Simple fix, loosen the bolt that's holding the flipper bat under the playfield and realign it, then tighten the bolt back up. I always just line the flipper up with the inlane. You probably need to replace the coil sleeve & stop to bring back the stregnrh of the flipper. Use an Allen wrench to remove the 2 black screws holding the coil stop in place, remove the sleeve from inside the coil, you probably need to buy some sleeves & coil stops (check pinball life it's a good idea
To order extras as you will need to do this in the future when they start to get dirty again). It's the cheapest thing to keep your pin playing its best.

I'd also remove that mylar between the flippers. Makes the game play like crap!!!

I wanted to warn you about the condition of the so called restored machine but did not want to get called out as a negative person !

The spring in on the wrong side of the bracket and will pull harder on the flipper possibly making it weaker .

The flipper adjustment is a easy fix .

Good luck and next time give us a shout out before you pull the trigger on a new machine .

Jim

I would hold off on things like mylar. Fix the flipper first as they described. Learning how to pull up mylar on afm is a very expensive way to learn something. It does play better without, but it isn't something you will notice until you are a better player than most.

I don't want to get called out as a more-negative person but i'll bet that spring was put on the wrong side of the bracket in order to get it to pull harder, to compensate for the flipper sticking up. Operators do crap like that all the time. Anything to avoid having to actually fix something the right way. I would assume that both flippers need a rebuild - get the rebuild kit from Marco or your preferred pinball parts vendor, as well as a pair of flipper bushings (03-7568), as those are not included in rebuild kits for reasons unclear to me. Do it on both flippers - whether they 'need' it or not.

Also, man, they call THAT restored? It looks like they didn't even hit the PF with some wax before they sent it out :-/

Time to rebuild your flippers. The pawl in there is worn to crap. Note the elongated hole the bolt goes through. And missing the washer.

You need new plunger assembly, new coil sleeve, new coil stop, and Williams return springs and get them in the hole closest to where it hooks onto the pawl.

Leave a tiny bit of up and down play on the flipper when you reassemble things so the pawl doesn't bind under the playfield on the nylon bushing the flipper shafte goes through.

You only have two flippers, 15 minutes and new parts and your game will play like new.

Before you close it up to play a game, take a Q tip and wet the end with windex and clean between the optos on the flipper button opto boards. Your game will have that brand new flipper snap again.

You're quick Lloyd... Still takes me a good hour per side, with cleaning the bracket, replacing the bushing and all the other usualy stuff.

Restored, it is not. The fact that it is mylared, that you are lucky for.

Sounds like the flipper isn't tight enough. You really have to wrench those down tightly.

+1. My SS did this on one flipper when I got it put back together. I had to tighten the hell out of that one flipper before it finally kept still.

Where did you get it from?

Yeah, you need to apply an unreasonable amount of force when tightening down those flippers cranks - and sometimes they can get "tired" and stop gripping the bat even when you do tighten them real good. Wouldn't surprise me if that's what's happened here, since the flipper being weak, and having the spring attached wrong, etc, implies that the guy had some problems with that flipper before you got it, so he might have taken it apart a few times.

When putting in new parts, consider the nylon bushing the flipper shaft goes through the playfield in.

The left one really gets a beating in AFM and cracks and breaks faster than any other game.

LTG

The left base on mine was cracked and welded back on when I got it

Congrats! Very nice game to have.

Check the switches put the game in switch test and see if they register
they might need to be adjusted a little bit.

This probably can be changed in the game settings,Is the game set to easy?

Are you trying to get some coin back from the seller?

Big +1 on that!

Re-aligning the flippers is pretty simple just do what smassa said and you should be good to go on that one. The one you loosen is the black one on the upper left side of the flipper in your bottom picture. Then you adjust it and tighten it back up.

If you are going from not knowing how to adjust a flipper, to doing a full playfield swap, that is a massive gap. It's no easy task...it's a great idea in theory. But it's not for the faint of heart...

If it's cheap, buy it and figure it out later, as you will get your money back if you want to sell. Getting a AFM PF is getting harder by the second.

If you pass, I'll take it

Maybe so, at least until you get a few repairs and adjustments under your belt

A PF swap is a lot of work, but with some planning and a lot of pictures, AFM isn't too bad. Having another playfield ready makes it a little easier because then you aren't shipping the old one off and waiting months for it to come back. Things will be a little fresher in your mind.

Also, by this time, Williams/Bally had things pretty nailed down and the WPC-95 machines are fairly easy to disassemble and reassemble. For the most part, all switches, targets, flashers, and assemblies unplug and can be removed without unsoldering wires or removing switches or flashers. You do have to unsolder coils, and pop bumpers are a pain to remove and reassemble.

One thing to keep track of is which under-playfield screws go where. They are different lengths based on what they are holding. You don't want to attach a stand up target with too long of a screw and push it up through your nice new playfield.

Of course you do have to remove all the playfield connectors from the power driver board and the switch connectors from the CPU. But if you take pictures and label stuff, it goes back together pretty easily. There are also a lot of photos of AFM teardowns out on the web, and that is helpful.

I didn't mean for this to turn into a mini PF swap tutorial. I guess I got carried away.