Same numbered coils?

Probably binding. You need a tiny bit of space between flipper bat and the bushing.

Or you could have screwed something else up....EOS...wrong coil...parts installed wrong.

Yeah, I would guess the coils need replacing as well.

What all did you include in the rebuild?

Did you do both flippers, or leave one intact for reference?

What game?

Is the EOS switch closed?

My first thought, but I figured he would've changed everything and moved it back and forth after installing to make sure everything was freely and smoothly moving. I always add a few drops of 3 in 1 for smoother operation myself. You may want to try that OP. GL.

You want an EXACT 1/8th" gap when the EOS is fully open.

I think the guys above nailed it with the EOS. That's normally closed, then opens when flipper reaches full stroke....or as close to full as you can get it.

EOS depends on which system game he is working on. Everyone is assuming he is working on WPC but I don't think he has said.

This is the EM forum. EOS should be normally closed (on a Gottlieb at least).

Yep, We just assumed it was one of the Gottlieb EM's cantbfrank has listed in his fantastic collection

For the life of me, I can't figure out why we KNOW it is the EOS or binding? It could certainly be either/or, or even something else. Obviously, you did something wrong. What CHANGED is the rebuild, so it must not have been rebuilt correctly. EOS opening too early is one idea. Binding between the crank and the bushing is another. Binding between the crank and the bakelite link (the crank is mashed) is another. Offset/misalignment of the crank/bushing/link is another. You will need to investigate and correct. It is often not straightforward. After 25-30 of these, I hooked up a coil wrong last winter. Spent about 3 days hunting it down.

See the following link for flipper and EOS information.

http://www.gamefaqs.com/pinball/916391-pinball/faqs/1323

Hmm it doesn't show which Forum I'm surfing for the way I view. I'll have to look for that.

Why EXACT 1/8th. I know VID's repair guide says so but why. Isn't it either connected or not? Once it breaks what difference if it breaks open 1/16th 1/8th or 1/6th? I've always wondered this. If its larger or smaller is there some kind of static that creates problems or weakness

Are there any spacers available that can be used for helping to set the gap between he flipper and bushing on the playfield as well as to check the gap on the EOS?

Business card works great for setting the distance between the bushing and the flipper.

My bad, did not realize this was in the EM repair thread. Nine times out of ten that's usually why you have a weak flipper on a WPC era game.

I am unsure of the mechanics of it, but it does make a difference. I usually have to tweak mine a few times to get that exact 1/8th so that the flippers work their best. You also don't want it opening too early, just right at the end of the stroke for a nice exact 1/8th.

As for the EOS switch gap, I just use a ruler. for the space between the flipper and bushing, I took an old credit card and cut a notch out the size of the shaft, works great.

Glad you figured it out and have it working properly now.

this may sound pedantic, but it isn't... all other things being equal, the gap would be "larger" because the switch would be opening earlier in the throw of the flipper... yes, technically*, "less powerful flipper", since you would breaking the high power circuit earlier, but not because of the size of the gap itself...

like all other switches on an em, gapping by eye seems to work well enough...

* technically... in reality, i don't wanna do the math to see what the difference would really be... i would wager, however, that unless you REALLY get out of tolerance in terms "opens too early", any "real effect" would be extremely small and not noticeable in game play...

I thought the specific gap was so the contacts had enough travel to rub together and 'self clean'

The main issue with an EM EOS is opening too soon which will cause a weak flipper, or barely opening at all which will cause chatter.

The gap isn't that important. It's when the EOS opens that matters.

another "this sounds pedantic..." moment...

the actual "gap size" doesn't matter there... it could be really small or really big... what matters is that when the switch closes, the moving blade deflects the non-moving blade enough to "wipe" the contacts...

for most switches in an em (pf and relay switches), the recommended "open or close about halfway through the travel of the switch" accomplishes this, because the gap is relatively small...

however, if you had more room to play with on the switch, you could make the gap be as big as you wanted, as long as you deflect the non-moving blade a bit... the flipper eos switch would be an example of this, as it would be basically impossible to gap correctly and still open/close halfway through the travel... you could never get the non-moving blade to deflect enough (even if you could, it would likely "overtravel" and break the contact)...

check the soldering. make sure you connected the right wires to the flipper coil. check end of stroke switch. nc switch. file switch to clean