in switch edge test, close the right outer orbit opto switch with a ball, see if it works. then, hit the right flipper button halfway, then fully (without testing right outer orbit). see what registers. are you getting the outer orbit registering in in switch test with the right flipper button at same time? the worst part about that right outer orbit opto is that you have to disassemble most everthing to access it. I don't see the flippers in the switch matrix grid row/columns with switch 42 (right outer orbit). I just replaced all my opto transmitters on my machine, as they were all original and mostly failing from years of gameplay.

i'm having fun with BSD right now, as I purchased one with more switch and opto issues than you can shake a stick at. when all fails, look for broken/burned receivers/transmitters, broken diodes, wires, pressure points. I would assume the issue is at/near your right flipper, or the switch itself. interested to know, gl

Maybe check the wiring at the upper right flipper and opto pair. Could be a wire is pinched or stripped and is touching the flipper lugs or something similar. Follow the wiring from the optos to make sure there isn't any damage. Could it also be one of the optos is loose and vibration is causing intermittent connections? Also check the 16-opto switch board under the playfield. The .156" header can get cracked solder joints and the IDC connector can be troublesome.

I once had an issue with a game where a screw holding down a ball rail was 1/16" too long. It went through the playfield and pierced a GI wire underneath. The GI voltage went through the screw, to the ball rail, to a spinner bracket, down the spinner to the switch arm and to the switch matrix causing (of all things) displays to not work. Could be something as unrelated as that. Just a thought.

I'm starting to see this a lot on the 12 volt supply. Look on the driver board, top left, where the small heat sink is connected to a small voltage regulator 7812. Right next to it is a 100 mfd cap. Replace that cap.

Thanks to similar stuff Clay repairs on Pinball Ninja, I replaced that cap, and re-pinned J116 J117 J118 and that solved all of my opto problems on my Popeye.

The 12v was getting dragged down under load, and got progressive worse until it wouldn't play a game without all of the optos freaking out.

now it's solid

RM