(Topic ID: 290495)

Found this Diner: a documented restoration

By zhu808

3 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 108 posts
  • 26 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by zhu808
  • Topic is favorited by 9 Pinsiders

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Topic poll

“New MPU or repair the old MPU?”

  • New MPU!!! 14 votes
    64%
  • Repair the old one. 8 votes
    36%

(22 votes)

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#48 2 years ago
Quoted from zhu808:DumbAss Thank you for building this incredible reproduction board for my machine. Stellar workmanship! I've installed both boards and hooked (almost) everything back up, but have decided not to turn the machine on just yet.
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Look at the workmanship on this board! It puts the original Williams boards to shame, and DumbAss is a real pleasure to deal with. Highly recommend.
[quoted image]
So... The first thing I did this morning, in between cooking eggs and rice and getting ready to mail off packages, was reinsert the CPU chip and game ROMs back into the MPU... Before putting them back, I tried to get some of the "goo" off the tops where I assume stickers used to be but had minimal success at best. In they go...
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Next, working the boards past literally 7 million connectors and wires and mounting them back into place. Fortunately I had all of the hardware, some of which was recovered from inside the cabinet...
MPU in.
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I.C. board in.
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Before removing the old boards, I bought yard sale price stickers and labeled each connector so I could find my way back. Mainly, it's easy to tell where things go judging by the positions they've stiffened into over the last 30 years, but... Why risk screwing up a nice new board?
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The more headers you connect, the easier things get, and before you know it, you're all done. I also installed new ribbon cables for the displays.
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Next step, I went through and installed all new fuses. I did this for two reasons: first, because some of them are old, corroded and/or shot, and second to check and see if the RIGHT fuses had been installed. Guess what? Several of them weren't the right fuses. I found 3-5 instances of over-fusing in this machine, but since I bought a lovely mint condition original manual, everything is now as it ought to be. High five!
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Another thing I need/needed to address are rewiring the connectors that had previously been burnt/melted. This is something I've never done before, so I took my time (and pictures of the wiring) and wired the new the same as the old. Of course. Pretty sure I did it right... In retrospect, I'm unhappy with the sloppy way I put the wires into the new connector, so I'll probably redo it. The second one actually seems like a small improvement.
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And last, but certainly not least, I could use a little help wiring up this last connector (J9). Here is the wiring diagram, and here is what I'm working with:
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Some sound advisement would be greatly appreciated. I think I could figure out where the wires go based on the diagram, but since this is literally all new to me, I want to know for sure. An explanation of the diagram would be very helpful.
I was going to plug in the machine and fire it up as is just to see if it comes to life, but when I went to plug it in, I noticed that someone has cut the ground off of the plug. I read on Vids thread that being in contact with an ungrounded machine and touching another nearby machine that's powered on can shock you. My main concern was possibly damaging the machine and the brand new, beautiful board.
I'll be rewiring the plug ASAP according to Vid's thread on how-to. Another thing I've never done before.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/replacing-line-cords-plugs-wall-sockets-vids-guide#post-1945106
And the journey continues: thanks for coming along!
-z
Briks-707 CaptNRetro cad-kid

Looking good! Nice job putting this back to the way it should be.

Maybe I'm paranoid and it isn't a concern but I'd cover those chip windows again.

#50 2 years ago
Quoted from zhu808:

Thanks! Why do you recommend covering these back up? Asking because I've got a lot to learn still. I was looking at them earlier, trying to figure out what they're encased in: silicone? And why there's a window to begin with: a way to see if the chip is burnt up or not?
I just want to remind people that the purpose of this thread is to document the restoration/repair process from the initial purchase to the finished* machine so that new enthusiasts can get an idea of what to expect and hopefully glean some useful nuggets of information from.
*Are machines really ever finished?

The window is how the chips are programmed and erased.

#54 2 years ago
Quoted from DumbAss:

<nitpick detail>
Strictly the window is how the IC is erased.

It is erased by exposure to UV light.
It is programmed with electric signals through the pins.

These EPROMs (erasable programmable read-only memory) are no longer manufactured but they are available for purchase from various merchants across the web.
An alternative (that I understand is still being manufactured) is OTP (one time programmable) EPROM. That's actually a misnomer since it is not possible to erase but the IC behaves like an EPROM and is electrically and signal compatible.
</nitpick detail>

Thanks for the explanation. Is it prudent to mask the window or not worry about covering it?

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