New! Dark mode!

Browsing Pinside at night? Getting tired of all the white? Switch to dark mode using the button in the top right (or CTRL-B)!

(Topic ID: 279687)

FPII Solenoids Not Firing


By JakeJones07

3 days ago



Topic Stats

  • 12 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by Spybryon
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 6 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

5E1BB7AF-4E71-4729-869F-8EC76FDF1635 (resized).jpeg
switch-trigger-solenoid (resized).JPG
16029532186223908498324784820306 (resized).jpg
16029531706516448564327895516503 (resized).jpg
IMG_20201017_114417 (resized).jpg
C1E35FCD-8E54-4E5C-A27C-93056489F601 (resized).jpeg

#1 3 days ago

I am new to the pinball world and recently picked up a FPII and it’s worked great for the last few months. However, I accidentally left it on for about 15 hours.

I can start a new game (ball gets kicked up to the plunger and games score correctly. However, flippers, pop bumpers, and sling solenoids will not fire (ball lock eject does work). I have 60ish volts on the flippers and 30v on the other solenoids.All fuses check OK and I reseated all driver board connectors.

The only other symptom I can determine is the board diagnostics says error “9” which corresponds to an issue the the coin door, memory protect fault, or IC19. DMM says Coins door works and game seems to remember settings. So I think this might be a red herring.

Anyone have an idea on what I can check next? Maybe a ground someplace or header to reflow?

Edit: I reviewed the device manual in more detail. It looks like the attached connector is suspect. I’ll reflow here. Any idea where ground is returned?

C1E35FCD-8E54-4E5C-A27C-93056489F601 (resized).jpeg
#2 2 days ago

look what you can do is with a cable test each tip 122, you ground it for a moment, this will make the solenoids go down or do their function, if they do their function and there is no problem, Do not worry that the tracks of the card or the wiring are bad, if the selenoids do not work then if they should be changed, also try to overheat the pins or change the transistors, I can send you a photo of which are the transistors that really have use in case you use them

#3 2 days ago

These are for bumpers and kickers

IMG_20201017_114417 (resized).jpg
#4 2 days ago

This are usted for outhole, ball ramp thrower, eject hole y flash lamp

16029531706516448564327895516503 (resized).jpg
#5 2 days ago

And the last ones that are below, are for the blue relay, which serves to flash the lights in general, blocked the door and the tumbre

16029532186223908498324784820306 (resized).jpg
#6 2 days ago
Quoted from Waxon:

look what you can do is with a cable test each tip 122, you ground it for a moment, this will make the solenoids go down or do their function, if they do their function and there is no problem, Do not worry that the tracks of the card or the wiring are bad, if the selenoids do not work then if they should be changed, also try to overheat the pins or change the transistors, I can send you a photo of which are the transistors that really have use in case you use them

I’ll give this a try. Which leg of the tip would’ve I jump to ground?

EDIT: Looking at other posts, it’s the tab I ground. I’ll give this a try.

#7 2 days ago

I was able to ground the bumper and sling tipps, and they all fire when grounded. However, they don’t fire in solenoid test mode.

Another symptom, I don’t seem to have power on the flipper buttons.

Any idea what to test next? Maybe an ic controlling the tipps?

#8 2 days ago

Looking at the wiring diagram and solenoid schematic page 2, the switch triggered solenoids are controlled here.

IC6 should be tested and confirmed working.

Do you have a logic probe? It's possible to confirm that IC6 is bad or working with a logic probe.

Start a game, probe the output pins of IC6 at pins 3, 8, 11, and 6 while simultaneously closing the switches of left and right slings, and the pops. Any output changes at those pins?

If IC6 checks out, move on to testing IC8, IC9 and IC7 with logic probe.

switch-trigger-solenoid (resized).JPG
#9 1 day ago
Quoted from Spybryon:

Looking at the wiring diagram and solenoid schematic page 2, the switch triggered solenoids are controlled here.
IC6 should be tested and confirmed working.
Do you have a logic probe? It's possible to confirm that IC6 is bad or working with a logic probe.
Start a game, probe the output pins of IC6 at pins 3, 8, 11, and 6 while simultaneously closing the switches of left and right slings, and the pops. Any output changes at those pins?
If IC6 checks out, move on to testing IC8, IC9 and IC7 with logic probe.[quoted image]

Thanks for the suggestion. I do t have a logic probe. But now sounds like a great time to get one!

While I’m waiting to receive it, I think there might be something else a play. While doing the switch test, I noticed that the pop and sling switches aren’t registering.

I think they show the switches that aren’t working going back to 2J13. If that’s correct, maybe I should be looking at IC6?

However, if inputs are a problem. Why would t my flipper still work?

#10 1 day ago

Special solenoids activation switches are not part of the switch matrix. Their scoring switches are. Move the pop hoop down manually or pull the sling arm out to test the switch matrix scoring switch.

Absolutely nothing to do with them not activating though.

#11 1 day ago
Quoted from slochar:

Special solenoids activation switches are not part of the switch matrix. Their scoring switches are. Move the pop hoop down manually or pull the sling arm out to test the switch matrix scoring switch.
Absolutely nothing to do with them not activating though.

Ahh! There’s two switches! I retested. Pop and slings switches are good. Thanks for telling me how to test them!

Looking through the schematics, since my flippers don’t work either, and aren’t controller by IC6. Would it stand to reason there’s a ground issue somewhere in the ground path I highlighted red? If so, should I be able to test continuity from each transistor/tip base to the ground pin of the connector they lead to?
5E1BB7AF-4E71-4729-869F-8EC76FDF1635 (resized).jpeg

#12 1 day ago
Quoted from JakeJones07:

Would it stand to reason there’s a ground issue somewhere in the ground path I highlighted red?

It's possible, but since you mentioned the ball lock eject and kicker to the plunger work, that doesn't seem as likely. Unless maybe you left P10 disconnected from J10 on the solenoid board.

With the game off and voltmeter set to ohms, measure continuity from ground strap in the backbox to J10 pins 1 thru 9, all those pins should have low resistance to ground. If that checks out, measure continuity from ground to the emitter legs of all the Tip122 on Q2, Q4, Q6, Q8, Q10, and Q12. I believe that the emitter is the right leg.

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 12.00
Cabinet - Other
Siegecraft Electronics
$ 17.00
From: $ 40.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
$ 33.00
Playfield - Decals
Metal-Mods
$ 22.50
From: $ 40.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
From: $ 20.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
From: $ 9.00
From: $ 18.00
Apparel - Men
Pinside Shop
2,000
Machine - For Sale
Mesa, AZ
From: $ 40.00
From: $ 5,899.00
Pinball Machine
Great American Pinball
$ 89.00
$ 79.95
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Super Skill Shot Shop
$ 44.95
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
PinBoss Mods
From: $ 179.95
Lighting - Interactive
Pin Stadium Pinball Mods
From: $ 99.99
$ 79.00
Cabinet - Armor And Blades
PinGraffix Pinside Shop
$ 69.95
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Super Skill Shot Shop
$ 269.99

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside