(Topic ID: 117624)

Funhouse (blue) Flasher issue - Help

By phuping

9 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 15 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 years ago by lukex
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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#1 9 years ago

Hi all,

I recently picked up a Funhouse and have started going through and cleaning it up. I am trying to learn as I go without making expensive mistakes.

None of the flashers were working and the fuse at f111 was obviously blown. After replacing the fuse and powering on the blue flashers lit up brightly and stay lit. All of the other flashers tested fine (clock, dummy, superdog, red, and white).

I thought it may be a bridged/crossed connection on one of the blue flashers. Well, visual inspection to my untrained eye didn't reveal anything.

Any help or guidance is appreciated.

#2 9 years ago

Sounds like one of the transistors on the boards is locked on, causing your flashers to stay on. Pull a manual at ipdb.org and find which transistor drives that flasher - then test it with a meter. Pretty easy fix if you can solder. PM me which flasher it is and I will tell you which transistor to look for if you need help.

#3 9 years ago

Thanks DocRotCod! I'll be testing the transistor today. Hopefully that's the issue and within my skills to fix.

#4 9 years ago

Yup. You'll find the TIP-102 that drives the blue flashers shorted, in all probability.

If the flasher still has the 906 or 89 lamp in it (i.e. not LED), don't leave it on for any length of time as it will melt the blue flasher cover(s).
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

#5 9 years ago

The blue flashers are controlled by transitor Q42. You might also want to check out Q41 too.
I've had my battles with funhouse flashers before lol.

#6 9 years ago

Should you attack this on your own, be careful. Practice makes perfect and practicing on good boards that you depend on is not advised.

Here's the easiest newbie method...
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Desoldering_Printed_Circuit_Board_Through_Hole_Components
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

#7 9 years ago

I have this exact same problem with mine. Good thread.

#8 9 years ago

Thanks for the additional information Chris and phillymadison - very helpful (saved my inserts ).

I located the TIP102 at Q42 and followed this test (from pinball rehab):

"NPN transistors, left lead is base (i.e. - TIP102, TIP120, TIP121, TIP122, 2N6045 and SE9302 )*

Put the DMM's red lead on the left leg of the transistor*.
Test to the middle leg and the right leg with the black lead.
You should get a reading between .3 - .9 volts on each (the two reading should be about the same).
Put the black lead on the left leg of the transistor.
Test to the middle leg and the right leg with the red lead.
Your DMM should read open on each.
Test across the middle and right legs, you should get an open reading.
Reverse leads on the middle and right legs, you should get an open reading.
* Orient the transistor with the metal tab facing away from you and the leads pointing down."

The results of my testing were wildly inconsistent (ranging from open to .290), even when I test against other TIP102s on the same board. My DMM works as expected when testing other transistors (NPN with center base).
Anything I am obviously doing wrong from the directions above or advice on testing the TIP102?

Thank you.

#9 9 years ago

If the others are testing as expected, and the one in question is not, and the results are varied, I think you've nailed the culprit.

#10 9 years ago

Terry's (pinball rehab) test technique is different. It's not wrong, but try this method, comparing results between like transistors.

NPN TO-220 package (TIP-31C, TIP-32C, TIP-41C, TIP-102, TIP-122, MJE15030, 2N6043)
Place the black lead of your DMM on the metal tab of the transistor
Probe each of the flanking legs with the red lead
.4 to .6 volts is a normal reading. Readings outside of this range indicate a failed transistor
Probe the center leg with the red lead
A "short" should be seen. If not, then the transistor has failed.

I'm fairly sure you'll find that the transistor is shorted.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The new place for pinball repair info

#11 9 years ago

OK - I finally confirmed that the TIP-102 at Q42 is bad (as suspected). I do have a lot to learn.

I have had some PCB soldering experience, but am going to approach replacing this with caution.

Thanks again for all the input.

#12 9 years ago

Good deal.
Take your time. Measure twice, cut once, that sort of thing.
Follow the newbie technique I posted above.
If you have any kind of PCB work experience at all, you'll be able to handle it.
--
Chris Hibler CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://ww.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

#13 9 years ago
Quoted from phuping:

OK - I finally confirmed that the TIP-102 at Q42 is bad (as suspected). I do have a lot to learn.
I have had some PCB soldering experience, but am going to approach replacing this with caution.
Thanks again for all the input.

Let us know how it turns out.

2 weeks later
#14 9 years ago

Update:

I took my time with this, labeled all the connections coming off the power driver board and removed the board. I carefully removed the TIP-102 following the instructions from PinWiki and desoldered the remaining legs.

Cleaning up the through holes was a real challenge for me - I only have a simple solder sucker, but between that and some solder wick I managed. I'm sure with experience it gets easier, but with this being such a pita I'm planning on investing in a Hakko FR300.

Soldering in the new component was simple enough.

Putting the board back in and powering up...moment of of truth: Game still plays and all the flashers with the exception of the blue flashers work. The blue flashers are no longer constantly on, but they don't light up either. I checked individual bulbs, but just those darn blues aren't lighting up.

So, I'm not really back where I started, but still working on it.

#15 9 years ago

Sounds like you may have lost some continuity at Q42. Time to get your DMM out and buzz out looking for issues of through and across board continuity. Also, you may have cold solder joints?

It will be a simple fix but Chris was right when he said you need to be careful when working on these boards.

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