(Topic ID: 170398)

Flipper sluggish F14, Sys 11


By kilmarnock1350

2 years ago



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  • 9 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by dsuperbee
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#1 2 years ago

Top left flipper is sluggish, nearly no power, and it gets stuck/slow to return.

I've checked continuity of the diodes, continuity of the EOS switch, and it does have the 50+ volts when you hit the flipper switch, identical to the other flippers.

The flipper moves easily by hand, so it's not a mechanical issue. Has to be electrical.

Anything to try before swapping out the coil? The coil "looks" ok, and is nearly new. <100 games on this coil.

Thanks for any thoughts.

#2 2 years ago
Quoted from kilmarnock1350:

it gets stuck/slow to return.

Well that's not good. That's usually not electrical related, I'm thinking you might have a return spring problem or binding problem mechanically. Does it return to idle position when you manually hold it up and release it? It should do this consistently whether the power is on or off, so try it both ways.

Regardless of the fact that you have the +50VDC present, it's the current (amps) that do the work. Did you try cleaning/filing the EOS contacts and cabinet switch contacts. More than half the time a problem with those not getting excellent conduction will rob the flippers of power. Also, make certain that the EOS doesn't open up too soon, and that it is properly gapped to open up at the very end of the stroke. I highly doubt the coil itself is the problem - possible, but not probable.

#3 2 years ago
Quoted from wayout440:

Well that's not good. That's usually not electrical related, I'm thinking you might have a return spring problem or binding problem mechanically. Does it return to idle position when you manually hold it up and release it? It should do this consistently whether the power is on or off, so try it both ways.
Regardless of the fact that you have the +50VDC present, it's the current (amps) that do the work. Did you try cleaning/filing the EOS contacts and cabinet switch contacts. More than half the time a problem with those not getting excellent conduction will rob the flippers of power. Also, make certain that the EOS doesn't open up too soon, and that it is properly gapped to open up at the very end of the stroke. I highly doubt the coil itself is the problem - possible, but not probable.

Has to be electrical... without power, the flipper moves 100% freely in and out... the spring has tension, it's almost as if the coil maintains a SMALL amount of juice and holds it in. When it is "holding it in" you can move the flipper freely.

I'm kinda baffled. Will clean the cabinet button contacts, already cleaned the EOS, and ensured continuity THROUGH the EOS. I played with EOS gap, and it made no difference.

Also going to resolder all connections on the coil.

Baffled!

#4 2 years ago
Quoted from wayout440:

That's usually not electrical related

Ok. Turns out I THINK you're right... the link between the crank and the plunger is badly mushroomed (see picture). This is a brand new flipper rebuild kit... less than 50 games.

When the link pivots, it catches the plunger and binds in the flipper up position.

I'm thinking the coil stop is too short allowing the plunger to go to far in to get damaged. However those coil stops were replaced as well.

Thoughts?

IMG_9512 (resized).JPG

#5 2 years ago

Ah, well you seem to be on to something. I'm more electrical than mechanical. I will tell you that sometimes I have found situations like this to have some part or another too tight. Sometimes not enough vertical play in the flipper bat shaft, or something along those lines. Can you take the parts out and compare them to a working flipper, maybe something else is slightly different. Perhaps someone else can jump in here with some better ideas.

#6 2 years ago

Maybe try a longer coil stop? I just rebuilt my sys 11 game with no issue from a kit from PBL. If you look at this picture, the plunger link looks diffferent than yours. Maybe you got a slightly different part that isn't quite fitting?

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=976

#7 2 years ago
Quoted from wayout440:

Ah, well you seem to be on to something. I

Quoted from wayout440:

I'm more electrical than mechanical.

wayout! Thanks! I know you're an electrical genius. You've bailed me out a few times... both directly and indirectly (reading others' questions).

Thanks.

#8 2 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Maybe try a longer coil stop?

Yes... I hate buying "kits" that aren't exactly right... I get it... there are MANY different games/combinations.

Thanks for the link.

#9 2 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Maybe try a longer coil stop? I just rebuilt my sys 11 game with no issue from a kit from PBL. If you look at this picture, the plunger link looks diffferent than yours. Maybe you got a slightly different part that isn't quite fitting?
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=976

The op used a WPC style flipper kit, not a sys 11 kit. (You can tell as a sys 11 uses a compression spring, not an expansion spring).

Op: did you put the insert (metal ring) into the link when you did the rebuild?

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