(Topic ID: 116742)

Flipper opto creates phantom opto issue Dirty Harry

By fusion301

8 years ago

Topic Stats

  • 9 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 years ago by fusion301
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider


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#1 8 years ago

I'm trying to figure out how the right flipper opto board or flipper In general is at all related to the right loop optos on DH. Not every time but often during game play the right flipper will make the magnet opto(right loop) register. I've cleaned the right loop optos and they work as they should, but about every third flip will cause it to also register.

I can hold the flippers in and lightly press the button and it will still register, so I'm fairly certain it has something to do with the optical circuit not so much the flipper coils, vibration, etc. I don't see in the schematics how these two things relate, anyone point me in the right direction on this? Thinking something on CPU since the fliptronics board and 16 opto board are independent of each other.

#2 8 years ago

Just to add, my initial thought is some sort of voltage drop that would make it register, but how is that created by only the right flipper and how come it's only one specific opto? Is the right flipper/opto sharing the voltage for the optos in that row or something??

#4 8 years ago

in switch edge test, close the right outer orbit opto switch with a ball, see if it works. then, hit the right flipper button halfway, then fully (without testing right outer orbit). see what registers. are you getting the outer orbit registering in in switch test with the right flipper button at same time? the worst part about that right outer orbit opto is that you have to disassemble most everthing to access it. I don't see the flippers in the switch matrix grid row/columns with switch 42 (right outer orbit). I just replaced all my opto transmitters on my machine, as they were all original and mostly failing from years of gameplay.

i'm having fun with BSD right now, as I purchased one with more switch and opto issues than you can shake a stick at. when all fails, look for broken/burned receivers/transmitters, broken diodes, wires, pressure points. I would assume the issue is at/near your right flipper, or the switch itself. interested to know, gl

#5 8 years ago

So here is what I have learned so far: Ballsofsteel I tried your suggestion holding in the flipper buttons etc and rolling a ball up - everything works as it should, once I close the coin door and the High voltage is on - the flippers pulsing makes the opto register, since we know these switches register when they lose sight of the other opto, I can only assume there is some sort of voltage drop when the bottom and top flipper engage. Im leaning towards a voltage issue rather then and opto issue because they work normally at all times and in all tests.

Im also noticing the GI lights slightly pulse when the right top and bottom flippers flip so something is just slightly off, Im just not sure why it only affects that one opto - going to start digging in the back box for more clues, I have checked everything under the playfield and all seems normal.

#6 8 years ago

Maybe check the wiring at the upper right flipper and opto pair. Could be a wire is pinched or stripped and is touching the flipper lugs or something similar. Follow the wiring from the optos to make sure there isn't any damage. Could it also be one of the optos is loose and vibration is causing intermittent connections? Also check the 16-opto switch board under the playfield. The .156" header can get cracked solder joints and the IDC connector can be troublesome.

I once had an issue with a game where a screw holding down a ball rail was 1/16" too long. It went through the playfield and pierced a GI wire underneath. The GI voltage went through the screw, to the ball rail, to a spinner bracket, down the spinner to the switch arm and to the switch matrix causing (of all things) displays to not work. Could be something as unrelated as that. Just a thought.

#7 8 years ago

I'm starting to see this a lot on the 12 volt supply. Look on the driver board, top left, where the small heat sink is connected to a small voltage regulator 7812. Right next to it is a 100 mfd cap. Replace that cap.

#8 8 years ago
Quoted from cfh:

I'm starting to see this a lot on the 12 volt supply. Look on the driver board, top left, where the small heat sink is connected to a small voltage regulator 7812. Right next to it is a 100 mfd cap. Replace that cap.

Thanks to similar stuff Clay repairs on Pinball Ninja, I replaced that cap, and re-pinned J116 J117 J118 and that solved all of my opto problems on my Popeye.

The 12v was getting dragged down under load, and got progressive worse until it wouldn't play a game without all of the optos freaking out.

now it's solid


#9 8 years ago

Thanks everyone, good information here.

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