Twilight Zone for sale. Monterey Park, CA 91754 (just east of downtown Los Angeles).
$5,750. Not seeking trades at this time. Will consider paying for repairs instead of selling.
Lots of upgrades
4 electrical issues.
Otherwise solid, clean, & mechanically sound.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/2lj8fvzl1f8qe44/AAD8DvXycNYQFHyMWqi-apiba?dl=0

The cabinet is about an 8/10. Some fading/scratches/nicks. The PF I'd put at 9/10.
Tasteful LEDs throughout.


I'll start with the 4 electrical issues:
1 - Nagging switch matrix issue. Column 4 goes out. Sometimes after a couple of games, sometimes after a couple of months. U20 on the MPU is now socketed for easy replacement. Tried 2 different MPU PCBs (Rottendog & OEM); problem appeared intermittently on both--likely in the cabinet. Traced Green/Yellow wire around entire PF (from where it exits backbox umbilical): cut/loosened all cable ties on Green/Yellow in case it's shorting; replaced all 5 diodes on switches in Power mini PF.
2 - Occasional resets. Reset only a few times--a recent development. Haven't troubleshot beyond cleaning & reseating backbox PCB connectors.
3 - Audio used to change volume occasionally & would have snap/crackle/pop in low-volume callouts, especially during bonus count at end of ball. Performed the following & it's better (though volume will auto-vary a bit if you set the volume to 7 or lower, & there's still occasional crackle): new X9503P digital pot, new LM19875 audio amp, 8 new caps recommended per PinWiki, new data ribbon cable, new left speaker, new Kahr WPC MPU Power Fix Circuit PRO 12V supply.
4 - Rottendog clock has a bad opto or two. Was going to fix 1 & 2 before tackling this, as 1 & 2 might be taking out an opto.


#1 & #2 might take some labor to sort out. #3 has been tamed to where it's not a nuisance. #4 should be a straightforward fix--at worst, a replacement $72 Rottendog clock board if you just want to take the easy route.

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A summary of work that I've done on it in the last half year or so, under my stewardship (and a few items put in by the previous owner). Roughly $1k in parts & upgrades, not counting labor:
a) New leg levelers
b) Cleaned up leg rust by hand
c) Patched minor cabinet holes/nicks
d) Touched up cabinet paint at holes & other chips
e) Painted glass lock bar, side rails, & shooter rod housing with Rust-Oleum Hammered Black, then clearcoat spray
f) Cleaned up translite--it was taped heavily to a Plexiglas panel (instead of glass), a bit of tape remains
g) Tasteful color-matched LEDs (mostly Nifty frosted) throughout the whole machine, bright LED flashers
h) All new white rubbers
i) Pulled off a few key PF items for better access & then cleaned, polished, & waxed the PF
j) New steel balls
k) Left spiral aftermarket bulb sign kit
l) Pinbits door insert flasher kit
m) Pinbits gumball sparkle flasher kit
n) Plastic Pachinko "gumballs" into gumball machine
o) New upper right flipper entire assembly
p) Replacement score cards from Marco
q) Decal for cross-ramp ball diverter
r) Bonded on a pair of anti-bounce-out magnets on cross-ramp ball diverter
s) Polished Power Ball
t) New leg bolts
u) New blue Pincab protectors
v) New Great Lakes magnet flipper board (for right flipper, a GL magnet flipper board was installed on the left shortly before I bought it)
w) New left speaker
x) New backbox data ribbon cable
y) New X9503P DIP8 IC for audio board, to remove random volume increase/decrease
z) New LM19875 audio amp to lessen occasional crackle on quiet sound calls
aa) New Kahr WPC MPU Power Fix Circuit PRO
ab) 8 new caps on audio board per PinWiki recommendation for audio weirdness
ac) Great Lakes Modular opto PCB
ad) New backbox lock & keys
ae) Remote 3x AA battery backup
af) Newest 9.4H ROMs
ag) Replaced umbilical cable shroud from backbox to cabinet--stock one disintegrated
ah) New replay knocker
ai) New tilt plumbob weight
aj) Pinball Inc. DMD-HVP High Voltage Piggyback board on top of original Dot Matrix Controller Board