(Topic ID: 276287)

flipper sleeves

By the9gman

3 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 14 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by Tuukka
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

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    #1 3 years ago

    was playing a game tonight and all of a sudden the left flipper just died. opened up the machine and the flipper coil was extremely hot and the slug did not travel very well seems the coil got so hot it melted the sleeve. The EOS switch either not opening in time or arcing caused the problem. Took the coil out and could not get the sleeve out ....Had to actually put it on the drill press to get it out. Checked the coil out and it tested the same for ohms as the one still in the machine for both coils. Put a new sleeve in it and adjusted the EOS switch and had it working again. I guess you could say I'm glad the sleeve melted to alert me of the problem before the coil burned up. Question is ....is there something you can put on the outside of the coil sleeve to keep it from fusing to the inside of the coil ? If I had a brass sleeve it probably would have fried the coil

    #2 3 years ago

    Bueller .......Bueller .....anybody .......Nobody .......

    guess I'll take that to mean nobody has ever had this problem and there is nothing on the market
    gona try some brass tape outside the sleeve

    #3 3 years ago

    Happened to me once , took another sleeve and tapped the old one out with a hammer, didn't see the need to find an solution as its only happened once.

    #4 3 years ago

    Mine was completely fused to the coil plastic was surprised the coil still read good but I will probably replace it when I get a chance

    #5 3 years ago

    There isn’t anything to prevent a sleeve from fusing to the coil. If it happens it means something else failed and odds are the coil is bad.
    You got lucky and caught it in time, but that is rare. If there was a case where I couldn’t get it out I replace the coil.

    #6 3 years ago

    FWIW, this has not been a common enough occurence for me, over years of owning EM thru modern games, to worry about. I clean and/or replace coil sleeves every so often depending on amount of play and deal with a bad coil if it happens - which has been rarely.

    #7 3 years ago

    Inserting a fuse in series with the EOS switch may prevent this. 3-4 amp slo blo would probably work.

    #8 3 years ago
    Quoted from Tuukka:

    Inserting a fuse in series with the EOS switch may prevent this. 3-4 amp slo blo would probably work.

    No it won’t.

    #9 3 years ago

    Replace the coil and the sleeve. Try to figure out why the coil overheated like that.

    #10 3 years ago

    Do you mean the power winding does not draw enough current to blow the fuse, if held continuously energized?

    #11 3 years ago
    Quoted from Tuukka:

    Do you mean the power winding does not draw enough current to blow the fuse, if held continuously energized?

    Correct. A Bad EOS doesn't increase the current or let it spike.
    It sustains the 'correct' amount of flip current through the hold process. Continuous current held over a long period or during long play, will heat up the copper coil and eventually melt it.

    I'm not an EE, so please excuse my vocabulary.

    Even a properly set up flipper coil can get warm, take away the EOS and they can get hot very quickly. Look at some of the old threads about LOTR flippers and how they degrade during a long game.

    #12 3 years ago

    A bad (not opening) EOS certainly increases the average current to flipper coil. When the flipper button is pushed, the EOS switch is closed, bypassing the hold winding causing the power winding to get full power for a strong pull. Very slightly after that, coil pulls in, EOS switch opens and then (much smaller) current flows through both power and hold windings. That continues as long as flipper button is kept pressed.

    If the EOS switch does not open, coil current continuosly flows through only the power winding because the hold winding is shorted by the EOS switch.

    A slow blow fuse in series with the EOS switch will not blow even if the power winding current is much larger than the fuses rating, because it only lasts a very brief moment between flipper button press and flipper getting up. When the EOS functions correctly, current almost immediately drops to a level below fuse rating. But if the EOS switch does not open, the power coil current will continue and the slow blow fuse blows in a few seconds.

    #13 3 years ago

    Again I’m not an EE but not sure how a slo blo would work here. I don’t know how you find the right amperage that would allow the coil to work properly over the long run and guarantee to blow if there is a malfunction.

    The best answer is still to install properly adjusted EOS switches.

    The only time I’ve ever seen a Flipper coil go bad like this is when a previous owner bent up the EOS or installed it wrong. They don’t just go bad in the time between regular maintenance.

    #14 3 years ago

    OK. Actually, I am an EE and quite confident on how a fuse works. The slow blow fuse is just for this kind of circuit. It allows a large current spike to flow if it is short enough (as when the flipper pulls in), but opens if the current stays high for a while - as when the EOS does not open.

    Of course, it is best to make sure EOS switch operates correctly. But a fuse prevents coil overheating just in case of EOS switch failure.

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