I can't help with the volume issues, but can say that series connected speaker setup is a pain.

I had two of the speakers dead, so no sound. I removed all factory speakers and went with two new 5.25" for the backbox and connected them in a new circuit with an L-pad attenuator. Less than $60 total and I have good speakers now. Still need to add a woofer and crossover.

Speakers still work via the coin door volume controls though, so whatever problems you have with that not working would still be an issue.

I rebuilt two of those sound boards this week, and working on a third now. There is a thread here somewhere with a parts list to rebuild a WPC nonDCS sound board. Replacing those has fixed the first two boards so far. The 4700uf Caps, tantalum caps, and voltage regulators are a good place to start.

Your FH is a Sample - and has a System 11 sound setup. There's a little knob inside the cabinet to adjust volume.

Another question for FH fans please.

The start button light does not work, the button itself works starting the game. I changed the 555 bulb. I also reseated all the connectors behind the switch. Now I am looking at the lamp matrix in the manual. The cabinet start button is 88 with Yellow Gray wire on the column 8 and Red Gray wire on the Row 8. J137 is column 8 and J133 row 8. Does this information help me in some way? I am new to this electrical stuff.
Thanks for your help.

Yay figured it out. My friends pinball had the bridge rectifier on the main power board shorted out internally and a diode shorted on the sound board. R&Rd them and now her game works great! Creepy game, but fun.

Hi to all funhouse pinball fans! Let me join the club with a simple question that I have searched to find an answer for a long time (no answer by now unfortunately )

I want to ask about the x-over wire ramp (upper wire ramp - A-13896). Where t.h. does the rubber bumper pad go and what is the size of this bumper pad???

Facts I've realised until now:
(1) In Williams' Red Parts Book it appears that the bumper pad is located on the side - not against the ball's route! But the bumper pad for this particular wire ramp is not listed with part number (the bumper pad of the other wire ramp IS listed with part number)
http://www.planetarypinball.com/reference/partsmanuals/WMS_Parts_Red_16-9190-B/index.html#/348/
(2)In funhouse "parts list.txt" from ipdb, this bumper pad is not even listed!!! On the other hand, the bumper pad of the other wire ramp IS listed!
(3)After searching for a photo of this wire ramp online, I found out that this bumper pad can be either in the side or against, and it varies in size and colour. It seems that everyone is putting a bumper pad wherever they think, and not where the manufacturer suggests
(4)On the original pinball flyer (back page) this bumper pad seems to be located against the ball's route (so Red Book and Flyer disagree with each other...)

Can someone shed some light in this mystery about the part number and location of this bumper pad (if it exists)?

Thank you!

Is there a reason why in free play mode Rudy says "Hey Bucko, play again" but doesn't in credit mode? You'd think it was the other way around and he'd taunt you to insert more money?

On mine it's located on the bottom. My guess is its to prevent the ball from dropping directly onto the inline switch slot, avoiding wear. The bumper pad is generic, see http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/23-6629 .

-E

I would love to see pictures of where people have the pad. Mine is at the left end of the wire form and my ball will routinely bounce back and end up spinning down into the inlane rather than the steps plunger. I'll take a pic when I get home

My post sleeves are in need of replacement post haste. what colors/brand do you guys use?

Titan pinball has awesome posts and color selection. Color matching the pf and posts looks good. I'm waiting to get another game home before placing a order myself.

yeah i was thinking of trying to color match the sleeve to the PF location, or just get blue. was curious to see what others have done.

I am about to do a Playfield swap & total makeover on mine. It needs a lot of help. I always go super-bands on sleeves & flipper rubber. They are forever,great color selection,too. On FH, I am going blue, looks good.

Saw this today on CL and i couldn't help but post it. Rudy is thinking to himself "I'm not happy with you now!"

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I ordered a set of FH insert decals from Classic Arcade that appear to be the right ones. They are printed on white paper,but,are peel & stick, clear with black, except for the steps. I can send pictures if anyone is interested. I never used them because I decided to go with a Playfield swap. I paid $45, they are for sale. At $20+$5 shipping. PM if interested.

Cliffys! Support a local pinball guy, he's only about 30mins away.

That works, didnt realize he made/sold post sleeves, need to order several cliffys anyways. thnx!

Hi guys! Another tough question about FH pinball, CPU board related this time.

I live in Europe, and my FH was set for German language (Jumper W18 out). I wanted to change that and have my FH set for English/European language.

I saw this guide on pinwiki, and I moved jumper W16 to jumper W18, so that Jumper W16 is out (see picture below under "Europe):

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:WPCCountryCodeJumperTable.jpg

After I did that, I noticed in the FH manual under "funhouse jumper chart" that W16 out (For "Europe" setting) and W15 out (for "Spanish" setting) was missing!!!! (see picture below):

http://www.planetarypinball.com/reference/gamemanuals/Fun_House_Wms/index.html#/2/

So my question is this:

Is my game going to work with "europe" setting if I leave W16 jumper out?
Moreover, Is there a "european/english" setting available for funhouse pinball in general?

(I'm asking because the official manual suggests that only American OR French OR German are available...)

Bump!

I really would like to know about "language" jumper settings for Europe in a German machine (before I turn it on), if someone else has already run into the same situation as me...

btw, before I archive some official labels from this German funhouse I'd like to share some scans I've made (let me know if I break any rules by posting scans...). Here are the original "16-50003-1-Ger" and "16-8983-5" cards:

16-50003-1-Ger.jpg

16-8983-5.jpg

never saw this before !

Hey funhouse fans,
Rudy is having a hard time! Recently, when I turn it on it powers off and then restarts again. Often doesn't even make it therough the self tests before rebooting itself.

Is this the dreaded Williams reboot glitch I've heard about? It has a rottendog power board in it, so I'm not sure what to think. Any ideas?

Go to pinwiki and read the reset info. I'd start by unplugging j101 and 102 and then plugging them back in. Resets are.common and inevitable, don't fret.

Ok. Thanks. Fretting averted. I'll read up. I knew there was a resource available.

Long-awaited IPB playfield swap underway...

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You'll have to tell me how it goes. I have a playfield in storage for it but am very intimidated.

Has anyone added scoop lighting? I was messing around with some ideas last night. I intended on putting orange in the Mystery Mirror scoop, but it didn't pop enough. Maybe orange isn't a good color for scoop lighting, 2nd time I've tried and failed with orange. I had a green strip, doesn't necessarily match anything, but it looks cool and it's bright. I have it tied to the Mirror Value insert. The only problem is it lights up the wear on the scoop. I had a hard time getting in there to buff it, might just buy a new one from Mantis so they match.

I'm not sure what to do on the lower right scoop. It doesn't really award anything. I could just tie it to GI. Any ideas?

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As with most any playfield swap the hardest part is the wiring harnesses. With the repro playfield you also need to prep the mounting and post holes (drill and nail sets) to prevent cracking/separating of the clearcoat. Otherwise it's slow and careful every step of the way. Clean everything you can as best you can, and don't settle for reinstalling worn parts; replace them now while you can.

I'm going to light both lower scoops. The right steps hole with a blue and I think color changer in the left scoop.

I do it on all my games, and agree about orange. I've always had best luck with blue, red, or green.

I'd like to see installation from the bottom if anyone has done it and pics lit up from the top.

Just picked up a FH - drove 650 miles one way from MI to NY to get it. Great game! Parlaying on Shredso's request for picks can someone advise is there a thread how to install these and what types of lights to use? I am not a super high tech guy but did put in trough, speaker and under cab lighting so have some ability but still in a early learning curve for mods/repairs. Thank you!

If you use Comet they have a matrix line. Very easy, no soldering. You can either go with a strip or socket and bulb to light scoops. There's a gi bulb behind the mirror that's perfect to steal from for strip lighting on the ramps and backboard. Nice thing about funhouse is under both instruction cards is a gi bulb to link from. I'm lighting my trough, adding spotlights with Comets magnum bulb from just one of instruction cards. Will post pics when complete.

Thanks a lot!

I didn't light my scoops yet, but did do the backboard and trough.

http://lermods.com/t/funhouse-pinball-mods

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Anyone else find lighting the lanes hard in this game? Haven't found a color I like so just stick with Comet's 2smd bright whites. I'm thinking of trying dual flex to throw some light in 2 directions. Thoughts?

Use the yellow. You don't want a stronger coil because the shots are so close from upper flipper could easily cause damage with orange coil. Just my thoughts

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Question about the rubber grommet that holds the glass, down on the apron

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/23-6313-1

Which side goes up & which side goes down? I see photos all over the internet - others have the bulky flat on top and others have the little round on top....

Larger side up.

What is a fair price for a 100% working Funhouse? It has raised inserts with wear, nice cabinet. Rudy works great, new display, new cpu. Thanks.

I would say $3500-$4000 max

My Funhouse was converted from European to American Wiring. Initially all they did was twist the wires together and put electrical tape over the connections. The machine worked fine. Yesterday I soldered the connections and put shrink wrap over it. Now it doesn't work. I thought I made the same connections. The machine worked perfectly before I tried to make it look better by soldering the connections.
Here is a picture of the soldering I did with arrows at the connections.
Can someone tell me if I made the wrong connections?. Also where in the manual doesn't show the schematics for the transformer? Thank you very much

IMG_2640 (resized).JPG

Thanks, that is about what I was thinking.

Thank you!

Your wiring looks a little dicked up. If it was my machine, I'd repin the wires on the transformer side of the plug, which you can do by matching the colors to the stubs that were left in there. Your black and white wiring looks wrong on the other side. Two black wires coming out and the white wire is going somewhere else. Here are photos of my wiring for reference and pics from the manual.

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Thanks Beelz. I appreciate the help. Looks like a weekend project.

I've had my playfield swapped for at least 3 years now. I've noticed and complained (maybe even in this thread) about my left gangway not lighting correctly when going through the roll over lane that should light it. I figured it was a software issue.

While playing last night I noticed that the mirror would light when going through the "light gangway" lane. I've had the two rollover switches reversed for over 3 years now! What an idiot! Swapped them around, and hey, what do you know? The left gangway is lighting correctly now.

Dang. Like me removing all ghosting leds only to find I had one socket wired backward....

Hopefully picking one up on May 21. Fingers crossed.