(Topic ID: 232141)

Flippers fire with any other Solenoid - Capcom Pinball Magic


By xeneize

1 year ago



Topic Stats

  • 9 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by DMC
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

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#1 1 year ago

Gang:

I recently did some work to my Pinball Magic which involved removing the playfield to reach behind the ramp. Game was working perfectly.

Upon reassembly, any time that any solenoid fires, both flippers also engage. It is consistent across both sets of solenoids. Flashers, however are fine.

Of course, if I disconnect the flippers at the driver board the rest of the coils seem to operate as expected.

I have checked all my coils for a short. Diodes are not able to be tested in circuit, but I think it is unlikely that one just gave up the ghost.

Any ideas on what to trouble shoot next?

Thanks in advance!

#2 1 year ago

So, I just re-confirmed that all of my connections in the back box are correct and there are no visible shorts (I even checked under the apron).

Now, it seems like when in solenoid test, no matter which coil is triggered that the jet bumper will fire once and first. After that, the correct coil and flippers will fire simultaneously.

Does anyone know how the diode board in the cabinet interacts with the solenoids? I see no reference to it in my manual.

#3 1 year ago
Quoted from xeneize:

Does anyone know how the diode board in the cabinet?

Huh?

#4 1 year ago

What work did you do to it, and did it correct that problem?

open the coin door and let the game run self diagnostics and see what it says

#5 1 year ago

cody_chunn Self diagnostics reports no errors.

I was installing the huge plastic protector set from Pinbits which is a COMPLETE pain in the arse. A, simply because of how hard it is to access the rear-most plastics. B, because they were missing 1 out of 3 holes across the set for correct mounting.

So, yeah... plastic protectors installed, but game no longer works... that's pinball for you!

#6 1 year ago

thelaw edited my earlier post, thanks for pointing out that it wasn't clear.

#7 1 year ago

So, as I was racking my brain last night for what the root cause may be, I kept coming back to it feeling like a diode issue.

As it turns out, I examined the driver board connectors associated with solenoid power and the one at J15 looked sketchy... even for an IDC. So, I reseated all my wires using the correct tool and the issue was resolved.

Normally, I would convert all my header connectors to Molex crimped pins, but given the number of looped wires am not in any rush.

Just thought I would document the resolution here in the hopes it may help future travelers.

Thanks to everyone who weighed in!

#8 1 year ago

Just to further document the weakness of IDC connectors, I finally got the game playing again and after a slight nudge lost all flipper power.

Neither LED at 12 or 13 was lit. I expected to find blown fuses. Instead, they tested good. Turns out that J20 had several wires that needed to be reseated in the connector. Once those were reseated, flipper power was restored.

Bottom line is, IDC will always be inferior to a proper crimp.

1 week later
#9 1 year ago
Quoted from xeneize:

cody_chunn Self diagnostics reports no errors.
I was installing the huge plastic protector set from Pinbits which is a COMPLETE pain in the arse. A, simply because of how hard it is to access the rear-most plastics. B, because they were missing 1 out of 3 holes across the set for correct mounting.
So, yeah... plastic protectors installed, but game no longer works... that's pinball for you!

Did you know you can lift the whole playfield up and out so it’s balancing on the brackets - then either lay the wheels back on the lip under the dmd on a towel or do what I did and rest the kicker mechs on the receiver mechanism. You can then access all the back area easily.

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