(Topic ID: 77364)

Flipper rebuild / upgrade advice on Elvira 11722 or 11630?

By BadBrad97

10 years ago


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  • 21 posts
  • 9 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 10 years ago by Gerry
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2014-01-30 12_16_22-Full Flipper Assembly For Williams_Bally Machines from 02_1988 To 11_1991_ pinba.jpg
Flipper-899.jpg
#1 10 years ago

I need advice on my flippers on Elvira. They are a mess and in need of total rebuild, new coils, EOS, get rid of compression spring, etc.

Here is my question:
It currently has 11722 coils which are weaker than the 11630's that are supposed to be in it, but it plays "OK" even before the rebuild. I am able to make the ramps fine. Should I stay with the 11722's or go back to 11630's?

#2 10 years ago

If you're happy with it why change I guess, but personally I prefer sticking with stock coils, the game was designed for them. I rebuilt mine to lose the compressing spring and use the WPC style though.

#3 10 years ago

Be sure to replace the cabinet flipper switches as well.

They carry the full flipper voltage so they need to be clean and new.

RM

#4 10 years ago

An 11722 is significantly weaker than an 11630. They may play okay for one or two games, but if you have company over and the game gets played a lot, the left ramp is going to get extremely hard when the right flipper coil heats up. I considered upgrading the 11630's in my EATPM just for this reason. Even with factory 11630's, the left ramp would get hard at the end of league night. I ended up selling the game instead.

#5 10 years ago

Ok. Ordered 11630s since it seems silly to not even have it as strong as factory (thought maybe there was an Elvira reason). Ordered the works including flipper switches. I will have about $6000 in this thing by the time I am done with it.

And OMG every t-nut on the playfield was locktighted or superglued. Who does that? Almost every one broke, stripped or was unusable. Somewhere there is a retired route guy who is laughing his head off right now.

I went though my entire bag of (the correct) spare posts. There were at least 10 of them at $4 each.

Rant over....

#6 10 years ago
Quoted from BadBrad97:

And OMG every t-nut on the playfield was locktighted or superglued. Who does that? Almost every one broke, stripped or was unusable.

Heat those up from the backside with a micro torch or big soldering gun and they come right out.

#7 10 years ago
Quoted from BadBrad97:

I will have about $6000 in this thing by the time I am done with it.

That's nuts, how did you even manage that? I bought mine badly routed for $900, put maybe $1000 in parts into it, and a lot of time and work restoring the playfield, but I can't imagine finding another $5000 to do.

Quoted from BadBrad97:

And OMG every t-nut on the playfield was locktighted or superglued. Who does that? Almost every one broke, stripped or was unusable.

Ugh, I hear that, I had the worst time with t-nuts on my Elvira too. Had to brute force rip and cut some out. (Edit: damnit vid, now you tell us ).

#8 10 years ago

Also another trick you could have was just order complete new WPC type assemblies with coils included for about $40 each and be done with it forever. )

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=172

Or build up a set like Vid's Guide to rebuilding flippers shows.

#9 10 years ago
Quoted from BadBrad97:

Ok. Ordered 11630s since it seems silly to not even have it as strong as factory (thought maybe there was an Elvira reason). Ordered the works including flipper switches. I will have about $6000 in this thing by the time I am done with it.
And OMG every t-nut on the playfield was locktighted or superglued. Who does that? Almost every one broke, stripped or was unusable. Somewhere there is a retired route guy who is laughing his head off right now.
I went though my entire bag of (the correct) spare posts. There were at least 10 of them at $4 each.
Rant over....

Normal for a lot of sys 11 games for loctite on the t-nuts. I just saved myself the hassle, ordered new tnuts, posts, and took a dremel to the top of em, then hammered what was left out of the pf. For me it was a time vs money factor, and I hated trying to heat the tnuts, and then still have em snap.

#10 10 years ago
Quoted from Aurich:

That's nuts, how did you even manage that? I bought mine badly routed for $900, put maybe $1000 in parts into it, and a lot of time and work restoring the playfield, but I can't imagine finding another $5000 to do.

Sorry. I couldn't find the exaggerate smiley face.

I am going to have closer to $3000 in it though. But it is actually turning out really nice. I have it back together as of last night and played few games. Other than the new coils and a few plastics that need the rivets drilled to install it is pretty much done.

#11 10 years ago
Quoted from BadBrad97:

Sorry. I couldn't find the exaggerate smiley face.
I am going to have closer to $3000 in it though. But it is actually turning out really nice. I have it back together as of last night and played few games. Other than the new coils and a few plastics that need the rivets drilled to install it is pretty much done.

Heh. Sounds super sweet, a deserving game.

#12 10 years ago

use the FL11629 from the WPC games.. they are perfect for your application, a bit stronger than 11630's

630's were usually used on upper flipper assy's and the 629 for the lowers from the factory...

I have used 629's in all my sys11 stuff and upgraded all of my WPC's upper flippers with them as well..

you wont be disappointed at all

1 week later
#13 10 years ago

So if I were to order this, would that include everything I need for a rebuild with exception of flipper bats? http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=717

Would I need any other parts at all (maybe included on this)? http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=980

Sorry, this will be my first rebuild & there are no local shops I can go to - mail takes a few weeks to get to me, so I'd rather pay a little more & ensure I have absolutely everything needed to rebuild & not be short any parts - thanks.

#14 10 years ago

The first link would be everything you need. Plug and play.

The only thing I would change is for a few dollars more, switch out the compression springs by adding the bracket (looks like it may already be included) and other spring.
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-9376
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/10-364

Flipper-899.jpgFlipper-899.jpg

#15 10 years ago
Quoted from ozuba:

So if I were to order this, would that include everything I need for a rebuild with exception of flipper bats?

You also need one of these for each flipper:

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=270

Step by step:

http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-upgradingrebuilding-flippers

#16 10 years ago

I thought the Pinball life kit included everything.

2014-01-30 12_16_22-Full Flipper Assembly For Williams_Bally Machines from 02_1988 To 11_1991_ pinba.jpg2014-01-30 12_16_22-Full Flipper Assembly For Williams_Bally Machines from 02_1988 To 11_1991_ pinba.jpg

#17 10 years ago

Awesome, thanks guys - a kit, a bushing, a spring, and a flipper bat for each side. I am hopeful that the new spring setup will work, from the picture it looks like it should.

#18 10 years ago
Quoted from BadBrad97:

I thought the Pinball life kit included everything.

2014-01-30 12_16_22-Full Flipper... 28 KB

The rebuild kit does not, the entire flipper mech kit does.

I hope that is clear, lol.

#19 10 years ago

Wow, thanks for both the catch & clarification, I missed that . If I go the full flipper assembly route, I would only need to add a bat & the new spring (not a bushing), correct?

#20 10 years ago
Quoted from ozuba:

Wow, thanks for both the catch & clarification, I missed that . If I go the full flipper assembly route, I would only need to add a bat & the new spring (not a bushing), correct?

Correct. Full flipper route is complete except the extra spring.

#21 10 years ago

pick the 11629 coil

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