Yes, I have this issue from time to time as well, it is very sporadic and a switch that doesnt work now will work the next time the ball goes up there. I am definitely keeping an eye on it to see if it gets worse.

FYI, to everyone getting a new game, make sure you level your wheels. If they are not level and sit just a hair below the playfield, the ball will chip the clear away and take the paint with it.

Here are some pics of two of my wheels. This happened within days.

Luckily, we have Cliffy and his awesome products. I ended up getting 4 of his carbon fiber magnet protectors for TWD and the newer Stern style magnets. These fit the wheel openings perfectly and actually look pretty good.

image3_(resized).jpeg

What is the build date on your game? I had ALL kinds of issues with my auto-plunger. Mostly it is super weak, but every now and then it gets all the way around the orbit. For the longest time everyone told me my fuses were incorrect, so I changed them and it seemed to kinda fix the problem, but it would still surface. I finally got on a Skype session with the Heighway engineering team and we identified that my game shipped at the end of March, but in April they discovered there was an issue with the primary I/O board that sits on top of the driver board and they built a revised version. Since my game shipped before that, it didnt have the new board and the game was very wonky and underpowered and not consistent at all.

I am now waiting for the new board to arrive from Heighway, they are confident this will fix all the strange issues I have experienced with my game.

If you have a game that was built before April, and you feel it does weird stuff from time to time, I would contact Heighway and see if you need the revised I/O board.

I believe there will be a new revision number on it. As soon as mine comes in, i'll let everyone know what number to look for on their board.

I forgot to add this as well. If you have one of the early games that were built before April, then you need to check your wheel motors as well. You are checking to see if there are capacitors installed between the leads going to each motor. The early models don't have them, and Heighway realized they are needed to smooth the current across the 4 motors to keep them from burning out. If you don't have them, hit up their support line and they will send you the components to solder in.

I think those are the old ones. My 4 I/O boards are red and v1.4 and they told me mine were the older version and would need the new one to replace the I/O board that attaches to the driver board on the bottom of the cabinet.

Mine is a standard.

I believe this is the new board, mine does not have that sticker.

Same thing happened to me, both plastics shot by the end of the first week. Insane air balls.

Here is what I did to fix it:
1. Ensure that the wheel mechs are 100% completely flush
2. Ensure that the flipper sub assembly mech is 100% completely flush
3. Remove those god awful superbands, this game already gets a lot of side spin on the ball, these only exacerbate the problem and will get the ball airborne. Put regular rubbers on.

If all of that has been done and you are still having the issue, then it is probably an issue with the bats themselves, like others mentioned before me. I am sure Andrew and his team will get this figured out for you.