Does it have opto switches under the flipper buttons on the cabinet?

Clean the inside of the U-shaped optos thoroughly, and then throw the game into switch edge test to make sure the flipper switches show up steadily and clearly.

If the problem persists after cleaning the switch optos, swap the little boards left-right and see if the problem moves to the other side.

RM

There's any easy way to tell if it's the button optos. Grab the flipper, then press and hold the flipper button. If it's working correctly, you'll feel a single tug on the flipper, then light steady pulling due to the hold coil. If the opto is bad, you'll feel a constant tug or buzzing and hear a hum. The GI will dim, too. The optos can often be cleaned, but if one's bad, you can buy the whole board for about $20 and change it without soldering.

The EOS actually does very little in a fliptronic game, because the system is designed to work without it if necessary. Experienced players might notice a subtle change in aim timing, but the play is otherwise normal.

Excessive slop in the flipper link is the other major cause of weak flippers, especially in the newer Stern games which don't have the EOS, or which have it but don't use it in the flipper coil timing.

There are 5 different strength coils; make sure both of yours are correct.

Loss of power is never caused by dragging of the mechanism parts. If anything is dragging, the flipper will tend to stay in the raised position, which will be detected long before any real power loss occurs.

Allan

Full flipper rebuild kits are generally a must-do upon any new acquisition.

RM

When you get an intermittent flipper opto switch, sometimes it's the interruptor, and not the opto itself.

RM

I agree completely.

I'm aware of the white ones allowing light through. I got some brand new ones like that. The solution was to color them black with a paint pen or sharpie. Was there another failure you had in mind?

Allan

That issue, and I have seen where the interruptor was only barely moved out of the way when the button was depressed all the way, I mean right at the edge where the light was only partially unblocked and it would "chatter" the opto switch open/closed.

RM

Flipper button optos and EOS errors only.

Yes and forget it.

I would do the basics, coil stop and bracket that hold the coil in a straight line and not leaning in or out ? A tiny bit of up and down play on the flipper so the pawl doesn't bind under the playfield ? Plunger assembly move freely ? The plunger - no sharp edge on the end that hits the coil stop ? Coil sleeve clean and no wear or cracked or broken ?

I'm sure one of the above, or more is the issue.

LTG : )