Peace out.

There's a reason I didn't post pics here...mentioning them here was a courtesy so they don't get duplicated. But I'll go back to the old way of keeping everyone in the dark if it pleases the crown. Way too many touchy people here.

Thank you for the kind words, Mark. I look forward to continuing to help the pinball community attain the hard to find parts they need to keep machines not only running, but looking great! The three of us combining our different skill sets and experiences should make for a lot of satisfied pinball fans. As was touched on above, there is no playbook out there on how to successfully make pinball ramps. Tons of trial and error go into the process for each ramp, and no two projects ever seem to be the same. That is how I arrived at the Ramp-O-Matic name...a play on the fantasy that some magical machine spits out a finished ramp with no more than a idea and the push of a button. Reality could not be farther from the truth!

Right now I am specializing in some of the oddball ramps that do not have a ton of demand for bigger runs. I have a soft spot for System 80B games, as you may be able to tell. I currently work as a journeyman Tool & Die maker and CAD Designer, but I do not do mold work in my normal duties. I probably have a solid 25 years before I will be able to retire...so my time is somewhat limited in the ramp department compared to Larry and Mark.

Thanks everyone!

Yep, that is my problem child, but I think it will be worked out soon thanks to some great help from Freeplay40!

My 3/16" is .181", my 1/8" is .118" and I have some .100" that measures .091". I guess the nominal size includes the protective plastic?

I was going to do this at the beginning of the pandemic...but the guy that was going to loan me his hasnt been around to meet up. Im still willing to turn this around for someone if they have one I can borrow.

PM'd you.

If nobody else wants to do it, I am willing to take it on. I would need someone stateside with one I could borrow though. I'm always looking for small ramps to fill in around the big ones, which keeps the costs lower for all.

I didn't know the originals were in existence still...I made the Road Show ramps this summer.

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This mold looks super easy to separate into individual ramps. These pics are great, thanks for sharing!

On high production tools, they will drill passageways into the molds to run a cold water line through and help dissipate heat in the mold. This will allow you to get more parts per hour off the mold by allowing the parts to cool faster. Not much of a concern for us guys making 6-12 parts at a time...but if you are running a 1000 part order, time is money!

I have a local guy lined up to loan me his to make a mold from, but I have not gotten around to deciding if I can even do it or not. I am not sure if Freeplay40 has had that one his radar or not, but its definitely an interesting piece that may require some new techniques to make.

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I am sure its possible, but CNC cutting a ramp mold would be very costly. You would need to sell hundreds of them to get your money back.

I have someone lined up to send me a donor to make this one. This is a reminder that I need to have them send it over.

That main Radical ramp looks like it has a lot going on!

You're in luck, no need to beg any more...should be available in May.

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I highly doubt Stern patented the ramps. Max a patent is good for is 20 years, so any game before 2001 is already no issue.

The buildings are tough as it is. I

I got to play a Radical today, and I thought of him as I gave a closer look at the big ramp he is working on. Definitely a big, but worthy headache!

FYI if Cliffy is out, I have them. Gottlieb part number is 25056.

Me three...its been a great summer of not doing much ramp stuff for the first time in a few years. I painted myself in a bit of a corner the last two autumns with promised projects for some persistent customers. That will not be happening this year. I'll re-evaluate new projects in November at the earliest.

I clean the ramp decal thoroughly with alcohol, peel one side of the 3m backer off, apply the decal to the 3M material. Then trim around the decal with scissors or an x-acto knife. Then remove the other side of the adhesive backer when you are ready to apply.

If you have trouble getting the old goo off the decal all the way, Goo Gone will make quick work of it and not damage the decal. Just be sure to clean the Goo Gone residue off with alcohol before applying.

Ive had a couple "sweaty palm" moments myself when making ramp molds from an irreplaceable ramp I borrowed from someone. One way or another, it always works out though. As we have said many times, every new ramp project is different from the previous ones!