(Topic ID: 88871)

Fliptronic board bridge rectifier: Update still searching cause?


By silverball0

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 8 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 years ago by johnwartjr
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 5 years ago

My Getaway flippers are dead, all fuses are good, there is a slight pulse to the flippers when game is turned on, but that's it. Swapped board out of my creature and all is good.

I am thinking bridge rectifier bad, yet diode test on it shows good?

Thought I would ask before replacing it, if any one else has seen or had this problem.

#2 5 years ago

Sounds like you have bad transistor/s. I would test all components (transistors, diodes, rectifier, and IC's)Here's a couple links for troubleshooting.
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Testing_an_integrated_circuit
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#WPC_FlipTronics_I_.26_II_Boards
And for parts
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/

#3 5 years ago

Or you can just buy a Rottendog replacement board. Have one in my TAF, works perfectly.

Post edited by vilant: wrong name for board

1 week later
#4 5 years ago

Ok need some more help! Replaced bridge rectifier, fuses stay good, but both flippers energize and stay energized. Unplug J 904 and of course the flippers drop. tested tip36 and tip102 all seem good. Where to test next?

#5 5 years ago

Have you checked all the transistors on the flipper control board? How about the E.O.S. switches by the flipper coils or the flipper button switches, are they bent closed?

#6 5 years ago

When do the flippers engage?
Power on?
Game start?
Are the cabinet switches showing closed?
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The new place for pinball repair info

#7 5 years ago

E.O.S. switches are good, as well as cabinet. Flippers engage when game powered on. I swapped board from getaway to my creature and problem followed the board. so maybe both 339 got fried?

#8 5 years ago

I just fixed a stack of these. Very rare that the fliptronics board has problems.

From my experience, when there is a failure, U2 and U5 are common culprits. U4 and U6 are sometimes culprits and pretty easy to test. U1 is not a real common failure, but was zapped on 2 of the boards I repaired. On those, it seemed like solenoid voltage got shorted to the switches, but I can't be for sure as they were core exchanges on rebuilt boards I put in project games years ago.

Like anything, don't just shotgun, use your logic probe and schematic and do some testing and be sure you're replacing the right chip.

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