Quoted from Shredso:That's a weird looking Funhouse! Whirlwind has a different board set, but that connector is definitely toast and likely has to do with at least some of your problems.
Sorry sir, im deleting the post.
Quoted from Shredso:That's a weird looking Funhouse! Whirlwind has a different board set, but that connector is definitely toast and likely has to do with at least some of your problems.
Sorry sir, im deleting the post.
Quoted from pacman11:Okay just thought I’d mention this, but the eyes on my Funhouse are now working. I changed the batteries in my game after they went dead and now the eyes are working fine..
Sometimes you catch a break. Congrats
Quoted from pacman11:Lol, weird yesterday when I cleaned those connectors and tried the game out nothing change meaning it didn’t work. Now today when I started playing it his eyes started working. Who knows!
Check that the plates that the solenoids sit on aren’t loose, have the plastic centering spacers, and reflow the solder on the solenoid wires. Rudy’s head is less complex than you might think it is. Sometimes taking him apart and putting himback together will show you what the problem is. Also check to see that the springs are in the right direction
Quoted from pacman11:Now it’s working again.. weird
Anyone else feel that the 12 on the clock is not bright enough?
A friend suggested soldering an extra flex head led onto a flex head led to get more light.
Anyone else done this yet? I only had one flex led, which is installed on the lighted pic, and it did improve the appearance, but I suspect when I get another and solder them together it will fill the 12 out nicely
72F8D9A4-9441-48E7-BE66-F11D0D42504F (resized).jpeg93E0D528-B11B-4E0C-84AD-C7550C4DFE45 (resized).jpegCAC7E396-562C-4CDC-A350-8DFAAEC0EED6 (resized).jpegQuoted from Scroat:Anyone else feel that the 12 on the clock is not bright enough?
A friend suggested soldering an extra flex head led onto a flex head led to get more light.
Anyone else done this yet? I only had one flex led, which is installed on the lighted pic, and it did improve the appearance, but I suspect when I get another and solder them together it will fill the 12 out nicely
Awesome idea. Gonna try that this weekend. I will post pics when I'm done.
I was thinking it needed more light too. But adding another bulb never crossed my mind.
Thanks for the
Quoted from Scroat:Anyone else feel that the 12 on the clock is not bright enough?
A friend suggested soldering an extra flex head led onto a flex head led to get more light.
Anyone else done this yet? I only had one flex led, which is installed on the lighted pic, and it did improve the appearance, but I suspect when I get another and solder them together it will fill the 12 out nicely
This insert is too big for 1 led. Adding more brightness is not the right way, dual flex is the good solution.
I did the same in my Indiana Jones.
Dual flex head is available.
Quoted from erak:Awesome idea. Gonna try that this weekend. I will post pics when I'm done.
I was thinking it needed more light too. But adding another bulb never crossed my mind.
Thanks for the
Please post pics of where you added the additional bulb too. I’m not sure paralleling them as shown in Davi’s post is the right way since the insert we are trying to light is so long. When I do mine, I’m going to try adding the new wires higher up on the first flex bulb.
Also with the need to twist in the socket, it will take some creative bending to snake the flex bulbs in such that they’ll land properly in the insert.
Quoted from Scroat:Please post pics of where you added the additional bulb too. I’m not sure paralleling them as shown in Davi’s post is the right way since the insert we are trying to light is so long. When I do mine, I’m going to try adding the new wires higher up on the first flex bulb.
Also with the need to twist in the socket, it will take some creative bending to snake the flex bulbs in such that they’ll land properly in the insert.
This is how it looks in IJ.
20180721_190527(0) (resized).jpgQuoted from Davi:This is how it looks in IJ.
Very nice! I just noticed that Cointaker has the double flex where the bulbs are at different lengths
558D96C7-8798-4BEE-A50A-C0407E59A253 (resized).jpegQuoted from Scroat:Check that the plates that the solenoids sit on aren’t loose, have the plastic centering spacers, and reflow the solder on the solenoid wires. Rudy’s head is less complex than you might think it is. Sometimes taking him apart and putting himback together will show you what the problem is. Also check to see that the springs are in the right direction
As I was playing again the other day I noticed the eyes closing and seems like something is sticking a little by the eyes. Might have to take apart the eyes again to see if I messed something up.. But like I said it test mode everything works fine..
Quoted from Scroat:Very nice! I just noticed that Cointaker has the double flex where the bulbs are at different lengths
Before and after. Space is very limited, there is a flasher.
Need to move leds a bit back to reduce spot effect.
Quoted from Scroat:Very nice! I just noticed that Cointaker has the double flex where the bulbs are at different lengths
Right, you need something similar, 1 short, 1 long neck. I think this type is not good, a rotated one is required (this type lights up the lampcard, not the insert, you can't twist it by 180 degree).
Quoted from erak:Looks better in person. I just copied how the cointaker bulb was made.
Hard to take a pic in attract mode too.
But it's better than it was. I'm going to play around with it. And see if I can get it to be perfect.
We’re onto something! I wonder if 3 bulbs in parallel would work? Your 12 definitely looks better. I’m not sure why the CT bulb has one bulb reversed, but did you do that as well or did you flip ?
Quoted from Davi:Right, you need something similar, 1 short, 1 long neck. I think this type is not good, a rotated one is required (this type lights up the lampcard, not the insert, you can't twist it by 180 degree).
Can you explain why you think a rotated one is required? I’m not sure I understand your reply as you say this bulb is not good, but indicate that a rotated bulb is necessary, but the pic I posted shows a rotated bulb. Thanks for the help
Quoted from Davi:Before and after. Space is very limited, there is a flasher.
Need to move leds a bit back to reduce spot effect.
This is what I am after for the 12 insert.
Are you using orange bulbs for your 1,2,3,...11 inserts?
my opinion white look more original in those locations. I was disappointed in my LED kit that came with orange bulbs for those inserts, but that’s just my opinion. Too much orange in the center for me.
The white bulbs I put in make the Clock have more definition.
Quoted from Scroat:We’re onto something! I wonder if 3 bulbs in parallel would work? Your 12 definitely looks better. I’m not sure why the CT bulb has one bulb reversed, but did you do that as well or did you flip ?
Basically this.
IMG_20180721_225830869_LL (resized).jpgQuoted from Scroat:Can you explain why you think a rotated one is required? I’m not sure I understand your reply as you say this bulb is not good, but indicate that a rotated bulb is necessary, but the pic I posted shows a rotated bulb. Thanks for the help
See Erak's post #1067. The light direction is "up". If you bend CT led's, direction will be "down".
20180722_083006 (resized).jpgQuoted from Scroat:This is what I am after for the 12 insert.
Are you using orange bulbs for your 1,2,3,...11 inserts?
my opinion white look more original in those locations. I was disappointed in my LED kit that came with orange bulbs for those inserts, but that’s just my opinion. Too much orange in the center for me.
The white bulbs I put in make the Clock have more definition.
Yes, I have some orange. I am trying different led's at the clock (orange, warm white, cold white) to find the best. You are right, orange is too much.
Quoted from Scroat:This is what I am after for the 12 insert.
Are you using orange bulbs for your 1,2,3,...11 inserts?
my opinion white look more original in those locations. I was disappointed in my LED kit that came with orange bulbs for those inserts, but that’s just my opinion. Too much orange in the center for me.
The white bulbs I put in make the Clock have more definition.
I think I used orange on the outer and yellow on the inner circle.
Quoted from Davi:See Erak's post #1067. The light direction is "up". If you bend CT led's, direction will be "down".
True. But you could just bend the bulbs to face up. At the leads on the led boards base. You don't need to twist them.
Quoted from uncivil_engineer:Ok while working on my FH restoration, I came across something odd on my serial number decal. Anyone else have a 'low power' Funhouse?
[quoted image]
Mine is 8 amps...
20180727_133708 (resized).jpgQuoted from Davi:See Erak's post #1067. The light direction is "up". If you bend CT led's, direction will be "down".[quoted image]
I finally “fixed” my 12. I used three orange flex LEDs. You have to remove the clock Bulb panel to get the flex Bulbs oriented correctly, but it looks even better than the picture shows.
386FB2B2-E102-4D18-A442-D0EBDB5B800D (resized).jpeg6808593D-21BA-4DEF-9D74-A1E82168F37E (resized).jpegQuoted from Davi:See Erak's post #1067. The light direction is "up". If you bend CT led's, direction will be "down".[quoted image]
You just pull the bulbs out and re-orient them. They’re not polarity sensitive
Quoted from erak:True. But you could just bend the bulbs to face up. At the leads on the led boards base. You don't need to twist them.
Is the Cointaker version flexible enough, especially the short neck?
Quoted from Scroat:I finally “fixed” my 12. I used three orange flex LEDs. You have to remove the clock Bulb panel to get the flex Bulbs oriented correctly, but it looks even better than the picture shows.[quoted image][quoted image]
Nice setup!
Quoted from Davi:Is the Cointaker version flexible enough, especially the short neck?
Yup it is.
Quoted from Scroat:I finally “fixed” my 12. I used three orange flex LEDs. You have to remove the clock Bulb panel to get the flex Bulbs oriented correctly, but it looks even better than the picture shows.[quoted image][quoted image]
Is that solider station this?...
WLXY JM-508A Multi-functional LED Magnifying Glass
I gotta get one with a iron holder and light.
That's great! I use this.
Quoted from uncivil_engineer:Ok while working on my FH restoration, I came across something odd on my serial number decal. Anyone else have a 'low power' Funhouse?
[quoted image]
Mine is also 8 amps.
Quoted from Davi:Nice setup!
Thanks. These are cointaker LEDS. I’m happy with the result
Quoted from erak:Is that solider station this?...
WLXY JM-508A Multi-functional LED Magnifying Glass
I gotta get one with a iron holder and light.
That's great! I use this.
[quoted image]
I got mine at Harbor Freight. I believe it said “helping hands” on the box. I’ve had it for a couple years.
Quoted from adamross:Proud to finally be in the club!
[quoted image]
Welcome! nice lineup BTW
hey guys, any idea where i can find that part?
pasted_image (resized).png
is this that P/N#?
http://bayareaamusements.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=MX-02-4020
Hello to all, maybe someone can help me!!
The eyes of Rudy are not moving to the right, all the rest is ok.
Ive check the coils inside rudy and they all seam ok, is possible to measure if i have power on that J122
Maybe the coil responsable for moving the eyes to the right, is not receiving power..
Quoted from hisokajp:hey guys, any idea where i can find that part?
[quoted image]
is this that P/N#?
http://bayareaamusements.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=MX-02-4020
That is the correct part number, and good luck finding it. I've been looking for two of those for months; why nobody (looking at you, Marco) has reproduced such an easy-to-reproduce part is absurd.
Quoted from RGAires:Hello to all, maybe someone can help me!!
The eyes of Rudy are not moving to the right, all the rest is ok.
Ive check the coils inside rudy and they all seam ok, is possible to measure if i have power on that J122
Maybe the coil responsable for moving the eyes to the right, is not receiving power..
[quoted image]
Is fixed, just need to resolder one of the coils measure it with DC and at the end of the lug i was not receiving the correct voltage.
Quoted from izzy:You should be able to find them at Ace Hardware. I've gotten some in different lengths.
that's where i ended up picking up an aluminum spacer non threaded. The main issue with mine was that the previous screw was broken into the PF...
Hi guys, in the middle of a restore. Does anyone know about this strange rubber tape that the factory put under the ramp flaps? It appears to be about 1/16 " thick and it has double sided adhesive. The green is the adhesive backing that they didn't remove.
Does this serve a purpose? should I try to replace it under my ramp flaps?
rubber tape (resized).jpgQuoted from Elicash:Hi guys, in the middle of a restore. Does anyone know about this strange rubber tape that the factory put under the ramp flaps? It appears to be about 1/16 " thick and it has double sided adhesive. The green is the adhesive backing that they didn't remove.
Does this serve a purpose? should I try to replace it under my ramp flaps?
[quoted image]
There was a post from another Pinsider earlier about this. It is needed. I used 3M mounting tape and left on one side of the red plastic covering. The other side was removed to stick it down. I did this when I replaced the playfield recently.
Quoted from drummermike:There was a post from another Pinsider earlier about this. It is needed. I used 3M mounting tape and left on one side of the red plastic covering. The other side was removed to stick it down. I did this when I replaced the playfield recently.
Thanks. Any idea where this was posted about? Was it in FH thread or in another thread? Do you have a link for the 3M stuff you used? thanks.
Quoted from Elicash:Thanks. Any idea where this was posted about? Was it in FH thread or in another thread? Do you have a link for the 3M stuff you used? thanks.
It is in this FH thread. You can get the mounting tape at Walmart or Home Depot or Lowe's. I got 1/2" and 3/4" widths. I use it for many things in my pins.
Quoted from Elicash:Thanks. Any idea where this was posted about? Was it in FH thread or in another thread? Do you have a link for the 3M stuff you used? thanks.
I cannot find the earlier post here. I may be wrong. Do a Forum search for ramp padding. There are lots of posts to look at.
Quoted from Elicash:Thanks. Any idea where this was posted about? Was it in FH thread or in another thread? Do you have a link for the 3M stuff you used? thanks.
I'm in the same boat (might have been me that previously posted asking about it). I decided to just get this and cut down to size if needed:
https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=0500-9851
Thanks. On a related note - anyone know where I can buy the ramp flaps? Seems Pinbits is sold out and so is Marco Specialties.
Anyone have on hand that they would sell?
The problem I encountered was when I replaced my Funhouse ramps with repros the screws at the ramp flaps wouldn't hold the ramps down because the plastic is thicker.
Quoted from Elicash:Thanks. On a related note - anyone know where I can buy the ramp flaps? Seems Pinbits is sold out and so is Marco Specialties.
Anyone have on hand that they would sell?
Send them an email and ask. They were sold out when i tried to get mine but Cliffy gave me the tip to reach out and they ended up selling me a set.
Quoted from arcadenerd925:Quoted from Elicash:
Thanks. On a related note - anyone know where I can buy the ramp flaps? Seems Pinbits is sold out and so is Marco Specialties.
Anyone have on hand that they would sell?
Send them an email and ask. They were sold out when i tried to get mine but Cliffy give me the tip to reach out and they ended up selling me a set.
Pam has treated me awesome. I asked about out of stock TZ ramp flaps and she found a set that were opened and not perfect and sent them to me. I offered to pay and she wouldn't accept money because the package was opened at one time. They ended up being brand new and perfect.
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/funhouse-club/page/22?hl=erak and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.
Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.