Fellow Freddy owners -- In the manual where it shows where the rubbers should go, I see on each side of the shroud/head spot targets it shows an 'A', designating a tapered rubber post. Am I correct in assuming that this only applies if you're not installing the shroud? When the shroud is installed with its metal bracket/holder there would be no room to fit any rubbers on those up posts.

I did ... powder coated it. Along with alot of other pieces. I will post pictures of my entire machine once I finish it.

Didn't know there were two styles well take that back i have seen one with led eyes. I have just the normal version which im fastening up a bracket system now to properly mount it. On mine the arms kept falling off so i gorilla glued the arms on and got a hat fedora for him, also picked up a nightmare on elm street sweater from the Halloween store and put on him.

Adrian : Cool buy man.. thanks for posting the pictures always nice to have reference pictures when working on stuff.

I will have to look at my manual not 100% I'm following you. Can you take a pic.. I'm not expert but could compare to my machine. I think what your talking about down near the freddy head there are targets that are the souls. On the same bracket that covers the head and targets to the left of that there is a post that does have a rubber on it or at least mine does. Maybe this is what your talking about ?

See the embedded image for what I'm talking about. Both those reference 'A', which on the same page of the manual is "Bumper, Tapered (BLK)". Once again I suspect these are used when the shroud is not, but wanted to get everyone elses take on that.
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Venom77 damn arms falling off not good as it would be travelling some distance to get to me, Maybe the other seller has better quality.

Adrian what did you pay for that i have heaps of spare parts but not a playfield. I paid 5k for mine in Oz but the playfield has no wear on it at all. And i got a massive box of spare parts if your missing something give me a shout out as i may have some spares.

Well what I mean by arms falling off is they are keyed and are made to pull on and off but over time they get a little loose so i just went ahead and glued mine together.

So for historical measures for people coming here in the future looking for info.

To see if the ramp glove is working: As someone mentioned somewhere on this thread. However i confirmed last night it works. As the self diagnose Gottlieb test doesn't work for the glove that i saw anyhow.

Anyhow basically just hit the trap ball so it hits the switch in the back then throw a ball down the hole/upkicker under the ramp near the glove. That will light a white claw on the playfield , and the ball upkick will throw the ball on the ramp and then hit the left flipper button and presto your glove will swipe at the ball.

So as I was testing my glove last night , I figured i might as well pull it off and fix the blades and repaint it. So been kicking around the idea for awhile i'm going to attempt to make the syringe glove from part 3 since most of this table is based around that movie anyhow. This is just a rough pic and the syringes need to be shorter but you get the idea. I figured i will try this and if they break down the road even after i reinforce them then i just do what everyone else does and make metal blades.

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Also trying to fix my Boiler room door. Cant figure it out , anyone more familiar with how to proper set this ? Attaching some pictures. So I tried to adjust the swing arm and or the other side where the metal pieces hit the switches. I cant get either to line up with the switches or when the door is at its lowest point. The swing arm is squared keyed so its not like you can just rotate it in any position. I have not tried taking the swing arm off yet and rotating it 90 degrees because you have to pull the solenoid next to it to get the nut off.

Here are some pictures. Anyone not familiar with the mechanics of what your looking at in the pic basically what happens is the motor turns which one side of the rod turns the swing arm with the little wheel on it and pushes the boiler door up. The other end of the rod there is a metal cam or piece that swings to hit either switch as noticed in the picture with the purple arrows.
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So fixed the boiler room door last night. Pulled boiler top playfield plastics to check for red opti lights nothing so then went back to the mechanical side of troubleshooting. Posting for knowledge. See picture and red arrow. I had to read through about 10 different post to find bits and pieces of knowledge. This worked for me anyhow. I put the machine in test mode and went to the boiler room setting. Hit start until the arm was all the way to where door would be closed. Then I just loosened the screw in the picture pushed the arm all the way up to the playfield/door shut. Then tighten the screw back down. When you start the game the door will go up and down even on the first nightmare shot. Either way it works now

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This is good info. I've noticed that mine does not go all the way up at the peak of the swing arm stroke either so I may trying fiddling with it as you did. Looks like a fairly simple adjustment process.

for the love of everything holy, DO NOT put hypodermic syringes in your pinball machine. i can't properly explain why, but just please don't.

I own a Freddy and was wondering if anyone knows what something like this should be worth as $500 Australian sounds expensive. Thats about $300USD.
https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/andrews-farm/collectables/robert-englund-signed-nightmare-on-elm-street-translight-pinball/1236697471

If you want your translite signed, Robert Englund will do it for $100 USD. Of course you would have to ship it and pay for it to be returned to you. Just go to www.robertenglund.com and click shop

Thanks heaps mate i really appreciate that i will think about it, should only cost me about $200USD in total.

Thanks for this information venom, I was just getting ready to reply to tell you how to adjust it but then I saw you figured it out. However the way I was adjusting my door was with that large nut on the end of the shaft that as you mentioned is only accessible after removing the solenoid to the right of it. Glad to hear there is an easier way.

Anyone else have issues with a ball getting stuck in the door when the door is on it's way up? Happens quiet frequent, all it takes is a ball being in the wrong place at the wrong time and boom the door aliment is off again. They should of put the arm on some type of clutch so that if a ball got stuck in the door, the clutch would slip, then as the door went down returned normal tension on the door. I was thinking of ideas to make something with some give. The easiest way I could think of is replacing the plastic round roller with a square shaped piece of plastic with a large spring on top of it. The spring is heavy enough to adequately push the door up during normal play, but if ball got stuck in between the door and the frame, the spring would give, allowing the spring to take up the play. Sure there is probably better ways out there but it was the first thing that came to my mind. I am tired of always having to adjust the door back up after having some friends over. It got to the point where I would just let the door where it is so a ball could not jam it anymore

You just saved me days. Thank you. Trying this fix on my door this weekend!

I posted a repro glove flipper on eBay today.

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Heading to ebay now!

I don't see it listed, or as recently sold. Did you pull it?

Does anyone know why the nightmares wouldnt Activate when u shoot into boiler room. Occasionally it will activate. Thanx

Someone said it might have to do with gobble hole in boiler. Sometimes it activates and sometimes it dosent. Boiler room optic is functioning 100% if that means anything.

Hi Guys,

New in the club, I just got Freddy Pinball, in really bad,bad shape, I guess it going to be a very long restoration process, its my firs Gottlieb in addition, Im looking for the manual and probably some parts, I will post pictures.

Regards,
Gustavo
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WOW!!! But good luck - it's a worthy pin of restoration.....Steve Young at Pinball Resources is your key guy for Gottleib parts...

Thanks man, long journey ahead, still looking the manual please, all head connectors are off, so I need to figure out where they go, a picture would help.

Regards,
Gustavo

Hi guys,

Im restoring Freddy machine, in desperately need of plastics in good condition, acrylic ramp, display acrylic, etc. Just let me know, shipping to Miami, Paypal.

Regards,
Gustavo

So this Freddy club is very quiet..... Anyway more stripping and cleaning, playfield is very rough but this is what I got, will try some touch ups with acrylic paint and a nice clear coat layer.

Here’re some pics of the process.

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Can't wait to see your progress in further posts!! This is an underrated gem worth the effort!

Looks like you got your work cut out for you. Look forward to seeing your progression.

If you can turn that baby around ill be impressed.

Im assuming you have to rebuild the cabinet as well?

Looking forward to more progress pics.

The cabinet its going to be reinforced, I actually like its patina, now im concentrating on the playfield and trying to get parts, but I will restore this baby what ever it takes!!

Will update off course.

Regards,
Gustavo

Freddy is sending his regards, stay at home!!

Gustavo
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that is cool

Brush your teeth kids!!

Gustavo

How's it coming a long Haggy38? Any new updates?

Not sure if you guys have seen this.....but Lyons Arcade based out of Rock Hill, SC did this over a year ago. He was missing the original house and decided to do this mod which is awesome.

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Anyone have a Freddy they want to sell near St Louis? Thanks

After looking over the playfield I really think the Jackpot inserts and Freddy shot inserts should be color coded. With the natural or cool white, it just blends in too much with the rest of the inserts. Not sure if others have done this.

I have a whole box of spare parts but i am in Australia.

Still cleaning and de rusting all metal parts, waiting for new parts and a friend it’s going to help with the playfield touch ups. Long project definitely.

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Good luck with the touch ups. The Purple can be a little challenging to match but not terrible. I used Acrylic for my touch ups in the past and it came out great.

I have a few bulbs that don’t light up, I know the bulbs are good. Has there been a problem with these old games with the sockets? They seem to turn when I put the new bulbs in???

Thinking of selling my Freddy NOS Translite i got from pinball resource years ago. If anyone is interested pm me.

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Considering buying a Freddy, but I see this curved circular line / cut on the bottom of the playfield, above the flippers. I've seen it on a few other machines, but I'm not sure if this is damage or just the style of the playfield? Any input would be great, thanks! G

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Mylar....nothing wrong at all

pm sent

Where do I find the Lost Souls faces rubber that goes under Freddy's head? I need it and other decals etc.