(Topic ID: 249284)

Whirlwind... Spinning back to original condition.


By yaksplat

66 days ago



Topic Stats

  • 53 posts
  • 16 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 days ago by yaksplat
  • Topic is favorited by 23 Pinsiders

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There are 53 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.
#51 8 days ago
Quoted from russdx:

I really like the pre lamp/switch test rather then plug and pray lol

Thanks. I found it quite validating to see the lamps light up that I expected. Hey wow, i didn't screw that up. Also, going through this really helps you understand what's happening in the machine.

#52 8 days ago
Quoted from yaksplat:

I'm using a variable speed hand drill so i'm not going fast (<100rpm). Even then, it would take an epic screw up and failure to mess up a countersink.
I am intrigued though. I didn't know this existed. I'm going to add this to my list of tools that i need.
Thanks!

With your wooden play field you are probably OK. I did aircraft sheet metal. Microstops were derigueur for countersinking thin gauge sheet metal. Every once in a while a tight fitting situation arose that would not allow the use of a micro stop. So we had to go the suicide route. You learn very quick why it is called suicide.

There are several different sizes/styles. Wide based for stability. Long and skinny for hard to reach places.

Cutting bits come in several sizes to accommodate different hole sizes. There are also different size pilots for different size holes.

https://www.google.com/search?q=microstop+cage&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwi2mvyqrpDlAhXjHjQIHWCvAkMQ_AUIEygC&biw=1280&bih=883

#53 2 days ago

I liked the look of the BriteRings pop bumper led rings from BriteMods.

https://www.pinballlife.com/briterings-pop-bumper-lighting.html

The issue is that there's a cut pop bumper cap on the whirlwind and the ring would have to be cut to match the cap.

So I cut it, knowing that I'd have to reattach some traces around the cut. Sure enough, after the cut was made, a good portion of the lights no longer worked on either side of the board. But that was expected.
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From examining the traces, only the positive trace needed to be reattached. The inner trace is positive and the outer trace is negative on both sides of the board. I scratched the mask off the board and put a small jumper from the positive terminal to the exposed trace.
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I could then attach this trace to the bottom of the board in the same way. Just a small jumper around the end of the board.
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Once complete, the board lit right up on both sides.
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Then the board gets glued into the cap that was cut and all should work well once assembled.
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There are 53 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.

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