Sorry sir, im deleting the post.

Sometimes you catch a break. Congrats

Check that the plates that the solenoids sit on aren’t loose, have the plastic centering spacers, and reflow the solder on the solenoid wires. Rudy’s head is less complex than you might think it is. Sometimes taking him apart and putting himback together will show you what the problem is. Also check to see that the springs are in the right direction

Anyone else feel that the 12 on the clock is not bright enough?

A friend suggested soldering an extra flex head led onto a flex head led to get more light.

Anyone else done this yet? I only had one flex led, which is installed on the lighted pic, and it did improve the appearance, but I suspect when I get another and solder them together it will fill the 12 out nicely

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This insert is too big for 1 led. Adding more brightness is not the right way, dual flex is the good solution.
I did the same in my Indiana Jones.
Dual flex head is available.

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Please post pics of where you added the additional bulb too. I’m not sure paralleling them as shown in Davi’s post is the right way since the insert we are trying to light is so long. When I do mine, I’m going to try adding the new wires higher up on the first flex bulb.

Also with the need to twist in the socket, it will take some creative bending to snake the flex bulbs in such that they’ll land properly in the insert.

This is how it looks in IJ.

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Very nice! I just noticed that Cointaker has the double flex where the bulbs are at different lengths

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As I was playing again the other day I noticed the eyes closing and seems like something is sticking a little by the eyes. Might have to take apart the eyes again to see if I messed something up.. But like I said it test mode everything works fine..

Before and after. Space is very limited, there is a flasher.
Need to move leds a bit back to reduce spot effect.

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Right, you need something similar, 1 short, 1 long neck. I think this type is not good, a rotated one is required (this type lights up the lampcard, not the insert, you can't twist it by 180 degree).

We’re onto something! I wonder if 3 bulbs in parallel would work? Your 12 definitely looks better. I’m not sure why the CT bulb has one bulb reversed, but did you do that as well or did you flip ?

Can you explain why you think a rotated one is required? I’m not sure I understand your reply as you say this bulb is not good, but indicate that a rotated bulb is necessary, but the pic I posted shows a rotated bulb. Thanks for the help

This is what I am after for the 12 insert.

Are you using orange bulbs for your 1,2,3,...11 inserts?

my opinion white look more original in those locations. I was disappointed in my LED kit that came with orange bulbs for those inserts, but that’s just my opinion. Too much orange in the center for me.

The white bulbs I put in make the Clock have more definition.

See Erak's post #1067. The light direction is "up". If you bend CT led's, direction will be "down".

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Yes, I have some orange. I am trying different led's at the clock (orange, warm white, cold white) to find the best. You are right, orange is too much.

I think I used orange on the outer and yellow on the inner circle.

Ok while working on my FH restoration, I came across something odd on my serial number decal. Anyone else have a 'low power' Funhouse?
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Mine is 8 amps...

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I finally “fixed” my 12. I used three orange flex LEDs. You have to remove the clock Bulb panel to get the flex Bulbs oriented correctly, but it looks even better than the picture shows.

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You just pull the bulbs out and re-orient them. They’re not polarity sensitive

Is the Cointaker version flexible enough, especially the short neck?

Nice setup!

Mine is also 8 amps.

Proud to finally be in the club!

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Thanks. These are cointaker LEDS. I’m happy with the result

I got mine at Harbor Freight. I believe it said “helping hands” on the box. I’ve had it for a couple years.

Welcome! nice lineup BTW

hey guys, any idea where i can find that part?
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is this that P/N#?
http://bayareaamusements.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=MX-02-4020

Hello to all, maybe someone can help me!!
The eyes of Rudy are not moving to the right, all the rest is ok.

Ive check the coils inside rudy and they all seam ok, is possible to measure if i have power on that J122
Maybe the coil responsable for moving the eyes to the right, is not receiving power..

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That is the correct part number, and good luck finding it. I've been looking for two of those for months; why nobody (looking at you, Marco) has reproduced such an easy-to-reproduce part is absurd.

You should be able to find them at Ace Hardware. I've gotten some in different lengths.

Is fixed, just need to resolder one of the coils measure it with DC and at the end of the lug i was not receiving the correct voltage.

that's where i ended up picking up an aluminum spacer non threaded. The main issue with mine was that the previous screw was broken into the PF...

Hi guys, in the middle of a restore. Does anyone know about this strange rubber tape that the factory put under the ramp flaps? It appears to be about 1/16 " thick and it has double sided adhesive. The green is the adhesive backing that they didn't remove.

Does this serve a purpose? should I try to replace it under my ramp flaps?

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There was a post from another Pinsider earlier about this. It is needed. I used 3M mounting tape and left on one side of the red plastic covering. The other side was removed to stick it down. I did this when I replaced the playfield recently.

Thanks. Any idea where this was posted about? Was it in FH thread or in another thread? Do you have a link for the 3M stuff you used? thanks.

It is in this FH thread. You can get the mounting tape at Walmart or Home Depot or Lowe's. I got 1/2" and 3/4" widths. I use it for many things in my pins.

I cannot find the earlier post here. I may be wrong. Do a Forum search for ramp padding. There are lots of posts to look at.

I'm in the same boat (might have been me that previously posted asking about it). I decided to just get this and cut down to size if needed:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=0500-9851

Thanks. On a related note - anyone know where I can buy the ramp flaps? Seems Pinbits is sold out and so is Marco Specialties.

Anyone have on hand that they would sell?

The problem I encountered was when I replaced my Funhouse ramps with repros the screws at the ramp flaps wouldn't hold the ramps down because the plastic is thicker.

Send them an email and ask. They were sold out when i tried to get mine but Cliffy gave me the tip to reach out and they ended up selling me a set.

Pam has treated me awesome. I asked about out of stock TZ ramp flaps and she found a set that were opened and not perfect and sent them to me. I offered to pay and she wouldn't accept money because the package was opened at one time. They ended up being brand new and perfect.