The pull-in winding (thicker wire) is OK at 5 ohms.

You should see 40 volts at coil common, and the hold winding (thin wires) should be shorted by EOS switch. When the other side is grounded via flipper button and relay, pull-in winding is energized, making the flipper go up. And when the flipper is up, EOS switch opens, making the current go through both windings to prevent overheating.

Check the coil connections and EOS switches.

Double down on what Tuukka says about the EOS switch.

The contacts should be filed shiny, and they should very firmly squeeze together until the action of the flipper separates them.

There isn't too much else in the circuit that could be starving your flipper of power, so let us know what you find!

So, some possible things.

Prior work is always worth looking at, even if it's your own work!

So, brand new EOS means brand new switch contacts. I'd file them a bit, make sure I've got raw metal touching raw metal without any coating in the contact.

I'd double check my solder. I have been soldering since I was six years old, at least two or three times a week, and I STILL double check my soldering.

I'd double check that the EOS wires are on the right terminals. You have two diodes on your flipper coil. The power is coming in on the end terminal that has the band of the diode connected to it. This terminal should have one wire to your End of Stroke switch wire soldered to it. The middle terminal with the other side of that diode should have the other End of Stroke switch wire soldered to it.

Look carefully at the working flipper for how the End of Stroke wires are connected, and make sure both sides have the End of Stroke switches wired in the same way.

TUG on the end of stroke wires, and make sure that your wire isn't broken inside the insulation where you can't see it! Sometimes you will tug and something pulls apart. This is pretty common!

What you are describing is a power winding of a flipper coil that isn't getting power, while the hold winding is.

The power winding get's it's power through the End of Stroke switch, so that needs to be checked very carefully. Anything wrong with the End of Stroke switch and it's wiring can cause the power winding of the flipper coil to not have power, and not pull the flipper plunger in.

Other problems that can cause this are very, very rare, so let us know what you find!

Your coil or EOS switch is wired incorrectly.

If the plunger stays in when manually pushed, it is not because of EOS, but because the hold winding catches the plunger when it is in enough.

The EOS switch does not energize any windings, instead it shorts out the holding winding (letting all power to pull-in winding) until the EOS opens.

A much better description than what I was thinking. Thanks Tuukka!

Have you reflowed the J1, J2 and flipper relay connections on the solenoid driver board? One of them could be cracked.

Are the associated header pins and connector contacts new or in very good condition?

It could be that a bad connection or something is limiting the current in the affected flipper circuit. You could read the correct voltage but the current allowed is not enough to pull in the flipper.

Please don't get shocked by trying this on a live circuit! At this point I would take a clip lead and jumper the green wire on the left flipper coil to the orange wire on the right flipper coil. Then try the right flipper button. If both flippers fire properly then the problem is with the left flipper circuit that probably is off the playfield. If the left flipper still didn't fire properly the I would suspect something with the left flipper circuit on the playfield. If both flippers did fire when pressing the right flipper button, try pressing the left flipper button. If both don't fire you have confirmed the problem lies in the left flipper switch or left circuit through the solenoid driver board.

Another possibility is the wire connecting the +43V wire from left to right flipper coils. You could eliminate this by jumpering this wire of the two coils together and seeing if that corrects the problem.

Do you have a manual.It looks wired wrong to me.

Since the pull-in coil is marked 3.1 ohms, current is 43/3.1, or about 14A. The voltage drops a few volts under load, so actual current may be less. Also contact resistances on relay, connectors, flipper button and EOS switch decrease the maximum current a bit.

The plunger - if sitting too low in the coil, you won't get a full whack when the coil is energized.

That the correct plunger and coil stop ?

LTG : )

Th behavior you described would be happening if a EOS would be permanently open. So you always would have the weak "hold" power (both parts of the coil active) And never the strong push power (hold winding shortened, only the "push" part of the coil active)

Shorten EOS e. g. with tweezers and look if flipper moves when button pushed. Will not harm anything if you only test for a short blink of an eye.

this flipper that isn't energising/operating correctly.......can you lift the actual flipper from the top of the playfield up and down say a 1-2mm, so I'm asking if you have any 'play'?

are you 100% sure it's mechanically free?

you did mention that your meter is showing the EOS opening and closing, but even new EOS switches, although closed and look to be closed can have an infinite resistance. I don't suggest filing new tungsten contacts but clean with a solvent or running some 1000 grade wet and sand paper will remove any residue.

have you verified that when the EOS switches are closed you are reading zero ohms resistance and/or have continuity.
you need to remove a wire from the EOS switch to test this, or from the coil.

also when manually operated, what gap do have on the EOS?

Left flipper moved when you jumpered orange to green but does not move without the jumper. That could indicate extra resistance in the left flipper switch circuit.

Did you try jumpering the hot side of the two flipper coils together, and see if the left fires? Could be two problems contributing to the symptom.

Did you have this problem before replacing the flipper coils?

You might want to recheck all solder joints to make sure none are cold. You can't reliably test them by ohming them out because they can show continuity.

BTW: Whoever asked about the gapping on the switches - do you know what it really should be for this particular machine? I was simply shooting for what I 'felt' would be about average for that type of switch and functionality...
Thanks!

regarding gap of EOS when flipper energised, 1/8 .

GREAT NEWS!

Congratulations, this is one of the hardest to solve problems in pinball.

Nice job finding it!

Because you have voltage and continuity if measured.

The single strand doesn't let enough power through for the coil to fire.

LTG : )