Excellent!
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Quoted from KenLayton:I built a couple of 4" diameter leg cleaning tubes with screw in clean out caps for my friend Welby Bergum. The 4" tube will hold four legs at once plus give you room to put your hand in there to pull the legs out when done. If you use a 3" diameter tube you can only do two legs at once plus you'll need a bent up coat hanger or stiff wire to snag the legs to pull them out.
Because my buddy Welby buys/sells/trades so many machines we're always using the leg cleaning tube. On those nice hot summer days where the temperature is 80 degrees or hotter, we were doing complete sets of legs in only two hours.
Here's a tip, if the machine was from an operator's route and there's floor wax all over the legs, put some floor wax stripper on the legs first. Getting that wax off is important so the Evapo-Rust can do it's job. Once that floor wax is gone then put the legs in the Evapo-Rust.
If the leg levelers are rusted stuck in the leg, put the whole leg in the Evapo-Rust anyway. It will leech into the leveler threads and loosen it so you can remove it.
In your experience, are there legs that are too rusted to be helped? The legs I got with my Atlantis project are completely covered in rust front and back. I bought new legs, but would love to salvage the ones I have. I'll need to make leg tubes like you said. What do you seal the bottom end with? A cleanout cap and some of the PVC pipe dope?
Quoted from KenLayton:There were a few that were really pitted. So for those we took them to a local powder coater and we had them done up in black powdercoat for just $25 per set of 4 legs. Last summer we did a Data East "Hook" in which the legs were pretty bad. Data East uses black painted legs. The paint was real bad and was flaking off anyway. Once the rust was gone, we simply used some black Hammerite spray paint and they came out looking great. They looked like factory legs again!
For the bottom of the tube I used a PVC end cap and glued it on with the PVC cement. Also glued on the cleanout fitting so that when you screw on the cover, it can't leak. I figured that sometimes there might be a possibility of the tube falling over and I didn't want all that expensive Evapo-Rust being spilled. Also, every so often you want you shake/swish the Evapo-Rust to help it along.
Cool, thanks Ken! And sometime soon I want to come by and see Welby's shop and the games he's got for sale there.
I made my tube and it’s working great! I’m doing legs and side-rails this week for the Quick Draw project I’m working on. Going to put in legs for the King Pin I picked up last weekend soon too.
Here’s a pic of the tube and also one of two formerly rusty legs I took out of the tube this morning.
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This most recent batch i ordered online via Walmart. Free shipping and I think it was $19 for a two gallon jug maybe? I got two jugs.
Quoted from PinballFever:I got a gallon for $14.99 at Pep Boys. https://www.pepboys.com/product/details/206426/00794
That beats Wal-Mart by $5 a gallon. I just ordered another gallon from my local Pep Boys online and did "in store pickup". Will swing by on the way home from work. Great stuff.
Quoted from jrpinball:I haven't heard it from anyone here, but someone told me that Evaporust has an off putting odor, kind of like puke.
Is this true?
I don't think so. It does have a slight "vinegar-y" smell but overall it's not bad at all.
Quoted from PinballFever:Thanks for the tips. I notice that the evaporust seems to stain the metal if I leave it in for a long time.
Has that happened to you? Is the stain permanent or removable with some kind of polish?
But shouldn't be permanent. Should buff out with metal polish.
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