Hey all,

I have decided to rotate out my very nice ES.

A quick rundown. I personally did a full restoration on the cabinet, inside and out including the full sanding treatment, paint, complete dis-assembly and everything else that is done when I restore a cabinet. The only thing I did not do was to decal the head since the head was immaculate to start. The head is factory painted, the cabinet like 99% of ES’s was decal’ed. I custom painted the legs, start button and a few other parts. New blue shooter rod was installed as well. I repainted the coin door and refreshed all metal parts.

As for the playfield, I did not do a full “restoration” rather, I did a very comprehensive shop job. I did this beacause I was planning on replacing the playfield with the incoming CPR ES playfield and plastics that were due to be out this last summer but have not been released yet. Every part was dis-assembled, cleaned, etc. The playfield is in extremely nice condition and has factory mylar that I considered removing but have not gotten around to. The inserts have not lifted which is also uncommon for an ES. I believe that if the mylar was removed it would look spectacular due to the low plays this game has seen. I installed a new set of slings and the other easy break plastics.

Boards are all factory matching and clean.

I have a new set of skill shot plastics that I need to install and I need to get a new set of brushes for the shaker motor as its shakes too softly sometimes.

I was told by the seller that he bought the game locally from The Game Doc in 1995 so it was not routed as heavily as most.

If I were to sell it I would ask $2500 but would prefer a trade within Ca, NV, or AZ

I'd prefer 90's WMS/BLY DMD pins like CP, SC, RS, though I'd like a super nice BK2K, FH, Medusa, Fathom, Centaur or WH20 if we were talking non DMD.

Let me know what you have as I'd entertain lots of titles.

Email me for pics.

Thanks!
Kevin

_{Post edited by Kevin_LHeureux : Game has sold}

ooh look. The rgp price police have made it over here now. GREAT!

Spend the money on a new set of cab decals and parts then throw the extensive amount of labor that doing a proper cabinet restore and shop job entails and the value becomes apparent. Have you seen this machine? Can you competently asses it's value from behind your keyboard?

Check my rep on rgp (do a search) before you trash talk me or my work. I'm no scam artist. Keep it to yourself.

In fact, here is a link to just some of my work http://usergallery.myhomegameroom.com/gallery/kevinlheureux

Besides, I am looking for a trade in case you didn't bother to read the important part of the post.

Here are some pics of the ES. I will also add that the coin door has been restored, ramps torched, etc.

http://usergallery.myhomegameroom.com/gallery/album1423?page=1

I might also pull the mylar if I hang onto it which should reveal some pristine paint. There is no insert lifting, only mylar bubbling so it shouldn't be an issue as long as patience and care is taken.

I agree about the mylar though it doesn't look as apparent in person as it does in the pics. Also, I had just finished the game before I left town for 4 months having just returned I haven't had time to decide what to do with it.

Did you happen to look at the pics of the High Speed I restored on my webpage? Full play field mylar on that as well. I restored that game and took the time to remove the mylar. I'm no rookie. You've read about it but I have done it. I'd say it came out pretty nice. What do you think? You're right though, it's no easy task but if you know what you are doing it's completely do-able.

As I said before, I was planning on installing a repro playfield when they become available which would severely increase the price on this machine. Maybe I'll remove the mylar on the game and bump the price commensurately.

You know it's always a case by case basis for which method to use but typically I use the "slow heat" method in conjunction with a fair amount of Goo Gone for non-DP games which seems to work best. I feel like if I freeze it there is a greater chance that paint can "pop" off in an instant and there is no going back. If I heat it then I can see whats coming. Like you, I use freeze spray on DP games because it's quick and easy with very little chance of issues.

As I said in a previous post, the mylar is not as apparent in person as it is in the pics with the flash so it's really not that big of a deal. As-is it's nicer looking than probably 90% of ES's out there and there is always a risk that things could go wrong if I do pull the mylar. I am a bit of a risk taker though so who knows.

Bump. Any questions, feel free to ask.