I am glad to see that you have decided to restore and bring those two games back to life. Congratulations on your decision!

Hi, what technique did you use to pull up the mylar?

any paint come up off the playfield? I have a whirl Wind I am thinking on pulling the mylar

Freeze spray is the way to go. Did my playfield as well. The blue color is Createx W013 Wicked Lagoon Blue as an exact match on the large blue area's. In the netherlands i order it at: http://www.airbrush-services-almere.nl/shopasa/contents/nl/d170_02.html

For more information and pics of my FH playfield visit: http://www.flipperforum.be/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=5288

Good luck man!

Use the freeze spray method. I used a blowdryer on my F14-tomcat and pulled a lot of paint of the inserts winding me up with replacing all the insert decals. Used freeze on my BTTF, FH and even on my Fire (which has a tendency of being very difficult) and almost no lift. Be careful, be patient and be willing to invest. I usually use 2,5 can of 400ml freeze 75 which costs 19 euros (in NL) per can. So removing mylar usually costs me around 50 euros.

If you want some pics, check my site (in Dutch however): http://www.flippergast.nl

When you take the mylar off you should remove the glue right after or it becomes concrete. Try using ronsonsol lighter fluid I have really good luck with that. Put a piece or 2 of paper towel down and soak it and let it stay for 10 or so minutes and then work the glue. If still very difficult let it soak for longer not letting the paper towel dry.

What exactly do you guys and gals use for freeze spray? Is it canned air used upside down?

Yes canned air upside down and don't be afraid to put a lot on. Wait till it ices over and peel away.

Aren't you going to do touchups and protect your playfield??

Great job Jon! Appreciate the text updates when you get time.

If you don't protect your playfield the artwork is going to come off and all of your work will be obsolete. Pity.

With the way you are going it looks like a full restoration. Why not go all the way. Those paint touch ups will ware out quicker than you think and then you will be back to sqaure one.

I completely agree. This is, I suppose, an underhanded compliment, but I don't mean it to be one: You did such a beautiful job replacing that bottom, that it's a shame to leave any part of the machine looking like shit. I'm with Flash on this one...you probably have the skills to make this a collector quality machine. And you should. (But you probably won't, and that's your prerogative!)

Sell the playfields you have now and other parts you have changed that are still usuable and buy new playfields. Save up for the difference.

Dammit! I was just gonna say that...

1. Kinda. You've got some planking, it looks like, some chewed up inserts, and some discoloration.
2. Not much. Not many people would buy that to even restore because Marco makes reproductions, which kills the restored PF market in the same way MMr killed the value of MM.

Here's what's frustrating for a guy like me: You've got beautiful new white rubbers and nice looking plastics sitting on top of a playfield that's way past its prime. Even your ball trough looks immaculate. You've really done a wonderful job. Sell the parts from the other game, collect $700, and get yourself a new playfield. You can thank yourself (and me) later when you've got a wonderful machine. Of course, you'll need some new cabinet decals as well, but you're still coming in under $1000 to really make the game pop.

Again, I realize that doing this might not be in your wheel house, but the job you did on the bottom of the cab tells me otherwise.

That or grab the best parts from the second one put it on this restored one and then sell the other one as a project. You would end up with an amazing game and still have money left in your pocket. Not sur eon pricepoint

Wouldn't be surprised if you got over 1k for a project Funhouse with parts missing.

Saw a really rough Funhouse at an auction a month ago that went for $1800. GI only.

The price of a project machine IMO, depends a lot on local demand. If it were local to me (200 miles or less), I'd pay around $1k for it, but it is one of my dream machines.

For me, I don't like buying projects I can't personally inspect, and get an idea what I am getting into.

Looks good

Question: I know you're probably using a circular saw to cut the small holes in the back box back panel and vent holes on the cabinet bottom. But what did you use to cut the big speaker hole? Is there a circular saw that big?

Not sure how the OP did it but using a circle cutter on a router is probably the easiest way to get a nice round circle. Router pivots around a hole drilled at the center of your proposed cutout. You can even make one yourself out of a piece of good quality ply.

I used one like this. http://www.parts-express.com/jasper-circle-jig-model-200--365-250?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=pla

speaker_cutout_(resized).jpg

That would take one helluva carpenter

Huh? How would you do it? I'm confused...