pins are correct, still no sound. I am pretty sure my problem is in one of these sockets. Is it possible they are corroded down inside? The pins did not look bad however some of the sockets looked Dusty I wiped the socket surfaces but did not spray anything into the sockets not sure if that was a good idea. The reason I did this was because after initial power-up and getting the one dang I would play the game for 10 minutes and the sound would degrade and distort badly as it heated up. I haven't been able to find anything in the pinside knowledge base about distorting sound on a funhouse.
Quoted from Heaterguy:Removed and reinstalled 2nd time, verified all pins are correct, still no sound. I am pretty sure my problem is in one of these sockets. Is it possible they are corroded down inside? The pins did not look bad however some of the sockets looked Dusty I wiped the socket surfaces but did not spray anything into the sockets not sure if that was a good idea. The reason I did this was because after initial power-up and getting the one dang I would play the game for 10 minutes and the sound would degrade and distort badly as it heated up. I haven't been able to find anything in the pinside knowledge base about distorting sound on a funhouse.
Distorted sound could be any number of problems with the sound board. It is possible that a bad connection at one of the chips is not keeping the board from booting. With the chips in the board, you could use the wiring diagram to check for continuity between the legs of the chips, and the next component downstream on the board.
UPDATE.... after reseeding all the chips for the 4th time now the sound works perfectly and does not distort so far....fingers crossed...
Rudy's lips on my machine have taken a beating. Has anyone figured out the exact color red of the original that would match if I wanted to touch up the missing paint spots?
Quoted from wfumed2:Rudy's lips on my machine have taken a beating. Has anyone figured out the exact color red of the original that would match if I wanted to touch up the missing paint spots?
Even if you had the exact brand and color of the original paint, I don't think it would match. Reds in general are the worst for fading over time. I don't think you will be able to repaint the lips without doing some color mixing.
Quoted from uncivil_engineer:Even if you had the exact brand and color of the original paint, I don't think it would match. Reds in general are the worst for fading over time. I don't think you will be able to repaint the lips without doing some color mixing.
Ahhh gotcha. Thanks! Maybe I'll get him some Mr. Potato Head lips instead.
Quoted from zerbam:Looking for a few new or nice used plastics as shown..........and does anyone know where the big yellow rectangle goes?
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This is a good question... this part don't come with the plastic set... only sold separately
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