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(Topic ID: 219880)

FT playfield, I’m a dumbass


By northerndude

2 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 24 posts
  • 11 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by northerndude
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    #1 2 years ago

    Was taking the last piece of Mylar off my FT so I could put my last couple decals and prep for clear coat. Now I have a delay, I had a small “chunk” of what I didn’t want to come up with the Mylar. Was coming up nicely and smooth, then this happened, I used a fresh blade to cut around it and leave it for a now.

    Time to find some creatix paint and just do this tiny repair? The shitty part is it’s right at a weird colour during the transition from lighter to darker blue.
    Suggestions??

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    #2 2 years ago

    How were you taking off the mylar?
    The only success I have ever had was using Freezespray along with Goof Off.
    I used a heatgun once, only once and it was not a good experience...

    #3 2 years ago

    I suppose the question i was trying to ask was - is this a relatively easy colour to create? If I can replicate an extremely similar blue I could put some tiny, tiny dots on it with a black and a toothpick

    #4 2 years ago
    Quoted from Edster:

    How were you taking off the mylar?
    The only success I have ever had was using Freezespray along with Goof Off.
    I used a heatgun once, only once and it was not a good experience...

    See I always use heat with no issues. Only had issues with freeze spray. Weird.

    #5 2 years ago

    Why not use a water slide decal? Take a photo of the gradient dots with the blue and laser print on sheet. Color matching isn’t my thing.

    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gottlieb-touchdown-playfield-repairs-with-waterslide-decals

    #6 2 years ago

    Thx for the info toaster

    Could I also put a couple squishes of super glue below, seal it in beside my new fish decal and clear over it?

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    #7 2 years ago

    Freeze spray has always worked best for me. Maybe the way its done makes a difference. I spray the entire area first, then work the edge while spraying till it starts. Then I spray more than I pull and works great.

    #8 2 years ago
    Quoted from Toasterdog:

    Why not use a water slide decal? Take a photo of the gradient dots with the blue and laser print on sheet. Color matching isn’t my thing.
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gottlieb-touchdown-playfield-repairs-with-waterslide-decals

    I had a read on that thread, I don’t have the way or the means to create this
    Unless someone else does it. I don’t have the software for it, I could go “download it” wink wink and try something, and borrow a scanner but I don’t have a color lazer printer either.

    #9 2 years ago

    Ok folks, thanks for the freeze vs. heat ideas. I’ve done a bit of Mylar by now and I’m only looking for “how to fix this mess” thoughts now, I’m passed the Mylar removal.

    #10 2 years ago

    Well, we’ll see what happens. Since I still had the artwork intact I got a tiny paintbrush and brushed in some gorilla glue gel and fixed it in place right beside the new decal. If something happens before I clear it, I’ll address it then. It’s good enough for the girls I go with.
    This will have to do unless someone is in some kind of “pay it forward” event and gifts me a cpr playfield !!!

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    #11 2 years ago

    FWIW I've used a digital camera, snapped a picture and then printed it on a good laser printer. Works almost as good as a scanner.

    You might have to buy a pack of water slide paper, but you can take your digital photo to Office Depot, Kinkos, Staples etc and they could print.

    Other then sourcing paper, it will be relatively easy IMO.

    Your fix might be just fine with clear on it though. Good luck!

    #12 2 years ago

    I think if you search in the main Roadshow thread, there's a damaged RS playfield that was repaired with waterslide decals and it looked really good. I would say the damage was imperceptible afterward, at least from the pics.

    #13 2 years ago

    Im in a small town with none of the above box stores, BUT we do have a nice little sign/logo/decal shop that maybe I could snap a pic and have them put it on a thin vinyl? I could cut it to shape and put it in, and then clear and seal it in?

    #14 2 years ago

    Are you sure you want to clear over a piece of Mylar ? I am not sure if this would be ok in the long run. What about printing a decal through an online printing service . I know it takes long but the result would be fine. Vinyl is a bit thicker than decals , and you may have some problems leveling the area. I guess trying heat to remove is out of the question now since you used superglue .

    #15 2 years ago

    It’ll pop off if I give it a tug. Heat wouldn’t have worked to separate the tiny bit of art from the Mylar, it would have just fell apart to little pieces.
    I am going to try to get a pic and a small piece of vinyl printed off, I’ll try to get someone to use a thin material.
    I have too much time and other energy and money into this to leave it with a shitty piece of Mylar under the clear.

    2 months later
    #16 2 years ago

    Been awhile but I’m back to refurb job here, took a bunch of pics and fired them off to our print shop to try to create a thin vinyl decal to place over the general area that I outlined. I’m going to cut it to fit at the black border so it minimizes the mistake I made. I’ll be clearing it thick
    With spraymax 2k shortly to seal it
    All up
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    #17 2 years ago

    Dude you should just totally touch that up, paint the base color light blue (thin it out) then use a tooth pick and make the dots with the dark blue. You can do it man I know you got the chops.

    #18 2 years ago
    Quoted from gmkalos:

    Dude you should just totally touch that up, paint the base color light blue (thin it out) then use a tooth pick and make the dots with the dark blue. You can do it man I know you got the chops.

    Would I pre-fill the "hole" with the paint? it kind of has some depth.

    I would have to go read, read, read, threads, but what type of paint? Creatix? then need to mix it up to color..... Hobby stores? I'm in a small town. might have to go find some local artists on facebook or something... I could probably do it,

    The tough part is at the top of the "repair" area, the damn dots start to turn into tiny squares. Anywhere else on the PF but this blue/dotty area would be easier to repair with paint.

    #19 2 years ago

    Oh I see what your saying there all kind of squarish, I'd find something square too make those dots with. Maybe sand down a toothpick so it has 4 sides. You could prob get away with just making them round once its done nobody would ever notice the diff. Less paint is better, practice on a paper plate its usually like dip and get 1-2 dots dip again etc. You can get that paint in acrylic pretty easily. Thin it out and sorta float a blob in there then wipe off the excess with a cue tip or something, let it dry good then go for the dots. If you let the light blue dry good if you mess up or go too heavy on the dots you can just wipe it off with water and try again.

    #20 2 years ago

    In a crazy twist of events, I went out to garage this am to pick out the entire shat piece and go to the store to get acrylics and make this repair happen. I go to pick it out and the art stayed on PF and the Mylar came away clean! Wow, lol. NOW, I’m heading down to still get some paint, but I’m going to do a touch up around the art instead. I think leaving art and touching up will look/be better than me trying to fix the entire piece.

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    #21 2 years ago
    Quoted from Mitch:

    See I always use heat with no issues. Only had issues with freeze spray. Weird.

    Same here. The biggest trick is to frequentmy move the heat gun away and put my hand on the playfield. If it is too hot to put my hand down, the heat gun is too close/set too hot. Patience is the key. And you must avoid pulling off the mylar too fast, and only pull up where the glue has softened. Easy peasy.
    I used the same technique earlier this year to pull up my old vinyl kitchen floor with a heat gun.

    #22 2 years ago
    Quoted from wayout440:

    Same here. The biggest trick is to frequentmy move the heat gun away and put my hand on the playfield. If it is too hot to put my hand down, the heat gun is too close/set too hot. Patience is the key. And you must avoid pulling off the mylar too fast, and only pull up where the glue has softened. Easy peasy.
    I used the same technique earlier this year to pull up my old vinyl kitchen floor with a heat gun.

    Same here! I was chipping pieces off and busting knuckles on the floor when the pinball lightbulb went off in my head!

    #23 2 years ago

    Right on! Good thing you used a glue that didn't soak through into the mylar! That will be so much easier to clear now!

    #24 2 years ago

    Tuned it up. I’m pleased with results.

    Time to learn how to prep for spraymax2k. Read, read, read time.

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