(Topic ID: 279585)

Flippin’ Flipper

By Drake88

3 years ago


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  • 16 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by Drake88
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552C44CF-3BBF-4476-BB0B-164F1513BB9C (resized).jpeg
#1 3 years ago

I’ve drove myself sufficiently crazy before writing this...
Road Show machine bottom left flipper quits after about five minutes of play, at which point everything else functions properly including other two left flippers..
Power off the machine and it’s as if it’s reset... functions fine again, for five or maybe less minutes.
I’ve resoldered the five connections a couple times, adjusted the EOS switch... and then eventually changed the EOS switch, always the exact same symptoms anything I’ve done.
I did a flipper rebuild that created the problem or at least it occurred right after I was done!
The only thing I haven’t changed is the coil itself which didn’t seem likely to me.
Anyone with help ideas I’d really appreciate!

#2 3 years ago
Quoted from Drake88:

Anyone with help ideas I’d really appreciate!

Thin wire from the coil to the coil lug broke or cracked you can't see ?

Broken diode leg you can't see ?

Try a new coil or swap left and right see if the problem moves.

LTG : )

#3 3 years ago

LTG - sounds like a plan! I’ll try that!

1 week later
#4 3 years ago

Finally was able to get a new flipper coil, and installed it tonight, now the problem is different. As soon as you touch the left flipper button the game resets...
I’ve found some other posts about the subject but wow they are long and involved.
Pretty certain there’s been no change to the wall power to affect the machine.
I’ve unplugged replugged lots of connections to no avail, but then I did discover J210 to be quite loose, feels like it could be intermittently making or breaking contact...?
Any help would be great!??

1 week later
#5 3 years ago

I purchased a 5v stabilizer sister board to connect to J210 on the cpu security board... That took care of the reset issue! Works like a champ.. but the lower left flipper still won’t move.
I’ve swapped the left and right circuit boards at the flipper buttons in the cabinet, but that didn’t change the symptom.
I was thinking about swapping the Fliptronics II board from my Whitewater machine into the Road Show to see if that cures it.?
Road Show board is A-15472-1
Whitewater board is A- 15472
Does anyone know if this is a recommended procedure or will I just ruin the Whitewater board not exactly the same??

#6 3 years ago

Almost sounds mechanical. When is the last time you replaced the flipper guide (white bushing) and I will assume you also replaced the coil sleeve for new when you replaced it? Finally, do you have a proper up and down gap/clearance so the flipper isn’t binding?

#7 3 years ago

I rebuilt the flippers when this began.. I'm fairly certain it's not mechanical, they are nice and free, easy to move, spring right back. All the pieces were changed out, the table bushing, the end stop, the coil sleeve, EOS switch and even the coil! Every solder joint on the flipper assembly have been re-done and checked.

#8 3 years ago

Are you sure you've soldered the wires to the correct lugs on the coil and sure the diodes on the coil are oriented correctly? Crossing a wire on the coil could cause the resets and the 5v stabilizer might just be masking the problem.

Incorrectly wiring the coil might also fry the diodes on it so check if they're still OK.

#9 3 years ago

koen - i will check but not sure of the reference to verify if i did...
I used a new FL-15411
Not sure of which lug for which wire I guess... maybe I crossed them? Does this pic tell?

552C44CF-3BBF-4476-BB0B-164F1513BB9C (resized).jpeg552C44CF-3BBF-4476-BB0B-164F1513BB9C (resized).jpeg

#10 3 years ago

Can you take a picture of the flipper mech?

#11 3 years ago

koen12344 - I found what I'd done wrong... THANK you, You were correct in that i had it wired wrong. I had put the coil in there backward with the lug plate down at the end stop plate end... so then the red and orange wires were soldered on the wrong lugs. It still won't work though after turning it around and re-soldering the wires back correctly, so I guess it fried the diodes?? I need to disconnect them to be able to do a resistance check, i think?

#12 3 years ago

I’d check the fuse on the fliptronics board. You likely took out the transistor (Q3) that drives that coil as well.

#13 3 years ago

Also forgot to add. After checking/replacing the fuse, and powering back on watch for that flipper to lock open. My guess is it will, cut power and replace Q3 or just go right to replacing Q3. If you wired backwards though it likely took out that transistor as well.

#14 3 years ago

Tlamb- F904 lower left flipper fuse is not blown... do you think it could’ve fried Q3 even though 3a fuse is not blown?
I had a spare coil but had soldered it in backward as well the other day, so later on I was going to “borrow” a known good coil from another machine to just test and see..

#15 3 years ago

Strange. I guess my situation is slightly different as I have a Rottendog fliptronics board. When I was putting my TZ back together after restoring, my picture I took got flipped, so I had mirror image and end up swapping the end lugs (not middle). Doing so it blew the fuse, I replaced fuse, turned on, flipper locked on. I knew the transistor was taken out. I replaced and problem was solved. Not sure what else is in Williams board that could have been damaged.

#16 3 years ago

Thanks for the help folks! I will zero in and find out if diodes, and or transistors are blown...
Really dumb mistake on a process I’ve done quite a bit!

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