I have a problem with the lock on my FH. I lock the first ball no problem. THen when I shoot the second ball into the lock, Rudy says " you can have it back buster" but the lock never kicks out a ball. Then it goes into ball search and it shoots both balls out on the second round of ball search. This just started happening today. Worked okay before. I did move the pin in and out of a car. I don't think anything was loosened. Thanks

I would clean the opto switches, sounds like it isnt detecting the ball in position 2.

FH uses rollovers there, but yes, one is bad. Testing use the switch test in the menu, and test the switches with a ball to find the bad one.

Oh, I couldn't remember for sure, but I assumed they were optos, regardless like you said switch is bad.

Awesome. Thanks guys. This will be a good project for the weekend since it is raining

I tested the switches. They all seem to work. I tested with a MM and when I closed them there was continuity. I could not figure out how to test the switches with a ball. I went into test mode then rolled 2 balls into the lock. I could not tell by the menu if the switches were working or not. No difference between the working switch (25) or the bad switch (27) according to the test menu. Nothing really happenewd when the ball rolled over either of the switches. I am sure it is user error.

You have to roll a ball through the passage while in the switch test. You may need to adjust the wire from the sound of it, if your finger can activate the switch.

Was changing some leds today and realized I've never cleaned under the Inserts. Took a while but wow what a difference it makes. 20170510_214013 (resized).jpg20170510_214918 (resized).jpg20170510_225947 (resized).jpg20170510_234001 (resized).jpg

Also added some Silverjet super shinny balls (thanks 2 Tommy @ Nitro) and I can't believe the difference they make. It's playing like a whole new game.
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I have scanned the original funhouse operations manual (part number: 16-50003-101) in 600 dpi, and I have cleaned it page-by-page thoroughly in photoshop so that the pages & mostly the schematics are readable.
Problem is Ipdb.org has a filesize limit of 50 mb and my file is 818 mb :S
Where can I upload the cleaned 600 dpi manual so that people can finally read its schematics?

Maybe create a dropbox for it or use one of those more sketchy file sharing sites?

The point is for everyone to be able to find the file easily. Ipdb is the first stop everyone is going to look for it. If I post a link here, it will be lost in the many pages of posts.
I tried compressing or decreasing the dpi (and the filesize also) but the schematics become unreadable even if I oversharpen the letters

Can you compress only the text parts and keep schematics at original resolution?

No text parts in pdf, only scanned and cleaned images. I don't trust the OCR in acrobat and I'm certainly not going to correct all these pages of text after OCR pass

Had to put a new coil on my Funhouse. Played a few games and shut it off. Now when I turned it on I'm not getting any lights or coils working at all. The led 5 is not lighting up. All fuses good.
So question one: Are my wires on the coil right?
And question two: Where to start to find out what's wrong. Never worked on this system before.

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Your blue-yellow & blue-violet wires seem to be connected correctly. I can't see the EOS switch wires from your photos though. Maybe upload a photo or two that we can see the diodes on the coil and the eos switch cables connections.
LED 5 is supposed to be ON always (flash-lamps power led).
Is there anything working on your machine now when you turn it on? (sounds, display, menu switches etc) If test menu works, go in there and run all tests

The game still boots with sound. I've went into test and coils and lamps don't work.

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The middle blue wire on the coil goes into the shorter EOS leaf closes to the coil. The other blue wire that is connected with the blue/violet wire goes to the longer EOS leaf.

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your wire connections are correct (I would still check them with dmm just to be sure).
If all lamps and all solenoids are off, then it has to be the power driver board (or the power driver and the cpu).
Check all power driver fuses again, especially F111 (which is responsible for LED 5)

If fuses are OK, then start reading here and run the tests mentioned there:

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Solenoid.2C_Flasher.2C_and_Motor_problems

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Lamp_problems

Can you zip the whole thing? curious to see how much that saves. you could also just upload it to a free file sharing service and then just paste the link. (oops, i see someone else already suggested this)

I am curious to check this out myself as the person who sold me mine could not find the manual.

For those of you who use LED's on the inserts. What do you use? I know FH doesnt do much dimming (attract and i think during one part of the game?) so I wasnt sure if LED-OCD was needed here.

Curious to get others thoughts.

Also, need to replace a handful of playfield plastics. I may just end up having to buy a repro set, if anyone else is looking for plastics and would be interested in going in on a set (depending on what we both need of course) let me know.

On the contrary, FH has G.I. dimming during midnight multiball (and other circumstances) which is vital to the game. I was lucky enough to have minimum flickering & ghosting with Non-ghosting leds (smd 5050). Others say that the ghosting in FH is the worst they've seen. If you are going to spend 150 on a board, buy the G.I. OCD (not the LED OCD) and buy only non-ghosting leds for lamp matrix.

Which plastics do you need? I have some original ones in good condition after I bought a nos set.

about the manual: I 7-zipped it and it still takes up 700 mb... I'll p.m. you when I upload it somewhere

Can I get a link to the manual also.

About to join the club!
Any common issues I need to know about or must have mods to add?
Thanks in advance

Does anyone sell the lamp shade cover with "Funhouse" etched in it any more? I would love to pick one up. Thanks.

try pam at pinbits.com

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1080-the-mod-couple/00820-funhouse-pinball-custom-lamp-shade-give-rudy-some-love

I bought some non-ghosting LEDs for my Funhouse but you could still see flickering. I ended up installing a non-ghosting version of the ROM and then the flickering went away.

Thanks, I am going to try these LED's from comet for the inserts: "ULTIMATE OPTIX - NO GHOST, NO FLICKER, LESS STROBING" http://www.cometpinball.com/category-s/1837.htm and may try a few in the GI to see how they do, and if needed, grab the GI OCD board. appreciate the input.

Will look more closely at the plastics to come up with a map of what i needed.

I have been trying to contact Pam at Pinbits. No response for a month. Does anyone know how to get in touch with her?

Did try you calling? If she doesn't answer my emails I call the number on the website. She's always answered the phone and been very helpful. Just remember that she's on Pacific time!

Never thought I'd actually be able to join the club, but it happened!!!! Found this right in my back yard. Needs a good shop job. GI connector is burned out but the boards look great with no damage. It's a re-import from the Netherlands (apparently) but has already been converted back to US outlets.
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Looks good, congrats on the pickup!

I just pulled apart and cleaned the parts of the mystery mirror, so this is on my mind -- What LEDs are you guys using in the mirror?! And did you go color-match LEDs or keep the rubber covers? (Or both)

Cointaker premium frosted in the same factory colors.

I'm getting some bounce outs in the ball lock, what is the adjustment that needs to be made to keep the ball from going all the way through?

Thx

There's a cam shaped barrier which holds the balls in the lock. Over time it gets bashed and mis shapen and the balls can sneak round the back of it. Mine does it loads. You can buy a new one or try and adjusting it round a bit. But I'm pretty sure it's a STEPS ramp off job to get access. Not sure you can adjust it from beneath but I'll stand corrected on that

Thx, do you know the part number on it? Is ii the big metal piece I see from the top? Ramp off is not a big deal.

It's this thing. Part number in description

IMG_7204 (resized).PNG

if you are a purist (like myself) you'll keep the coloured covers I found out that "fluted dome" leds work well (a bit stretched though...) with these covers, just make sure to buy 2-smd fluted dome leds if you use super brights on your playfield.

part number A-14151. This whole mech is working EXACTLY like a flipper mech, so adjust it just like you would adjust the flippers

I'd like the foreign (european) stickers and labels of this machine, if you ever decide to remove them

I will see what all is on there. I'm picking the game up tomorrow, so maybe there are some salvageable things.

I use Comet 2 smd frosted.

Extra ball red
Million orange
Bumpers purple
Superdog red
Steps blue
2 ball mball green

Mine was doing the same thing. When I tore it down I noticed a pitted/groove in the top of the metal wheel. The ball was just hopping right over it. I just glued a little 1/4" tab on top (can't see it) and haven't had a problem since.

TIP30C used in a Funhouse for coils. What package size is it? I'm guessing a TO-247? Is this correct?

Good find pahuffman! I bought mine in Oxford, AL about a dozen years ago. I'm down 280. Good luck with your Funhouse! Looks like you scored a CV and TOM. Well done!

Hey Guys, does anyone by any chance have the back of Rudy's head they could part with. Missed placed mine and finding it hard to find a replacement.

Thanks guys in advance

I have one but I'm in Australia. If you can't source one locally, feel free to PM me.

I have 1 too but also in Australia lol

Don't have an extra Rudy, and I'm not in Australia, but I love the AFL! I DVR 3-4 matches each week.

Nice to know there are at least a couple more in Birmingham!

Take up,the Aus guys on their offer. Those are hard to find.