Upside down air spray can freezes it off. Removed 30 yr old Mylar before this way.

Heatgun or Canned air (Upside down to freeze adhesive). The idea is to either make it soft or brittle to pull up without removing anything with it.

You don't need special removal for the pinball life stuff...It peels off with no residue and a quick shine with Novus 1...not like the super sticky thick factory / automotive stuff stern uses on the playfield

When I got a PF install kit from Kruzman during my Funhouse restoration project this is the stuff he sent. I have been using it ever since (several years later it still looks perfect protecting the PF around the pops and drops on my FH). I like it because if you need to change it out or mess up applying it, it's easy to remove. Lays down nice and clear and at 3 mil's it's not too thick.

I buy it direct off amazon now: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00134DIII

I clean and wax the PF before I put it down. Can easily just pull it off later in that case. Edit - didn’t see the new page with the other responses.

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Thanks all for the tips about the mylar! I already had a 3ft section coming from PBL from watching Hurryup Pinball's video on the stuff but he missed how to remove it if needed. Thanks!

Beside the shooter lane, where else should we put down some mylar for this game

Well thanks to PinMonk i finally fixed the GI issue on my premium. After hours of troubleshooting and slow to respond Stern support via email, Victor personally helped me troubleshoot my machine and after a long search found the culprit to my “Node9 overcurrent error.” A freaking bulb socket shorting out the white GI. I really don’t know how Stern missed this error coming up. Look at this glob in the socket. So thankful to be able to properly enjoy the machine. Stern sending out a replacement socket today. I asked if they could throw in a Foo banner for the trouble but I didn’t hear back on that lol.

I can’t imagine what buyers who are just Foo fans would do in these situations. This was not an easy repair to figure out

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Looks like dog shit. The fact that this left the factory is complete horse crap and its a LE.

Note to PRO programmers .. in a dark room you can't see sh*t on the playfield when the extra ball is collected or you hit the lockdown button when its lit.

Are you saying that if you hold the flipper button with the machine powered on, you can tap the flipper with your other hand and it knocks down under power?

Correct @pinmonk. And, if I put my finger in the way of the flipper, when I press the flipper button the flipper just hits my finger and stops. If I do that on any other flipper, the flipper knocks my finger out of the way and smarts. This is why I was originally thinking it was something to do with the coil, but several folks said that coils either work or they don't, that it must be the coil stop. But that wasn't making sense to me. The comment from Desmodromic was the first time I read of anyone else experiencing something that sounds like what I am experiencing. All the other scenarios I found were about flippers staying up after releasing the flipper button and such. Any thoughts are greatly appreciated.

Which flippers do this?
1. All 4 flippers
2. Both left or both right (upper/lower)
3. Both lower (L/R)
4. Just one of the lower

It's on my Mandalorian Premium. It's only the upper playfield left flipper. The upper playfield right flipper and both lower/main flippers are working perfectly.

I know this might seem obvious but did you make sure the flipper was tightened

Well.... I didn't specifically check that, but would a flipper that is not tightened also move below the calibration point when not energized and/or move above the normal up position when energized? The flipper seems to stay within the expected bounds when energized and not energized. It just doesn't go all the way up when there is a ball (or anything) resting on it, and it only flips a ball with what seems like 10% to 20% of the power that it should. If I cradle a ball with the bad flipper, I can just barely get it to pass the ball over to the good flipper. I will pull the upper playfield and check the tightening this evening. Thanks for the suggestions.

I would check the switch stack for the left flipper button. If the second switch blade isn't making good contact, it can cause an intermittent connection which doesn't give full power (cycles rapidly on/off due to poor switch connection). So raise the playfield and look at the switch stack as you press the left flipper button. Is it *barely* making contact with the back blade when fully pressed? Try bending the back switch blade furthest from the flipper button closer to the middle blade (without touching the middle blade). See if that helps.

Another possibility is the nub embedded on the end of the blade is not flat, but worn at a weird point, which also makes poor contact. If that's the case, use a flexstone file to flatten it so it has a good surface. Compare to the other "good" flipper switch stack for a guide.

If the flipper is not in tight than the clasp holding it will grip or slip in different places. Sometimes it will get stuck all the way up and then fall back. It's like a two second check. Just try to rotate the flipper to see if it is going beyond the normal range.

It's amazing how the most frustrating things have the simplest fixes.

In my case, the coil stop was actually completely free from the bracket it was supposed to be riveted to. It wasn't just loose, it would actually fall into the coil sleeve. I believe the reduced power I was seeing was because it would at times hit the loose coil stop and shorten its travel. All I do know for sure is that with the new coil stop in place, the flipper no longer falters when held at full travel (with the flipper button) and has no issues with power after the coil stop replacement.

Wow, I have been having the exact same issue. I think I have narrowed it down to one of the three white GI lights on the backboard. Will have to go take a look inside the sockets.

The overcurrent thread here on Pinside would have helped in that case. 100% success rate so far.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/spike-2-node-9-overcurrent-protection-gi-failure-stern-jple

But yeah, Stern's QA is a JOKE when pins go out the door that have this error on first bootup.

That sounds identical to me. Those top three white bulbs are connected to these other. Pin 5 on CN15 connector on the Node9 board. I had a socket short out the whole set.

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I checked the switch stacks. The left one had a little bit more of a gap to the upper flipper blade, so I bent that to be closer to the middle blade. That didn't seem to make any difference. So, I took a couple videos to demonstrate what I am experiencing. The first video shows the normal travel of the flipper when there is no ball in play. You can see it seems to behave as you might expect. In the second video I start with the flipper raised, using my finger to hold the ball, then attempt a full flip. The flipper barely raises. Instead of hitting targets, the ball is passed smoothly to the right flipper. When the ball rolls back I attempt to flip again with the left flipper, but the flipper lightly touches the ball and stops rather than making a full stroke.

No ball flip:

Ball flip fail:

I would say EOS maybe, but the upper flippers don't have EOS. Have you measured the current getting to the coil? Also, have you compared the resistance of the left coil to the right to see if it's just a bad coil? If you have a multimeter, that's where I'd go next.

You could also switch the pins on the node board connector so the left coil becomes the right and vice-versa. If you do that and the problem travels to the other flipper and the left becomes fine, you know the issue is on the node board and not actually at the mini-PF.

I jumped over the overcurrent thread that pinmonk linked, lots of good stuff there. My sockets look clean. I took all three GIs out and am putting them back in one at a time. Problem is I can get a few games in sometimes before it goes in to overcurrent protection.

Took all three out, replaced only the first one on the left and it went a few games before throwing the error. I set that bulb aside and replace the middle and right. I need to get some games in to see how it holds up. If it does, I’ll replace the left bulb with a different one to see if it’s the bulb or socket.

Glad you found the problem with your pin.

You need to approach it methodically.
Step 1 - take out all GI bulbs on that string. Check for overcurrent, but if it doesn't report immediately, play a while before calling it fixed and putting them back. If you still need to test, leave them out.
Step 2 - remove just the pin for the GI string reporting the problem with overcurrent. If overcurrent goes away and stays away, then that's your target.
Step 3 - once you have the target string verified, check each socket for continuity. Once you find it, multiples will probably report it. Those are the ones you need to desolder and test outside the GI chain to find the actual culprit. Note that it could be more than one if you're really lucky.

Then when you have the problem socked isolated and removed (or replaced if you have a socket on hand) put the bulbs on the string back in.

I measured resistance on the left coil and it was within tolerance. I didn’t think to measure the current, though. I’ll swap the coils to see if that changes things, then try switching the pins on the node board. Will report back. Thanks for all the suggestions.

Ok. Not sure if I found a new bug or if it’s been reported I apologize.

Playing today I locked TWO balls in the overlord. Happen to shoot one into it and quickly a second one went in. I was on a 3 ball multiball. Everything seemed fine, except when I shot the Van shot. It locked the 3rd ball under the van, but the machine didn’t recognize it. The two others were still locked in the overlord. The machine went thru ball search and released the ball under the van. Continued playing and hit the van shot again, and again the machine locked it but didn’t recognize it. Went back into ball search.

After releasing both balls from the overlord, the van shot continued to lock the ball but not recognize it. Even after the other two balls drained. So back to one ball, on the same ball, and the machine consistently locked the van ball but would not award the shot. Eventually clearing it thru a ball search.

After that ball drained and I went to ball 3, the van shot then worked perfect again. Not sure what really happened with all that.

About an hour later, my wife and son were playing. On ball 2, during play, player 1, the playfield lights went out, the LCD screen got stuck with a picture of the van, the backbox lights stayed on, then the machine completely rebooted.

No errors. No technician alerts. Just rebooted and then played fine after.

Anyone else experience any of this ? Running latest code.

If it's any consolation, I consider myself a pretty decent player (have played leagues many times, collecting since 2012) and this is probably the most initially frustrating pin to shoot. SO many punishing drains bricking the left ramp and random slings. I'd say the two I had to "adjust to" have been Mando and AC/DC. This to me is tougher so far. It'll take time.

Locked up and rebooted 2X on me tonight. Also had some trouble getting into Hometeam. Wondering if a bad WiFi connection could cause it to reboot mid game?

Yeah, all great responses! I personally would have never called those Mylar solutions non-permanent, but I’ve absolutely been able to remove Mylar with freeze spray. The challenge I have had is the residue after the fact. Perhaps some of these other one have less residue than the older one I have.

More likely the garbage SD card Stern ships these with. Re-image a quality class 10 SD card and try that.

I can’t log into Insider Connected on my home machine. Wondering if their network is having issues

I think it’s all of Insider Connected. I couldn’t log into home team either. The site is lagging too.

Same, problems signing in to home team, now I can’t get insider to see if it recorded any of my scores or achievements. Was having my best pin playing night in weeks! Got to see a bunch of modes I’d never seen before, don’t even know what most of them were!

EDIT: Whew, it saved it everything!

Thanks. Yeah, I think I'm expecting too much too fast. I had my first really good game on FF tonight, got much further than I ever had before, and scored much higher too. Gotta have a good, lucky, "in the zone" game occasionally where it all comes together!

I was having trouble staying connected to IC tonight, and my game locked up once at the end of ball 1.

Same issue on my GZ. I think the server was down on Stern’s side.

Same with Elvira. Glad to know it wasn't just me.

Yeah , so my lower right flipper had a full blown orgasm while playing .I stopped for the night ,I’m working on another pin tomorrow night anyway ,but has anyone ever had the flipper shake like the chatter teeth toy .I was cradling while trying to think of the bug sequence (in NOs of course) when it just went off .I thought it was Tanio incorporating some voodoo code I didn’t hear about .Any suggestion would be welcomed and I’ll catch up tomorrow .

OK, I took everything back apart. Confirmed both upper playfield coils measured 4.5 Ohms. Reversed the coils, which of course reversed the buttons needed to flip, and the issue followed the coil. I measured voltage across both coils when energized and read 5V. Took it back to the table to put the coils back to their original orientation. It was then that I had both coils disassembled at the same time and noticed that the coil sleeves were different lengths. That isn't normal, right? The longer sleeve protruded from the coil a bit, fitting into the hole in the bracket where the plunger enters the coil. That's why the longer one is dirty at the tip. The shorter sleeve stopped flush with the coil. I reversed just the coil sleeves, and the problem moved to the right flipper, following the shorter coil sleeve.

Regardless of the coil sleeve length, when I move the plungers manually, they move smoothly through either sleeve until they make contact with the coil stop. So, have I found the culprit, or is this a red herring? Are coil sleeves supposed to extend slightly beyond the coil into the bracket, or are they supposed to stop flush with the coil opening? My testing suggests that the longer coil sleeve is the good one.

Note, this is a NIB machine. I'm the original owner.

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Yeah, that will absolutely cause problems. The coil sleeve is supposed to extend out of the coil a little bit on the end opposite the coil stop and feed through the hole in the bracket that's exactly the size for that. When you have the stop, then coil with the sleeve, then the metal bracket with the hole on the other end, the coil sleeve should be a little past flush with that bracket where the plunger feeds into it (see closeup on pic below).
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100% the coil sleeve should poke out a bit to fit in the bracket.
Looks like you have nailed it.

That's bizarre. I looked through the manuals for the other games on the line around the time my machine was built. Couldn't find any cases where they would have been using 2-1/16" coil sleeves, but it seems my machine had one 2-3/16" sleeve (545-5388-00) and one 2-1/16" sleeve. That or a defective part from their supplier. I'll shoot Stern an email and pick up some new sleeves. Thanks again all for the help. Will report back once I confirm that the new sleeve fixes (or not) the issue.

My AFMr flays as fast as foo. I was shocked when I feted one in a Barcade playing AFMr LE and MM.
So slowly ou could
Hear the ball rolling on the pine and almost have to pray it would land in its intended location. Fast and on the edge of control is where I like it.

Same. I was casually playing and put up one trillion on my first ball on FF and it lagged, I was afraid of was a glitch.

Seriously, I'm afraid someone is going to hack insider connected and post my shitty scores on the dark web for the whole world to see.

I really disappointed in the quality of the first Foos of the line. Disappointed with the lack of pride of workmanship. I would have gladly waited “another” week for it to be perfect.