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(Topic ID: 273356)

Flipper underpowered after rebuild. Why?


By token84

3 months ago



Topic Stats

  • 13 posts
  • 8 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 months ago by chuckwurt
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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    5DC22342-FDD8-4A84-834B-5F9F271A8A35 (resized).jpeg
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    #1 3 months ago

    Hi. I have a 70's Bally EM machine and the flipper that I rebuilt is underpowered and very noisy compared to the original/pre-existing. The pre-existing one has about a 1/16" gap that creates a green spark and is less noisy. It kicks the ball about 3/4 of the way up the playfield that is at about a 4.5 degree angle. That wasn't high enough so I replaced one side with a flipper rebuild and there is something that I must have done wrong.

    The side that I just rebuilt is worse than the pre-existing side as the newly rebuilt side:
    * Only tosses the ball 1/2 way up the playfield
    * The coil when ball holding is very noisy with buzzing
    * The rebuilt flipper was a good kit (flipper bushing, plunger spring, nylon ring on the plunger)
    * The rebuilt flipper has a large blue white spark, yet still kicks only 1/2 way up the playfield
    * I've had no tap and 1/8" gap on the end of switch and both only kick 1/2 way up the playfield
    * The rebuilt flipper uses a plastic coil sleeve and I loosened and retightened the coil stop hoping that would fix the buzzing (it didn't), but there is not much play in the coil sleeve

    Thank you in advance!

    IMG_3925 (resized).jpgIMG_3924 (resized).jpg
    #2 3 months ago

    The EOS switch is opening way too early. Have it gapped like this instead. Maybe add spring washer to fix the buzzing. Not sure there’s a catch all solution there.

    5DC22342-FDD8-4A84-834B-5F9F271A8A35 (resized).jpeg
    #3 3 months ago

    You could drive a truck through that gap in the EOS switch!

    #4 3 months ago

    Are you sure you wired the eos to the correct parts of the coil?

    Proper spacing between the bushing and crank?

    Plunger not dragging on sleeve?

    Sleeve reaching far enough through the bracket?

    #5 3 months ago

    I second the EOS gap theory. Waaaay to big/early. Also, your EOS looks oddly bent in your photos.

    #6 3 months ago

    Interesting. It came with a spring washer, but I didn't know how it was used since it's not on the other side. It's a spring washer because it's concave/convex... Where should I place the washer, between what two objects?

    I'll look at some pictures of switch adjustment. The 1/8" gap opening is for old EMs too? It should be that gap when it hits the stop?

    Thank you!

    #7 3 months ago

    Those EOS switch blades are obviously bent and the contacts are way out of alignment when closed. Replace the EOS switch with a new one. The contacts don't look horrible on that one, but the blades are bent too much. Start over.

    Order one for the other side too. All the power for the flippers goes through those switches. 1/4" is fine for EM's. Contacts have to match flush when closed. Less than 1 ohm resistance when closed.

    #8 3 months ago
    Quoted from token84:

    The 1/8" gap opening is for old EMs too?

    Yes. The eos switch is telling the game to switch from high power to low power. Once it opens it switches to low power. The earlier that happens, the weaker the flip.

    Spring washer goes between the coil and the coil stop I believe.

    #9 3 months ago
    Quoted from chuckwurt:

    Spring washer goes between the coil and the coil stop I believe.

    Goes on the other end of the coil to press it against the stop.

    #10 3 months ago

    I see the hint of diodes on the flipper coil - is this one of the EM's with bridge rectifiers for certain coils? If it's straight AC there'll always be a little bit of buzz, and you should take the diodes off the flipper coils.

    #11 3 months ago
    Quoted from slochar:

    I see the hint of diodes on the flipper coil - is this one of the EM's with bridge rectifiers for certain coils? If it's straight AC there'll always be a little bit of buzz, and you should take the diodes off the flipper coils.

    Afaik, the only ones that have DC flippers that are late gottliebs and foreign games, never Ballys. I also don't see the diodes you're referring to though.

    Some buzz is unavoidable, but the spring washer should help.

    #12 3 months ago

    oh, that was chuckwurt 's example pic didn't realize that just looked at the pic.

    I put the spring washers between the bracket and the coil, not the coil stop and the coil. Makes sense the way black_knight explained it.

    #13 3 months ago

    Yeah between the bracket and the coil makes sense to me. I wonder why the modern games do between the coil and coil stop?

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