Sagamore Hills, OH
I thiink there's a wiring issue here.
Is the coil lug with the thin single wire connected to one side of the EOS switch?
(Topic ID: 137380)
Linked Games
Safari
Bally, 1968
Topic Gallery
Im pretty sure there should only be two wires connected to the lug with the thin wire.
I'm thinking that the wire with the trace should be connected to the lug with the thin wire (leave the orange wire that's connected to the EOS) next, move the other two orange wires over to the lug where the wire with the trace was.
Quoted from Solder_Splash:Im pretty sure there should only be two wires connected to the lug with the thin wire.
I'm thinking that the wire with the trace should be connected to the lug with the thin wire (leave the orange wire that's connected to the EOS) next, move the other two orange wires over to the lug where the wire with the trace was.
No, it's wired correctly. If you look at the video that shows the old style Bally flipper coil, the solid orange wires are coming onto and off the hold side and to the EOS switch. The wire with the trace is going to the power winding.
I think there might be an issue with that solder job. It's acting like there is a bad connection or something. The resistance for those coils shows the coil is good.
Try cleaning that solder job up and get a better connection. If that doesn't cure it, I'm out of ideas. But I'm sure it's wired correctly. I'm guessing the issue is with the connection of the wires to the hold side of the coil.
The white nylon cylinder is bouncing around on the screw. It hits the EOS switch then moves away and then hits it again. Make it solid so it opens switch only once.
Quoted from EMsInKC:Try cleaning that solder job up and get a better connection. If that doesn't cure it, I'm out of ideas.
I did what I could but fucked things up even more. I tried cutting the ends off the wires and restripping them only to find out they were now barely able to reach the solder posts. So I had to remove some clamps that held the wires together to get enough room for them to reach. I have zero soldering experience so trying to solder 3 wires to a tiny ass post was an absolute cluster *#%^.
I just don't grasp how you're supposed to do something like that? How the hell are you supposed to hold the wires, the iron and the solder?
I finally got everything soldered back together and even went to the trouble of flipping the coil just in case. Guess what...same damn thing. It bounces and buzzes.
I don't think I have any option other than to give up? I guess I can play it how it is and try to deal with the flipper firing multiple times each time it's pressed. I'm sure untimately it will lead to me not playing the game because it bugs me.
It pains me to fuck up such a beautiful game. It really can't be this hard to rebuild a damn flipper, can it? I've replaced transmissions, done engine swaps and other than a timing belt in a 4G63T, have never been this frustrated with anything mechanical.
Quoted from GRUMPY:The white nylon cylinder is bouncing around on the screw. It hits the EOS switch then moves away and then hits it again. Make it solid so it opens switch only once.
Unfortunately, there isn't a way to adjust that post. It's a rivet on the other side so if you try to tighten it, all it does is spin.
Anyone know a really good EM tech in the Harrisburg Pa area?
This entire experience has completely soured me to ever thinking of doing anything to my games other than waxing them. It's so disheartening.
I probably have over 6 hours into this flipper and have nothing to show for it other than a fucked up game. And of course, it had to be my favorite game...
/rant
Does this make sense to anyone? When it's buzzing, if I put the smallest amount of pressure on the plunger, it stops.
Sana'a
Quoted from Spyderturbo007:I just don't grasp how you're supposed to do something like that? How the hell are you supposed to hold the wires, the iron and the solder?
Twist the 3 wires together and solder them as one.
Using an alligator clip, hold the wires to the lug - don't worry, solder won't stick to steel clip.
Heat lug first, wick solder into gap.
Sounds more complicated than it is.
Quoted from Spyderturbo007:I don't think I have any option other than to give up?
Color the end of the coil stop black with a Sharpie.
Fire flipper 20 times.
Examine coil stop
Check if plunger is hitting squarely in center of coil stop, or is only a small edge touching?
Spyder,
Time to take a break and walk away. No big deal with the wires. You can always splice in a piece if they're too short.
The next time you have it apart, take a very small piece off tissue, roll it up and push it down the coil tube to act as a cushion between the plunger and the coil stop. See if that quiets that coil down. Not a permanent solution but we can see if the buzz is being caused by the plunger and coil stop. Also check and see if how hot that coil is getting when after you hold it in the up position for 5 seconds or so. I very rarely run into bad coils but who knows, that thing might be a lemon.
This is how you learn
We have all been in the same position at one time or another. You'll get it solved. Don't give up!
Quoted from Spyderturbo007:Does this make sense to anyone? When it's buzzing, if I put the smallest amount of pressure on the plunger, it stops.
This now makes me think even more that the plunger and coil stop are not meeting squarely.
Think of a electronic lock when someone **buzzes** you in, if you see what I mean.
Quoted from vid1900:Color the end of the coil stop black with a Sharpie.
Fire flipper 20 times.
Examine coil stop
Check if plunger is hitting squarely in center of coil stop, or is only a small edge touching?
Unfortunately, both the coil stop and the plunger are black. I don't have any other color sharpies laying around but I can buy one if that's what I need to do.
Quoted from Solder_Splash:Spyder,
Time to take a break and walk away.
Yeah, sorry about the outburst. 
I just hate breaking something and then not being able to fix it. I spent the last 20 minutes or so cleaning and waxing the game and feel much better. The artwork is phenomenal. They just don't make them like this these days.
Quoted from Solder_Splash:This is how you learn
We have all been in the same position at one time or another. You'll get it solved. Don't give up!
I guess I just needed to vent around people that would understand my frustration. Thanks for listening.
Quoted from vid1900:This now makes me think even more that the plunger and coil stop are not meeting squarely.
Should I see if I can buy an entire assembly from Steve, bracket and all? I don't mind spending the money if that's what's needed. I just want my beloved Safari back. 
Quoted from Spyderturbo007:Unfortunately, both the coil stop and the plunger are black.
You could clean the black off with fine sandpaper....
.....but instead, just slightly loosen the coil stop, skew it 1mm CCW or 1mm CW and find the dead spot.
Ballsy lads might even do it live with the flipper engaged, lol.
Quoted from Spyderturbo007:Should I see if I can buy an entire assembly from Steve, bracket and all? I don't mind spending the money if that's what's needed. I just want my beloved Safari back.
No. We call this "shotgunning" and it's a waste of money. Your problem can more than likely be addressed by some good old fashion tweaking.
Just for the sake of being thorough I would also file the flipper button switches to make sure they are also making a good connection
Reply
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!
Donate to PinsideGreat to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
