I'm finally getting to the playfield on my Flash Gordon. The game has always played great, but the playfield is belt sanded down to the wood over the bonus count and pop bumper area. This is not uncommon for this title of game. So I'm getting into painting the playfield and I've done a couple of presentations about this subject matter for the Rocky mountain pinball showdown a number of years ago. I think you can still find some of that linked information on pinball news.com. so I'm starting out here by showing you what I'm doing in relation to materials and techniques.
I'll be adding more pictures as progress is advanced. If anyone has any questions, let me know and I'll answer them to the best of my ability. Also, I'm open to suggestions. If people watching this have some ideas of how I can do this better, I'd love to hear it. Thanks for the joining in , and let's get this game looking like a champ!
One of the first things I want to mention is that this technique may not be good for working with a clear coat. I'm using enamel paints. Depending on what kind of a clear you use, the chemistry may not work. In fact, the clear coat May reject the enamel paint all together. I haven't looked into this much, and if somebody is willing to test this out I'd be very interested to hear what they find out. Most people who are doing restorations with clear coats are painting with acrylic paints which are water soluble and very easy to work with. One of the reasons why I'm not working with acrylic paints is that some of the colors in particular yellows and oranges and reds will change their color and shade over time. Quite often they will dry in a darker shade and end up looking muddy. Enamel colors do not change as they dry and will dry within just a few minutes. Well enough to play a game on it if you really want to.
Other factors involved are due to the economics of space, safety, time and accessibility. All the materials shown should be readily available at any hobby shop. The cost of paints is nominal being one to five dollars per bottle. Russia should be of non-synthetic nature and need to be cleaned out at the end of each use. Paint thinner and in some cases not the our best for cleaning brushes as well as removing mistakes from the playfield.
Make sure to thoroughly clean your hands as well at the end of each painting session. I'd also recommend that you find a comfortable yet damageable set of clothing to wear while you're doing this. I personally have a couple of pinball painting shirts that have acquired over the years after realizing that I had gotten paid on them after I started a project. They're the best!
I'm sharing this information in hopes that other people will be able to restore more pinball games to their own satisfaction. I'm also willing to paint play fields for people if they are interested in having those services provided to them.
PM me for details on services.