I'm also wondering if you can use the original backglass?! I have a dam near perfect og backglass with an awesome M3X mod (3hr install) that looks so good I can't part with it. That would be the very unfortunate deal breaker for me.

I'm not sure about everyone else, nit picking aside, but I can't wait to drop this in my FH and play it backwards and forwards!!

This looks MUCH better...keep them coming; please.

Funhouse 2.0 is awesome and so is the o.g. Funhouse on it.

It's fun, challenging, hilarious, and mind blowing with the new out of this world graphics and sound. The voice also incorporates extremely well for anyone on the fence like I was.

Pedretti Gaming and Co. are working relentlessly to get this 2.0 upgrade as close to polished and perfect the first time...and they are taking each and every suggestion from this forum and their beta testers to heart. They are very passionate for pinball and this upgrade.

If you love Funhouse...stay patiently excited because in the end this will not disappoint.

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No. I am a Funhouse enthusiast and beta tester. I am being honest, sincere, and sharing how the current state of it is the best I can; personally.

I am completely with you and understand EXACTLY what you mean. I am by no means trying to "hype" anything up. I am sharing with you what I am able to at this point<<<. I believe it is better to have something than nothing isn't it?!? I did what I could and I hope you understand where I am coming from too. I am looking forward to the forthcoming gameplay videos as well...as soon as I can.<<<

Yes...Pa here.

I suppose I will chime in and simply say hello first

I'm not a spokesperson for anyone...just a hard working beta tester for this. I have put in 100+ over the last 2 1/2 weeks; as I'm sure the other beta testers have as well. I'm happy to report, that I; and the amazing Funhouse (and Rudy) held up against all odds.

It was 'good' when we received our kits, but we (know the game inside-out/code/electronically..etc like you too) won't settle for anything less than almost perfect because neither should you.

Every suggestion all of you have made on this post has been taken to heart.

It would be much easier to pay for a finished/polished product than want it just as bad as I/we do, than also have to work and wait for it too. So, relax and get yourself a hot dog. We all have your backs.

Pedretti Gaming and Co. is listening to all of you and all of us. Once you get this kit you will see why! Maybe they jumped in the deep end too fast / maybe they didn't?!?

They have the same intentions in the end, as all of us did when we first saw the promo video, for all of us.

Does anyone honestly want this sort of rejuvenation of an old school fkn awesome pin to go away? I don't, anyway, and will continue to work tirelessly for it to keep going and give them a chance/hard time until it's a golden egg....and have...smfh....patience.

Everyone who put his/her name on the 'waitlist' by entering their email, is on the list to get their kit asap (as soon as possible<<btw). This is not necessarily a limited run, but the initial demand will meet as close to the initial supply as possible (from what I know), and keep going as long as there's a demand.

I am absolutely exhausted and need to sign off for now bc of non-pin related things...too. I sincerely hope I helped answer some of your questions/concerns. Post away and I will hopefully be able to chime back in tomorrow evening and help/give some heads-up the best I can.

"Give care" till then.

So, I don't like to chime in on here unless it is meaningful, honest, and straight to the point

I'm not a hype-guy (nor do I like that), getting paid for anything, paid for this kit myself, and am just a dedicated beta tester working tirelessly with other beta testers and Pedretti and Co. to get the a gameplay video to you yestermonth

You wouldn't believe how nit-picky us beta testers have been about everything through developing this. Yw

Again, Pedretti and Co. have open ears, took all comments on here and us seriously. We have worked through many MANY little bugs/suggestions together (especially including yours) successfully. Every little "issue" that has came up has been solved quickly and will be in the future with updates. Pedretti and Co. are patient and sincere

I have been shooting gameplay videos relentlessly for the last week ahead of time (because I know how close we are); for you all to see/hear it as perfectly as possible for everyone to have the best video quality (sound/lighting/framerates/etc). Pedretti and Co. (us too) feel that this shouldn't be a professional shoot, but rather an honest and raw gameplay video <<< like you all suggested. I feel zero pressure smh

Again, not a hype guy, but I feel confident enough to say that a good quality gameplay video should happen by this weekend and other beta testers will be uploading other gameplay videos shortly afterwards

Hope you all can end your day and start your morning with positve thoughts of this.

I said it it was coming this by this weekend, I am the first to give you a timeline, so please give me a chance to honor my word.

I have your backs and have a lot of pressure because of that. I will delete my Pinside account if I don't deliver a video by this Sunday ffs.

So, maybe it would be nice for us to hear something like .... "I can't wait to see the video that's coming this weekend" instead? <<< please post all of the gifs you can on it; but once it actually happens...you have to also say....I was wrong or no previous gifs allowed. Deal?

Anyway;

I personally spent 12hrs today working on this today ('free time') with myself AMSNL WizzardRob stumblor (your beta tester team) including Pedretti_Gaming and the software development team. It's crunch time for this weekends video and all is good.

We have been utilizing central bug tracking tools, up to code .74 (many great revisions), have spreadsheets upon spreadsheets, and all of us are on a non-stop discord literally around the clock with around 500-1,000 entries each day. No hype / just facts...in case you were curious.

Don't hate in advance if I'm not as good as SDTM with vids etc...but I will do my best, and it's coming by Sunday

If not, bash on. Till then = "Cheers to you and yours"

P.S. Once we're out of the trenches after this weekend, we will all be more frequent here and happy to answer your questions, prioritize any issues you may have, and hopefully we can all just share how fun it is; together in the end...on a different page perhaps.

i don't know him/her, but kuddos though to Knapp_Arcade for starting this thread

mikeflan

Thank you for your sincere and knowledgeable input of rules, designers, code, and more

Please don't forget that this is just coming out of beta stage/having it ready to play and enjoy. That was our FIRST mission.

A LOT of what you just (sincerely) mentioned <<we appreciate that, is already in the mix. We want to include each and every suggestion; to blow this out of the water together with everyone in the end....and need everyone's input in the end for it to be MORE than epic.

We have tougher skin than anyone I've ever met (beta testers) and I used to deliver mail for a living. We beat the code and each other up on a daily basis to get things straigtened out, and want to continue to grow with our community.

I don't really feel good saying "we" because I/we/beta testers don't pride ourselves as more important to this being a big success than anyone else should be.

Janos Kiss (lead of the software development team) can/does implement suggestions/'fixes' before we're done mentioning it.

This is just the beginning....not the end

We're doing what we can.
More unbridled videos to come soon ... including the original Funhouse

I agree and coming tomorrow as far as I know

Great input. Thank you.

He DOES say 'stop playing with the clock' and a ton of other fun throwback things / and mixes it up the original with 2.0 << too much/impossible to get into one video. Wished I could have. Ugh

Have you gotten to the end of Haunted Roller Coaster yet? I will bet you a case of beer that you smile and laugh...if you do

Don't worry, if you can close get to Defeat Evil Rudy (wizard mode) your blood pressure will be MUCH more through the roof than getting to midnight in the original. Guaranteed.

I had chances in the vid today to stack modes (but purposefully didn't). I could have showed off the wizard (Defeat Evil Rudy), but didn't. No spilling the tea or killing anyone's excitement as far as I'm concerned. I/we want each and everyone to experience the fun for themselves

Your input is now logged and we are aware of it. Keep being sincere and thank you, sir.

Rudy is growing out of control. Can we stop him or should we encourage him to keep being 3-sheets to the wind..?!??

Thank you all for the positive feedback and suggestions so far. We truly appreciate that.

Although we might not be able to respond to each and every question/suggestion here (still working on this 7-days/week), rest assured that we have not overlooked any single post on here; nor will we moving forward.

We're in it to win it with and for you all.

As one of the Beta testers, I hope I don't overstep anything/anyone, but good/relevant question...

So, I can only confirm that we have ALL still been working relentlessly together on this for everyone around the clock before/since the gameplay videos / = Pedretti Pinball, PPS, FAST, Pinsound, the software development team, graphics team, and us Beta testers also, 7-days/week around the clock.. ..in no particular order..

Everything here is positive and extremely productive!

I can't confirm a ship date as a Beta tester, but I would say keep working on your restoration, your $ is in good hands, and good things will be on the way sooner than later. << zero hype train here .. just excellent results in the end for me too is all that matters..

Final bugs are being stomped out..

We all want to see you guys/gals << in no particular order enjoy this without disregard, have only positive feedback/things to say/feel about it...so we're going the extra mile or 3 as best we can..

We all want this done the right way the first time...as best as humanly possible; from a VERY amazing group of developers/hardware/software etc gurus << and then you also have the noisy captain obvious/knowledgeable beta testers in your back pocket..

We're (Beta testers) pretty relentless and thinking of you/your opinions/what you have said...and we aren't very quiet about it either..

The amazing thing is, that Pedretti and Co. listen to everything and implement everything that we ask for, if it is possible, on your behalf too.

It may seem like I have said this before, but I haven't changed my mind or confidence about anything..

E.g. I felt slightly bad for going out of town today for Valentine's day with my significant other, because I knew everyone else was going to be testing new codes/etc out here without me.

But, you know I can't get in trouble for not taking her out for V-day. So, we took a road trip, she went shopping for a bit...then we happened to end up at a place that had 25 pins. Oops. Oh well, we better play some pins now?!? It was from JP, Hobbit, RFM, AFM, MET, TSPP, Wonka, LOTR, GB, Elvira, Xmen, TWD, etc. We played almost all of them.

When I came home, I played 3 games of FH 2.0. I took a step back and couldn't believe it. FH 2.0 was tied with Wonka/JP for my favorite pins of the day. Honestly. I don't know how, but it was.

Back to work tomorrow on FH 2.0 here, but imo it's worth it's weight in gold.

Hope I helped a bit, no hype here, but it's pretty close and you definitely made a great investment regardless of the timeframe, and I sincerely hope you enjoy it once you get it.

I'm happy you guys are up and running.

Instruction cards and some other VERY awesome things are in the mix.

Please see my post #693 (page 14) here for the overview and the gameplay video etc..

Here's a "nutshell" and I will try not to give too much away..

-Funhouse 2.0 Rudy's Nightmare is based around the clock, as was the original, with things to do as the clock progresses.

-Collect minutes by hitting switches, ramps, scoop, hideout, etc in order to advance the clock to the next hour. Different shots award different minute values to the clock.

-Once it is 1, 2, 3 ,4 o'clock etc on the clock, another mode will be able to be lit on the mini-screen/mirror. << the available mode to play is changed by rolling over the "lit mystery mirror" switch on the right inlane.

-To start and play a mode shoot the wind tunnel once it is lit. If you have more than 1 hour collected on the clock, shoot the wind tunnel again to stack/start 2-3 etc modes at once.

-There will be callouts and on-screen instructions as to what to do during each mode, and with multiple modes at once also.

-The ultimate goal is to try to defeat evil Rudy / wizard mode. To get there you have to complete the clock to 12, and play through all of his nightmares (modes) with him...a.k.a. complete the mirror like 1.0.

-Side modes

-Melt the Clone:

-Light s.t.e.p. targets to activate the steps ramp and left plunge to the lit step target. That initially lights the lock (hidden hallway) for Nightmare Multiball.

If you light the s.t.e.p. targets, shoot the ramp, plunge to the lit step lane (while the lock is still lit before starting Nightmare Multiball) you will actually Melt the Clone. Not easy, but fun stuff.

-Nightmare Multiball:

-Lock 3 balls in the hidden hallway after a successful Melt the Clone left ramp/plunge shot to start it. Once NMMB starts, shoot the trapdoor for Jackpot and then Rudy's mouth for Super Jackpot. Repeat if you can.

-Tips:

1. Keep collecting minutes to keep the clock moving forward always.

2. When playing The Haunted Rollercoaster, hold the correct flipper(s) for 1/2 second vs. a quick tap to register your selection.

3. If you don't like the way your game is going, push/hold the start button for 5 seconds to restart your game.

4. If/once you make it to Defeat evil Rudy, you can also shoot him in the mouth to advance to the next shot.

5. Stay patient with positive spirits as you, and hopefully sooner than later everyone, get and enjoy this. We still have a lot of more amazing polishing, and more, being stomped out as you are reading this.

However, please do tell your takes and suggestions; because your beta testers, Pedretti Pinball, and Co. have been implementing your thoughts throughout this entire process.

We want this to be how everyone wants it with open imaginations in the end.

Noted and forwarded for the instructions on the same page as the update. Thanks for the heads-up.

The mirror will show you which mode is next regardless if you have enough minutes.

If a mode is ready to start the mirror light will be lit. If not, you will hear the sounds of broken glass initially when you shoot it.

Another way to tell is to keep your eye on the clock. Once you get to 1 o'clock the first mode can be started, then 2 o'clock, and so on.

However, you shouldn't be getting a mystery award for the wind tunnel shot, only the scoop, so I would check your wind tunnel switch if this continues.

What are we looking at here? Blown f112?

Did this happen during/after your installation of 2.0?

This happened to someone else.

I will immediately forward this to all, but make sure your machine is unplugged from the wall during installation; and please remember to tighten all grounding screws/straps...and make sure all headers/ribbons are tight before powering back on.

fastpinball can you chime in here on your end as to what could be causing this?

I'm glad to hear and sorry at the same time. We will get to the bottom of that issue and it hasn't happened to anyone else for some reason.

It takes awhile for the boot, and especially a few minutes more after a code update.

Power on again, wait 5 or so minutes after the initial power on/boot and report if it works for you please.

fastpinball can you explain this?

I'm no expert on cpu/mpu manufacturing, and most likely out of my league on this, but it seems that something is regulating power distribution once all systems are recognized; but too much initial voltage being allowed to flow before systems are checked...perhaps?

Also, I wonder did you 2/3 who have had blown f112 fuses have the correct fuses (5A SB) installed? << that happens at times..

I can only reassure that some of us have had some minor initial hiccups upon initial installation, but have had zero issues since; and all systems have been only a go 5,000+ games later with the hard/software...and a 30-year old Funhouse.

I'm not saying this isn't important, because it is, and needs attention so nobody else experiences this moving forward asap.

That's beyond awesome to hear djsolzs !!! Really.

Did you need to replace another fuse throughout your play, or just in case << I'm hoping..

The kits were shipped with somewhere between .82 and .84 code if you received a kit over the last 2 weeks.

The only difference in those codes were mostly volume levels and some callouts that have been added/adjusted.

The current code is .85

That includes some more lighting effects and tweaks some things like the timeout delays a bit between the wind tunnel to scoop kickout for a more specific time of play when the ball is actually available vs. the countdown on the mini-screen/mirror while the ball could still be in the scoop waiting to be kicked out, and some other minor things like that...that we/anyone could be annoyingly perfectionist about.

Major bugs have been worked out much prior to the shipped kits...just in case for you guys.

Any code updates moving forward are very simple yet specific (always tested by us first) and doesn't relinquish or defy from the already stable software/hardware by any means.

As Aaron mentioned, the 1.0 / original Funhouse is completely unmolested and plays flawlessly like it did/should/does. 2.0 is the same in its own right, and neither installed together should blow a fuse initially or in the end.

Please get back with him on your specifics as to your fuses blowing. It definitely isn't software related, because we don't have control over the power distribution with the 2.0 software, so make sure to double check your connections and make sure they are tight and double check the positioning.

My 2.0 didn't initially work because my cpu to mpu ribbon cable wasn't fully seated. << 30 year old connectors can be quite fussy.

Take your time during installation, watch the installation video if you haven't seen it before, and ask questions if you are undecided about anything before proceeding.

We are all here for each other.

That's awesome and great news Aaron in the end for all.

Thank you sincerely for being open about it and straight to the point with the tentative solution. I/we all appreciate that very much!!

However, you can feel free to ship out a fuse kit or 3 to those who were effected by it.

Moving forward though, I can definitely verify that after that initial stage is completed, your hardware is beyond stable and one of the cleanest builds i have yet to see; and I work on a LOT of other areas of similarities.

Keep up the good work like this!!!

I watched it, took notes, reported everything back, and most (if not all) suggestions including yours are already in our centralized bug and data system and are being worked on.

However, all feedback is appreciated and all will be implemented as fast as humanly possible.

They did a great job with the stream (I believe they are doing another on it this Fri or Sat) and I am looking forward to the stream from Canada this evening.

Is your left outlane and plunger switch wiring backwards/mixed up under your playfield? What happens if you push on the left outlane switch during normal gameplay? That is the sound for a drain. I would be curious to see a video of that.

Please check your inbox, so we can get this sorted.

The first 10 kits unfortunately had short hdmi cables. I picked up a 3ft extension cable from Walmart so I could lift my playfield without worry.

No worries on that.

You now have the newest code, but don't have the latest firmware, because you have a very early release kit.

I can Skype and help you update to the currenent firmware with you, if it's really bothering you, but I would recommend holding off until later this week or next when we might have a new firmware available.

The firmware updates the SD card and not the usb.

However, there is nothing wrong with your game, and the time and date will be fixed once you update your firmware version.

Awesome that you got the kit. Congrats.

I have some questions and need more information..

-Did you just get/install the kit?
-Did you have a succesfull 2.0 boot/gameplay and then this occurred?
-If so, what were the variations?
-What are those led strip-lights that you have installed and what are they wired into?
-Are they 5v and potentially powered/pulling from the logic, or do they have their own power supply separate from the machine?
-Do you have clear and concise switches open/closed in switch test with Rudy's opto/mouth gulp/and the trough switches?

To get straight to the solution on this, although it may not be what you want to do, please disconnect any aftermarket lighting that isn't o.g. 1.0 factory. Then, we can build it up from there and get you back and running with all of your mods. << I do like the effects of your leds though.

~(Regular socketed led bulbs are fine / just nothing jumpered or wired into the sockets...for now please until we can solve this)~

I am passing this along to the rest of the team immediately, but I would start by disconnecting all of your leds/strips that aren't socketed leds, make sure your grounding screws on your new boards are secure (straps as well), that your ribbon cables are snapped in/very secure between the Fast cpu and the mpu (very important), and check his mouth opto switch, mouth kickout, and trough coils in switch test.

It makes sense that we find more minuscule variations going from 1.0 to 2.0 with the newer, more accurate, and faster processing boards with more tasks assigned. E.g. 1.0 didn't need to have all switches necessarily in sequence to perform certain features vs. 2.0 and vise/versa.

The FAST Cpu is handling everything just fine. They are also listening to you, Pedretti, and adjusting specific things on their end also as needed.

^^^^ However, have no fear. I have a ridiculous amount of aftermarket and diy lighting that all worked awesome with the 1.0 and now 2.0 kit.

There hasn't been one single issue to date that your beta testers and the team at Pedretti hasn't solved to date; nor will we/they overlook any single issue ever or not be able to fix with this epic upgrade.

Post back here, or feel free to pm me with more information..

Solved and was nobody's fault

That definitely is a nightmare. What code are you running? We had this happen one time before and it should be fixed with the latest .85 code.

See if you can replicate it, and if so pm me a video of it 30 seconds prior to the start it/Haunted Roller Coaster.

So we can take a closer look to root the cause.

I would also recommend what chillme said about potential wires crossed.

There are a bunch of new discoveries that some are finding with installing 2.0.

At this moment, zero have been related to the 2.0 upgrade/hardware/software.

So, as we are all upgrading; please be patient when something 'new' arises.

Every single issue has been resolved, including mine initially, and it is simply a lack of our own maintenance and upkeep of FH at times.

E.g. Reflowing solder on all boards, making sure ALL cables and header pins aren't brittle and are tightly secured, boards and game in general aren't dusty, switches are sanded clean, optos are replaced, switches are individually tested in switch test open/closed and are in the correct positioning, nothing aftermarket plugged in initially and pulling from the power, grounding screws & straps tight on all boards/cabinet/backbox, batteries are replaced at least yearly onboard and inspected for corrosion, and etc.. << All of these things need to be paid attention to at least yearly.

I/we all will be relentlessly here for you (Pedretti moto and sincerity), but it will help us all out moving forward much faster if we can all double check things like that if it could just be a machine specific related issue in the end.

This is all a good thing, to "change our oil" in FH and keep it going for the next 30-years +.

Along as your FH is working good on 1.0, you won't have any issues. The only "issues" that have came up have been something that was overlooked by the owner(s) and all have been more than thankful that we helped them fix their own machine outside of the upgrade.

Also, yes. I am one of the Beta testers. I've been here from the start and all is good and will be for everyone moving forward from now until the end as things may come up..

Again, there hasn't been a single thing not fixed or a suggestion overlooked from anyoneon here from team Pedretti to you and vice versa.

We all have the same passion, are in it to win it, and that can only happen together.

Please refer to posts #1029, 1036, and 1043 in this thread and see if that helps solve your issues. If not please pm me with a picture of your boot up screen that shows which firmware/software etc you are currently running and we can go from there.

Also, you seem to have one of the newer FAST Cpu boards where the misdirection of initial voltages (blew a fuse for a few others) has been corrected, so this seems odd.

No worries though, we will get you up and runnning.

fastpinball what are your thoughts on this?

In case my pm didn't come through on your end, here is what I mentioned, and are some things to check if you have a few fuses to spare:

1. With the power off: unplug the short ribbon cable from the fast cpu to mpu (also make sure the red line is on TOP of this ribbon cable), power on the game, wait 5 minutes, power off, reattach the cable to the mpu (triple check that this cable is very secured), power on and see if it is fixed. (This 'power cycles' the fast cpu for the initial boot without irregular voltages throughout the mpu) <<see the above referenced FAST posts as to why this is

2. Power off, unplug J106 and J107 from the mpu/power driver board, power on, and see if the fuse still blows. (This eliminates certain things that could cause f111 from blowing) <<more on that later

My initial thoughts on your issues:

-You could have a FAST Cpu that hasn't had the irregular voltages addressed and it needs to power-up separate from the mpu initially for a few minutes
-You could have a shorted flasher socket (F111 is the flasher fuse)
-You could have a bad bridge rectifier ~BR4~ (related to F111)
-You could have the wrong fuse in the F111 fuse holder

There are some other things it could be, but those are the go-to first checks..

-Please let me know if you didn't get my pm from earlier today, and rather than flood the feed here, we can solve it via pm and most likely it won't take long.

Again, I am happy to jump on a quick video chat with you and that will definitely help speed things along.

Awesome find ahead of headaches.

Bay78 Lopa canea

Please check to make sure your opto switches are perfectly aligned (tx & rx) <<transmitter/receiver in front of Rudy's mouth. That can cause a fast trigger not to register. We can adjust the 2.0 registry time if needed, but make sure to check your alignment first because this hasn't been an issue and sometimes 1.0 isn't as specific. Also, when was the last time you replaced your transmitter opto? They grow weak over time, usually the transmitter opto, and is never a bad idea to replace them (top of steps also).

^^^However, that is enough said that this is now put in to our database and it will be addressed within the next code release. The new code will be released hopefully in the next couple of days, so if not with this code it will be in the next revision. We all need to smash him in the mouth and be rewarded for it, right!?!

Bay78 Please follow djsolzs and chillme advice as to what to do with your step switches. They are misplaced/wired in reverse order. It isn't whether they work or not, it is the locations of the switches that matter. (When you look at those pictures, make sure you pay attention to what switch I'm pointing at and if that correlates to the switch # on the big display when you open/close it). It isn't uncommon to have a restoration done, or do a little maintenance and accidentally reverse the wiring or switches. We've all done it. << If the switches/wiring is out of order, the game gets confused as to where the ball is at and what it's doing.

I came home from a ridiculously exhausting 14hr+ road-trip today, checked in here to catch up with you guys, and when I came to find that you guys are helping each other out like this it beyond made my day in the end. All for 1 and 1 for all. We will all be error free with the new 2.0 territory soon and moving forward with it.

You got it!! We will not stop until everyone is error free in the end, and as passionate as the Pedretti team is, we can't do it without you and everyone else helping each other help each other.

Btw, there's no shame in that at all. Much worse side note; back in the day I thought I could use a sling switch to increase the brightness in aftermarket led post lighting << it worked for a few, but didn't work out so well in the end.

Trial and error makes us all grow / but having each others back makes us all glow. >(cheesy I know but true)<

Definitely check back in at a later date, but I would bet, excuses aside, that there was older code being used.

Well put and then some.

1.0 gameplay etc is 1oo% just as solid on the 2.0 kit as the o.g. So, if an op would be worried about putting the 2.0 kit on location (including 1.0) without 2.0 working perfectly to their liking before the code is finished, then he/she could just choose 1.0 as the option with the upgraded speakers and displays perhaps.

However, I believe mikeflan is/was referring to a single FH at TPF that, again, was most likely (definitely imo) running older code. Who has time to update the FH 2.0 code when they have to travel to TX?!? Kuddos to whoever took it there...all you.

That's a great point. I haven't though from the price point of the 2.0 kit in awhile. Hmmm.

Before I go any further I am getting paid zero for being a beta tester, spent $10k++ of my time and I paid for my own kit as all of the beta testers did on top of that. << I apologize if this seems like old news to some who have been following this thread from the beginning..

Would I do it again? << Yes!!! << In a Lawlor slingshot heartbeat. FH has always been my favorite from a kid until now 30 years later. It needs to always stay as awesome as it was the first time I played it. If it can be better somehow; let's go and it already is now.

I would like to sincerely compare some prices, to help those out who may be on the fence for some apparent reason, about whether of not this is a good investment for you her/him. There is absolutely nothing in it for me if you do/don't pick up the kit and I could care less if you do too.

So, what do you get with the FH 2.0 kit via hardware/software and what are they worth in USD in comparison to old/new school..?

-Used WPC Soundboard = $300+ (if you can find one in good shape/been there before..)
-Used WPC CPU = $250+
-Used Syst 11 Display = $100
-Add at least $300+ for Pinsound and FAST Cpu upgrade imo

-New/good quality speakers for your existing display panel = $75+
-New 14" high-def display or / Old DMD (subtracting from the upper used for the 14" high-def now) = $150+
-New high-def mini display/frame/mounting bracket/hardware etc = $100++
-New main display wooden panel fully assembled with all electronics and graphics = $200+
-New translite = $50+ (very low end price)
-New side blades = $50+ (very low end price)
-New hdmi cables, maybe a tee shirt, and all hardware = $50 (respectfully)

-Brand new code and new Funhouse experience within the same game = Priceless

So, it seems to = $1,675 for the just the hardware upgrade unless my mental math is off

What happens if you sold your old boards etc to someone who wasn't looking to upgrade? << you subtract from your purchase point and congrats.

Honestly, this kit is being sold for a lot less currently than its worth. Smfh

Please send me some pictures. That is unfortunate.

Push and hold the flipper button(s) for 1 seconds or so vs. a quick tap to make the selection in Haunted Roller Coaster. << I was having the same thing happen also at first. As you progress you do have to be pretty fast. I never noticed it ending early but will have a look.

This has been fixed with the just released .87 code

I'm glad your switches are figured out.

We are aware working on the "missed" on the third try. However, I highly doubt you will be able to get there with the glass on. The reason all switches/lights are lit the first time is to make it easy to award it and start light the lock for Nightmare Multiball the first time.

Nightmare Multiball has 1,2,3 etc million shots as well as a 10mill super jackpot shot. The next time you light the steps there will be only 1 light for more difficulty; but, if you go down the bumper hole it will lesson the difficulty and give you an extra light or 3.

A "how to play" guide will be published for download shortly and include more specifics on this.

I am happy to report that we just fixed the steps "missed" issue. We will be fine tuning it as well as adding increasing jackpots for each time you successfully melt the clone. This will be released with the next code.

In the meantime I challenge you all to see if you can melt the clone more that 1 time with the glass on and report back if you do, and how many times, just for fun. My record is 1.

I had the same issue when I got the kit and ended up running both speaker wire outputs directly to the subwoofer with speaker wire for it to work. I also had bad capacitors at the subwoofer and needed to remove them. I am not suggesting this just letting you know it will be working soon for you one way or another. I forwarded this to the rest of the team (who is most likely sleeping right now) so hold tight until tomorrow because I believe there is a much simpler solution.

Good to hear, I believe you may have missed the target/lit steps lane.

Absolutely though, and I am more curious for everyone to start posting high scores and things like this. That's where my passion is at for this to be at...stat. We will be there sooner than later.

On a side note:

Thank you in advance for all of you who have been early recipients of the FH 2.0 kit. All of you to date are #first50. Congratulations, and thank you in advance for hanging in there with us and you are seemingly just as passionate as we are. Nice.

Moving forward with 2.0 kits, (because they are going to happen via Pedretti sooner than later), we hope that you will be the first early recipients again..

The team that Pedretti has (not including me) will not stop perfecting any issues that arise with the FH 2.0 kit for all, whether big or minute; and appreciate you being part of the 2.0 team.

Sincere/'negative' feedback is also appreciated, so that things can be resolved. They have nothing to hide; only awesomeness to build together in the end.

We are all in it to win it together. I hope you feel the same about this 2.0 kit and more to come soon..

I have yet to meet and work with a more passionate team than working with Pedretti's team; and, I've worked in a ton of 'high-tech/high-profile' teams via beta testing/first launch/development/grass-roots/above and beyond already millionaire+ corporations >> on the opposite side of beta testing as well...etc previously.

This is going places. I personally am glad that you/we are ALL here and we're going places. The commonality seems to be that we all seem to admire huge aspirations and imaginations. I love that. #Letsgo

There are small things that once in a while arise; but there hasn't been a single issue that Pedretti/Janos Kiss software team hasn't been able to fix/address per anything/anyone...and we aren't going to stop there and will always pay deep attention to your concerns and whispers, so keep posting away.. "

"The stupidest question is the question not asked.." << or so my Earth Science teacher used to tell me back in the day........

Hmmm...

-Auto-plunger has not been forgotten for those that might be wondering. Btw.

-What would your next (community of awesomeness and ideas) recommendations be for Pedretti's next 2.0 kit and why personally for you?

-For those who currently have the FH 2.0 kit; what would you still like to see happen with FH 2.0 with the extra fireworks and the icing on the cake/suggestions to make it more fun for you? (E.g. I want more flashers integration personally everywhere on every shot...but, apparently it can get overwhelming..) Ugh

-What if your next 2.0 game soon becomes a reality; what ideas do you have for it?

For what it's worth, I spent 13+hrs of my "free-time" on pinside and other platforms with FH 2.0 (zero hype-up including this post) today, and am not even getting paid in peanuts. I don't need a pat on the back or anything like that, but I just want you all to know that I would do it/buy it again in a heartbeat, and am extremely confident in where Pedretti is going with this. << that includes Pinsound, FAST, all other hardware, and DEFINITELY the Janos Kiss software team Pedretti_Gaming

They are relentless above; and beyond.

Kuddos to you and yours no matter

Yes. The steps being "missed" on the 3rd try is already fixed and will be implemented with other fixes/adjustments in the next code release (.88).

The switching between games issue you are having is because you have an early kit and don't have the firmware I emailed you installed yet. Once you install it you will be fine. Feel free to email or pm me if you run into any issues afterwards.

-FH 02.01 Firmware Update-

-Some of you may have early firmware that currently needs updated to work well with the new code

-How to tell what firmware you have? During powering on, pay attention to the boot screen and if it says "FAST CPU version............02.00" you need to update

-The current version is 02.01. This fixes the time and date saving, different coils and kickouts not working properly, switching between/after game glitches; as well as some other things that I can't remember off the top of my head

~~Installation procedure~~

1. First download the 02.01 firmware hex file and save it to a folder on your desktop for easy access:

https://we.tl/t-jcaw3NFmou

1.5 Download Teensy and read how to use it:

https://www.pjrc.com/teensy/loader.html

2. Unplug the usb cable from the fast board and connect a micro usb cable from your pc to it the fast board with FH powered off

3. Open up the Teensy loader program

4. Power on FH

5. Push the center button on the FAST/Arduino board (this should connect it to your pc if not already detected)

6. Click the box under "file" in the Teensy loader box to search for the newest firmware / hex file and select the file

7. Click the program box in the Teensy loader box (you will notice the light flashing on the Fast board) << it won't hurt anything if you program the same hex file again

8. Click the reboot box on the Teensy loader box and it should say "reboot successful"

9. Power off the FH

10. Unplug your p.c. from the Fast board and reattach the Pinsound usb

11. Power on FH and you will notice it say "FAST CPU version .............. 02.01 in the boot screen

That's it and you are now running the most recent firmware.

Pm me if you have issues during or after the installation.

Btw, if you don't feel comfortable doing this update no worries; just let me know and I, or someone else, will get a how to video together for the procedure if need be

Great news for everyone who is experiencing issues with thier "E" stand up target; I believe.

As we have learned by now that many many FH ramp switches have been wired incorrectly (out of order) from the factory and restorations etc. There were a lot of us that had issues with the steps ramp not working correctly, only to find out in the end that it had nothing to do with the FH 2.0 kit, but our personal machine's incorrect wiring as it should be according to the original FH manual and/or in the switch test. I believe everyone has corrected his/her wiring and all is well now.

Some of us (myself included) have had an issue when the "E" STEP target if it is triggered more than once in a row during gameplay or switch test. There are 3 pinsiders currently who have this causing a tilt, and with myself it is/was causing my trough coil to fire.

After deep diving again tonight, I ended up de-soldering multiple switches that are wired with (sort of) the "E" target switch << switch matrix. What I ended up finding was that after I disconnected the center trough switch...my issue disappeared. Thank you Janos for the idea today.

The Janos Kiss software team at Pedretti, Fast, and your beta team have been looking into this for days now relentlessly, because you guys mentioned it here first and this isn't allowed to happen obviously. We can NOT sleep good at night knowing that anyone has any issues....ever.

From the factory, all switches are supposed to have a diode to allow the voltages to only flow in one direction. I personally don't have a diode on my center trough switch after further inspection. Ugh. By disconnecting this switch wiring physically my trough coil quit firing at the same time. My missing diode there/bad dirty switch potentially, or a similar bad/missing diode/switch for the other 3 out there, is most likely the cause of this and that is allowing the voltages being allowed to travel up/downstream to other switches/coils etc and create 2+ switches being triggered at once.

For anyone who is experiencing issues with their "E" stand up target, please FIRST find a way that you can replicate your issue, take a quick video of it, disconnect your center trough switch wires (two green wires in the pic here), and see if the problem resolves itself.

Most likely we all will hopefully end up with a switch that doesn't have a diode, or the diode or switch is dirty/bad. (pm me how to check diodes or what are diodes etc)

There can also be other diodes/switches that could potentially be bad/missing/need attention on your machine that are related to the "E" target switch, so if disconnecting your center trough switch doesn't instantly seem to narrow it down for you on your machine, don't worry; your Pedretti support team still has your back and you may have another bad switch/diode related to the "E" on your machine.

We are happy to help you get up and running with Funhouse 2.0 stat.
20220402_224846 (resized).jpg

Edit: I actually do have a good diode and overlooked it at first because it is shrink-wrapped in plastic unlike my other diodes here. However, please still disconnect this switch, for those having this issue, and report back because it will still help us get closer to solving this.

That is very helpful and thank you for sharing all of that.

Ok I believe I have found the fix. Everyone double check your wiring at the E switch. Make sure that the tan wires are at the bottom/back tab furthest away from the white line on the diode. Compare with your other stand up STEP switches. This is the correct placement for the tan wires.

20220403_144450 (resized).jpg

That is correct I also have two 2 tan wires. I fixed my post sorry for the confusion because whoever wired that switch up ran one wire from the two wires to the switch.

I can see from your picture you have the same wiring as I did. Move those two tan wires to the other side of the diode and you should be good to go.

A page or 2 back in this thread was the steps being missed on the 3rd try was addressed. The fix for this has been done and will be released in the new code.

The reason that there aren't three balls that lock in Nightmare multi-ball is because you still have the potential to start another multiball mode before you lock all three balls for nightmare multi-ball. For example if you wanted to play the 2-ball multiball evil clones mode and there were already two balls locked physically in the lock for nightmare multi-ball you would have to have one of those balls released in order to start evil clones, but then when that mode was done you would only have one ball physically locked up top for Nightmare.

Detailed instructions on to how to play or going to be released in the next day or two, where this and other things like it are discussed.

Have you tested your diode on this switch (have a multimeter/know how to)? Nothing personal but when was the last time the switch was replaced or the solder was reflowed on it? << just looks a little old.

Look at fabsj82 #1303 post and see if this can help you.

You mentioned that you have a good reading in your switch matrix in 2.0 test while holding one of the trough switches down. Are you pushing E and have you tried all 3 of the trough switches? I believe one of my trough switches didn't create anything out of order but the other 2 did while holding them down and pushing E.

If you could make and post (or pm me if you'd prefer) a video just like fabsj82 did in his #1291 post here that could help narrow things down a bit.

Hello Andy,

I guarantee you that Pedretti and Co. appreciate your and everyone's kind words more than you know. Thank you and everyone who has done the same; and is just as excited about this as we are.

Congratulations on installing the kit and that's awesome that it is already on its way to a show.

I am very confident in the newest firmware and code (more code releases and awesomeness to come for sure though). I definitely would put some games on it first, post here or pm me if you have any issues, so we can make 100% sure you are good to go before this exciting weekend for you.

Pedretti_Gaming is always watching here, super busy at the same time, and I will be sure to mention it to him tomorrow about the instruction cards. (I believe they are being finished up tomorrow and we all just finished up the instructions manual today).

Here is a good go to check for you, and everyone, in the boot-up screen to make sure you are up to date with the current code and firmware version.

It should read:

"Version 0.87_beta" << most current code

&

"FAST CPU version ......................... 02.01"

Let's get that FH 2.0 of yours fired up ahead of time, and make sure it's ready for everyone to enjoy with only smiles. Rudy has one too many raised eyebrows already in my opinion.

On a side note, after 1,000's and 1,000's of plays on it (haven't played it in awhile for fun) I got a new GC today. It has yet to get old for me with all of the different/new combinations; although it is the same pf layout. Game changer and frustrating fun off the hook << you'll see soon.

Also, I am much better at the original now that I have gotten accustomed to not shooting the same areas of the pf over and over again...and the ball saver is such a blessing.

Screenshot_20220404-222653_Chrome(1) (resized).jpg

Great checklist. Once those pending items are good you should be good to go.

Make sure that the USB cable on your Fast CPU is connected to the pin sound board and not the Mini screen. Also make sure you have the correct placement of your HDMI cables on the pinsound as well as the back of the big display..

The newest code will always be up to date on www.pinballremakes.com

There are also easy to follow instructions on there for how to update it. It isn't overwhelming, so no need to worry that you won't be able to do it.

Yes

That is a heartfelt and spot on post right there!

For your comments:

#1 There has yet to be added a "snausage" etc bonus during gameplay (we all put that in our spreadsheets and our bug/suggestion tracking tools database over 3 months ago and it will definitely be included as far as you/we're concerned), but in the meantime if you watch your end of ball bonuses you will see that you get rewarded for all Rudy hits and they carry over to the next ball etc. There will be more homage to the original FH once other more prioritized things are addressed. However, I would still suggest smashing him in the mouth.

#2 There are some more callouts, from my knowledge, that are/will still be implemented. Someone previously in this thread mentioned that it reminded him/her of an auctioneer. So, now every time he says "10 minutes" here I literally laugh and smile. Hang tight, great suggestion; and your ideas for other callouts have now been logged.

#3 The match-skip, while on free play, was mentioned not too long ago and is hopefully going to make it into the next (.88) code update coming out soon. Thank you for bringing this to everyone's attention here, because it I think it was mentioned somewhere else.

canea , and everyone here, you won't believe your eyes and ears once we get towards the "end" phases of the code here (past other things that are more priority) with the fireworks that are going to happen << Zero hype and a TON of more fun to come!!

Myself, WizzardRob , stumblor , and AMSNL in no particular order << have currently been your relentless for free beta testers. We appreciate your support and aren't looking for a pat on the back.

All of us, just like you, are life-long fans of Funhouse, again, and appreciate Rudy's roots first and foremost. Pat Lawlor was beyond a genius with this layout except for the slings to outlanes. Or was that genius too? The jury is still out on that one. This definitely feels like a different layout with the new code regardless.

We don't want to do it exactly the same, hence 2.0, but in the end we want zero missing feelings. "Hey, it's only pinball.." So, have patience, keep the suggestions coming, if you have an issue we are here to help you and are on it stat.

Please make sure your game is 1.0 error free please first; and more awesome fun is right around the corner with Pedretti's next 2.0 kit. Let's keep building this up together.

We will not let you guys down and the more fun creativity you can suggest the better it can be as close as to everyone wants it for him/her in the end.

Nothing here ever gets overlooked from Pedretti_Gaming although they are extremely busy. I give you my word on that.

This is used to adjust the settings of your big display to your liking with the remote. E.g. Contrast, brightness, etc. This didn't come in my kit (beta tester) but we thought it should be an option so here it is.

One of the other beta testers will definitely reply to you tomorrow who has it with how to use it. I have forwarded this to the rest of the team for them to advise you, but no worries, because this is just an add-on for you to customize your big screen.

Thank you for reporting back and we have your back.

Your best bet is to go into the 2.0 switch test menu. This is a huge upgrade from 1.0 where it now displays all of the switches on the screen at the same time and will show/display what switch is being triggered and/or which other switch(es) is/are being triggered because of incorrect factory wiring.

So, push all of your stand up switches in 2.0 switch test and see if any other switches on the screen light up when you push your "E" switch.

When you push your "E" target switch you should only see the "E" target switch light up on the screen.

PM me with a video of this if you can and we will get you sorted if that doesn't isolate it for you and your machine.

Here is the link again. If you have any issues feel free to pm me.

https://we.tl/t-JOZTOKqNaT

For those of you who haven't had time to install your kit yet, and my have an older firmware version, you will no longer need to worry about doing this because the latest firmware will be included in the next code update (.88).

.88 code will be released very soon and we will post here as soon as it is available for download at www.pinballremakes.com

Thank you for the feedback/suggestions. Pedretti wants this to be ultimately as close as possible to everyone's liking so we encourage this for sure. The final bugs are on their way out and there is a ton of things that will still be implemented, but bugs are first priority.

-The million shot is designed to be a smash on the mouth with homage to the original, but let me know if your million is not lit afterwards because if not the points definitely need awarded as you said

-We will look into the hideout not being awarded, but some modes exclude normal gameplay features to decrease the distractions from the current mode/mood

-Hide hurry up is placed at the beginning purposefully, so that if it's on location someone has a better chance of experiencing it if he/she only has 1 credit. I completely agree that 5 minutes etc could be replaced there and good advice.

-Please PM me more details on the upper switches and how that is affecting the locks (there is a debounce fix for this area in the next code release I believe)

-There are a plethora of fireworks in store for the wizard mode. There isn't a ball saver on the next ball (after you drain all 3 in wizard mode) because you are still playing the previous ball (not a new ball) after draining all 3 in wizard mode. << In a way after draining all 3 in wizard mode, that is a ball saver because the same ball is still in play. I hope that makes sense and I am understanding what you are saying correctly. Please elaborate if not.

-Congratulations on the Haunted Roller Coaster with your energy drinks and not spoiling

Please everyone keep the suggestions coming as well.

Wow. That was a lot of passion and thank you for sharing for us all to learn from.

-For your "E" switch issues please take a look at post #1291 by fabsj82 and #1293 to make sure your wiring is correct before you rule out diodes. (please note that you will only see 1 'tan' wire in my pic but please ignore that because there are 2 there jumpered into 1 from a previous owner)

-Great find on the hideout hold/no kickout after switching modes. That should not happen. It has been reported and will definitely be fixed. We were not aware of that specific scenario, and this is why it's great to have feedback like this

-The ball search feature is in the middle of having a brand new "Rudashian" makeover << hope i didn't offend anyone and if you don't know who the 'dashians' are you are better off haha Either way the ball search is being totally revamped

-When long pressing the start button to switch between games and you get another ball into the shooter lane, does this happen after you drain your first ball as a 1 player game? << I am wondering if your start button switches might be dirty and not making a solid connection for the long hold and rather starting/adding in player 2?

-Please double check the switching between games on your machine and pm me a video please if you can with his mouth, eyes, trapdoor etc. Coils not working properly for any reason go straight to the top of our to fix list especially if we can replicate it between machines.

-There is no such thing as petty. Those are excellent examples of things that should be incorporated. Most of those are going to be added in order of priority. But, some have not been thought of yet and are simple additions. Thank you for sharing.

This is great feedback and others here please try out these and other owners scenarios/issues (and take notes of your own in these early stages) if you have time, and also report back and make sure at the same time to always note the fun things too like this. In the end it's all about the love for#TeamRudy

Geeshh chillme you almost gave me a heart attack reading that. Haha Glad you're up and running and thanks for some heads up in that area. Happy flipping!!

Please ignore any random/non stock wires in the pics (too many mods here) but hope this helps..

20220411_235444 (resized).jpg

20220411_235449 (resized).jpg

We are looking into this. Carefully reseat all of the cables associated with the 2.0 kit in the backbox as well as the speaker wires to see if it makes a difference in the meantime.

Always make sure that these ribbon cables are not "off" a pin or 2 and that they are fully seated. Make sure that the red line in this situation is at the top like this..

20220412_195636 (resized).jpg

That is correct. Only the panel speakers. However, the cabinet speaker sounds amazing with the new Pinsound board, so I would suggest trying it with yours before you order a sub.

Thanks Zukidog I just got home but will try this in a bit and that helps a lot with specifying your scenario like that. Please pm me a video of this if you can. If it is repeatable like you say, and for others too, it will be narrowed down in an instant and fixed / no worries.

Curious what was the root factor that was causing the other 95% of your issues and how did you fix it?

Edit: I tried to replicate your scenario for 1/2hr+ and could not produce it following exactly the steps as to how it is happening for you. Please send me a video as soon as you can because this sort of thing isn't taken lightly and needs addressed.

We have learned that things are more accurate with the new 2.0 hardware for FH to be in good shape and wired appropriately. Tentatively, it leads me to believe it is something that might be specific to your game; unless someone else would like to take a few minutes to see if he/she can reproduce it. The rest of us will also try to do the same.

At this point I am not ruling out that:

-The small ribbon cable on your machine between your FAST Cpu and your MPU (Power driver board) could be old and/or it isn't fully seated
-The header pins on your MPU for the small ribbon could be dirty. Inspect the pins closely in this area to look for corrosion etc
-The header plugs/pins on your MPU associated with the coils could be dirty and/or the solder on the back-side of the same pins could use some re-flowing. (See the below manual on page 118 for reference and these include J107 / J122 / J127 / J130) >> It's always a great practice, to replace the header plugs/pins as well. << These have the most average abundance of electricity flowing through them, so are more common to minute pitting and deterioration over time especially 30 years later.

^^^ You can start carefully with some fine grit sandpaper to clean header pins

Please send me a video because I want the other 5% for you to be good to go asap

https://www.arcade-museum.com/manuals-pinball/F/Funhouse_OPS.pdf

Sounds great and good to know. This is a big problem regardless whether it is just your machine or not. I wouldn't worry about the code being an issue. Good idea to record it in it's current state, because somewhere down the road someone else might be able to relate to it. Keep us posted and cheers always!!!

Great heads up on the cable info. Please report back after you get a replacement. It could only help your FH be 'newer' if replaced

-Duckhunt and other modes will continue to have more fun stuff added throughout the new code releases, so hang tight and perfect feedback with that regardless

-You are seemingly having tilt issues because this happens due to multiple E target switch-hits in game / not just a single hit. Start with post #1283 here and read forward. You're E switch wiring is bad most likely

-The airball/drain sound is because your ramp/wireforms switches wiring might not be correct. See the sticky or post #1116 for clarification

-Multiball 'abuse' will NOT be tolerated soon with new code updates haha << great point; and give him a few and he will currently still tell you

Thank you for the video. That makes things crystal clear. I just tried again exactly as your video and couldn't replicate it. I am forwarding this along and hope to get this figured out for you sooner than later.

Thank you guys, and everyone, for the honest feedback. We might not be able to respond to each and every post here, but we do read each one and note things not already in our database.

Here is a link to the most excellent and printable 2.0 "how to play" instructions. They can help you understand the ruleset a bit more and explain the virtual vs physical ball locks; and why it is designed like this (options).

https://www.pinballremakes.com/how-to/

Hang in there Zablon and no worries; as your posts have all been well noted and forwarded/noticed also by the Janos Kiss software team at Pedretti and Fast.

From my learning today, there has been some changes within the last month with the Fast firmware to handle these and other similar scenarios.

What is epic and revolutionary at this point to me, is that Janos Kiss (working relentlessly on the software side of things) was able to incorporate the forthcoming Fast firmware updates into the same steps as the usb / code updates. So, you/we will no longer need to worry about doing the Teensy/Fast updates separate from the code updates.

From now on, we will be able to just pull out the usb drive from the Pinsound and update the brand new code (.88 on the horizon); and it will automatically update the Fast firmware if need be at the same time and we get back to flipping.

No, you shouldn't have any coils not working with .87 at all. But, the new Fast firmware is addressing some coil issues with.the .88 code which could potentially solve this. You can wait for .88 or in the meantime take your cables off of your new Fast CPU and reseat them all as well as the small ribbon cable on your MPU (power driver board). Carefully make sure they are tight. I had a similar problem initially, but it I didn't fully seat the small ribbon cable and was missing coils. Make sure the red line is at the bottom of your short ribbon cable also just in case.

Pm me if this doesn't solve your issues and we can check things out together.

I have the M3X FH title mod in my FH. It definitely wasn't designed for a 2.0 kit. Ironically, I found that if you put your new translite in front of your o.g. backglass you will see some pretty cool results. Some lights with it might need adjusted/angled differently, but still worth keeping and still fun to have.

Hope your recovery goes well. (Pinside needs a heart emoji smfh) Kuddos though to you for persevering and still dropping 2.0 in against all odds.

Each time I use one of those grabbers I end up hurting myself, but great idea.
20220414_002053 (resized).jpg20220414_002110 (resized).jpg

Please see the sticky / post #1116 Then go into 2.0 switch test and test all of your switches to make sure they are registering correctly and that only the specific switch tested is showing up on the screen. It sounds like your machine might have incorrect wiring. Don't worry, you are not alone.

So, what's everyone's favorite mode(s) so far and did anyone get their own G.C. score yet?

Mine is a tie between Nightmare Multiball / Rudy and the MONKISS; and yes.

The big potential points in Nightmare gets my heart racing and the 'who cares' feeling in RATM is refreshing

Amazing insight. Kuddos/seriously. Congrats to your 81-mill and that's some serious flipping skills. Apparently you have played 2.0 a TON to be able to understand and appreciate all of this.

You are right. The timed modes purposefully don't timeout when you start a multiball mode. That is because (worst case scenario) if you drain a ball during a multiball mode, you still have that previously 'stacked' mode running (timed) in the background when you get back to it; for the chance for you to stack/start another multiball mode next if you have enough minutes collected and get some more big points.