(Topic ID: 175750)

Flipper rebuild ... Roll pin removal


By Chum43

3 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 19 posts
  • 14 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 months ago by northvibe
  • Topic is favorited by 4 Pinsiders

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There have been 6 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

Roll pin starter punch (resized).JPG
Gun bench block (resized).JPG
Rpunch (resized).jpg
IMG_0514 (resized).JPG
IMG_0513 (resized).JPG
$_58 (resized).JPG

#1 3 years ago

Just rebuilding flippers on 1970 Gottlieb Baseball....
Don't want to make a rookie mistake on the roll pins. I'm inclined to just tap out with a small punch.
Is there a better way?

#2 3 years ago

use a roll pin punch, it has a ball at the end so it stays put.
amazon.com link »

#3 3 years ago

Thanks. I'm going to get me one for Xmas.

#4 3 years ago

Or if you are poor like me, drive a small cheapo phillips head screw driver into the pin. Thankfully PBR seems to be selling these assembled now..wasn't like that a few years ago.

#5 3 years ago

One other suggestion - try not to drive the roll pin all the way out. Just drive it far enough so you can swap out the link. It can be really tedious to get these roll pins started once they have been driven all the way out of an assembly.

- TimMe

#6 3 years ago
Quoted from TimMe:

One other suggestion - try not to drive the roll pin all the way out. Just drive it far enough so you can swap out the link. It can be really tedious to get these roll pins started once they have been driven all the way out of an assembly.
- TimMe

tim that is a tricky thing, i always manage to tap it just one more time and the dang blasted thing falls to the floor.....

#7 3 years ago
Quoted from TimMe:

One other suggestion - try not to drive the roll pin all the way out. Just drive it far enough so you can swap out the link. It can be really tedious to get these roll pins started once they have been driven all the way out of an assembly.
- TimMe

Beat me to it!

#8 3 years ago

I think this is one of the cases where harbor freight tools are fine. Basic cheapo roll pin set. The issue for me has always been collecting the pin. Sure, ideally you don't drive it all the way out. When it does go all the way through it typically goes for a ride. I wouldn't call my workshop the neatest, finding a tiny roll pin is no fun. I recently bought a bench block for a trigger upgrade on one of my handguns and figured I'd give it a shot with the pinball parts. It's designed to capture roll pins from a pistol and did exactly that for the plunger link. Might be a little pricey if you don't have multiple uses for it, but I don't think I'll be punching out a roll pin without it again.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/265720/wheeler-engineering-bench-block

$_58 (resized).JPG

#9 3 years ago

I did some grinding on a cheapo bicycle chain breaker. It makes pushing the pin "just far enough" really easy.

IMG_0514 (resized).JPG

IMG_0513 (resized).JPG

Similar tools are available on amazon or ebay for under $5 including postage.

#10 3 years ago

I purchased a set of roll pin punches some time ago but for the life of me just cannot find them anywhere!

Anyhow I had purchased a rivet kit separately & found that the included punch works perfectly in centering the roll pin. I also found using a small ball pein hammer was useful in tapping the pin so as not to totally remove it.

Rpunch (resized).jpg

This was the kit purchased on ebay:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/4x-Sewing-Craft-Die-Punch-Tools-10-Sets-Rivets-Poppers-Snaps-Fasteners-Button-/231822799084?hash=item35f9b730ec:g:7SoAAOSw3ydV0wZW

#11 3 years ago
Quoted from Shredso:

I think this is one of the cases where harbor freight tools are fine. Basic cheapo roll pin set. The issue for me has always been collecting the pin. Sure, ideally you don't drive it all the way out. When it does go all the way through it typically goes for a ride. I wouldn't call my workshop the neatest, finding a tiny roll pin is no fun. I recently bought a bench block for a trigger upgrade on one of my handguns and figured I'd give it a shot with the pinball parts. It's designed to capture roll pins from a pistol and did exactly that for the plunger link. Might be a little pricey if you don't have multiple uses for it, but I don't think I'll be punching out a roll pin without it again.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/265720/wheeler-engineering-bench-block

I have the exact same one. It's made for 1911's

#12 3 years ago
Quoted from boilerman:

tim that is a tricky thing, i always manage to tap it just one more time and the dang blasted thing falls to the floor.....

Quoted from bonzo71:

Or if you are poor like me, drive a small cheapo phillips head screw driver into the pin. Thankfully PBR seems to be selling these assembled now..wasn't like that a few years ago.

Sometimes a little too much information can be dangerous.... For me anyway.
Got impatient last night and tried punching with a makeshift punch. And rather than tapping it "just one more time" I thought I would just wiggle it a tad with some pliers to flush it out. Snap! Busted pin in two!
Even I had to laugh! Good thing is rebuild kit parts come partial assembled so I have a spare pin to use. Heading out to get a proper punch today.

Thanks for all the input.

2 years later
#13 5 months ago
Quoted from balzofsteel:

I did some grinding on a cheapo bicycle chain breaker. It makes pushing the pin "just far enough" really easy.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Similar tools are available on amazon or ebay for under $5 including postage.

I remember helping my friend with a sys1 and going oh crap to the roll pin. Now I have 2 and this thread was a life saver. I order a cheap chain break to help! See how this does

#14 5 months ago

I have accumulated the necessary punches after doing a couple of rebuilds, but I have to admit to MacGyver-ing it once by drilling a hole in a piece of 2x4 to catch the pin and using a finish nail to drive it (partially) out. Worked fine at the time

Dave

#15 5 months ago

Whenever I had to remove a roll pin from a flipper solenoid plunger in the field, I just used my trusty Channel locks along with another, slightly smaller roll pin to press out the roll pin to get the linkage replaced. Squeezed the pin back in place easily.

#16 5 months ago
Quoted from Shredso:

I think this is one of the cases where harbor freight tools are fine. Basic cheapo roll pin set. The issue for me has always been collecting the pin. Sure, ideally you don't drive it all the way out. When it does go all the way through it typically goes for a ride. I wouldn't call my workshop the neatest, finding a tiny roll pin is no fun. I recently bought a bench block for a trigger upgrade on one of my handguns and figured I'd give it a shot with the pinball parts. It's designed to capture roll pins from a pistol and did exactly that for the plunger link. Might be a little pricey if you don't have multiple uses for it, but I don't think I'll be punching out a roll pin without it again.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/265720/wheeler-engineering-bench-block

[quoted image]

The gunsmithing gun bench block is a great idea for getting roll pins out. I went ahead and ordered one for myself. Also ordered a roll pin starter punch set. Those are useful to start a roll pin in the hole if you've punched it completely out. It holds the pin for you!

4 weeks later
#17 4 months ago

Just came across this tip to start a roll pin:

#18 4 months ago

Received my gun bench block and roll pin starter punch set. I bought both of them from different sellers on ebay dirt cheap.

The bench block has a groove in it to hold the plunger/link assembly. I use a roll pin punch in it to drive out the roll pin just enough to slide out the worn or broken link. The bench block works great and it stays put (doesn't scoot around) when using it. It's magnetized so if you accidently drive the pin all the way out, it sticks to the bottom of the block (doesn't get lost on the floor).

The roll pin starter punches have a hole in the end of them. You simply push the roll pin into it and the punch holds it for you. Makes it easy to put the roll pin back into the plunger because it's securely held for you. The set I bought has 4 sizes with 1/8 being the largest. That's generally the largest size roll pin you'd encounter on a pinball. This set has the smaller sizes like you'd find in Rudy's head or Red/Ted's heads too.

I like both the gun bench block and the roll pin starter punch set. I give them both two thumbs up and glad I bought them.

Gun bench block (resized).JPGRoll pin starter punch (resized).JPG
#19 4 months ago

I got the cheap bike chain tool off amazon and it didn't fit the flipper. I grinded out the space to try and fit the linkage and it was getting too thin.

I threw the link on my work bench vise and used a punch to slowly hammer it out most the way. The first flipper went perfect as planned, the 2nd I must of tapped a little too hard and popped the roll pin out, but was able to tap it back in. Well even this method worked better than I thought!

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