(Topic ID: 265868)

Flipper get stuck in the upright position on modern Stern

By coop

1 year ago


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  • 25 posts
  • 9 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by Pin_Guy
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#1 1 year ago

The flippers were just rebuilt a few days ago so the parts are new. However, after the rebuild, this same left flipper when hit by a ball while it was in the up position would not be able to take the weight of the ball's inertia so it would bend down slightly and then spring back. Now I seem to have a mechanical issue. As you can see in the video it has a way of "locking" in the upright position.

Any thoughts???

Thanks!

-1
#2 1 year ago

Did you get the correct rebuild kits? Where did you buy them? It’s possible the plunger or coil stop is incorrect. Show us what the mech looks like under the playfield.

#3 1 year ago

Take out the coil stop and see if it is broken.

#4 1 year ago
Quoted from pintechev:

Take out the coil stop and see if it is broken.

Broken coil stop or a swollen coil. I had the coil
stop on my DPLE break not to long ago. The new stops on sterns are junk.

#5 1 year ago
Quoted from coop:

The flippers were just rebuilt a few days ago so the parts are new.

I will assume you used the right kit.

Quoted from pintechev:

Take out the coil stop and see if it is broken.

The coil stop is part of the rebuild kit; I would find it unlikely that anyone rebuilding a flipper would put in a broken one; however, I have been wrong before.

Quoted from titanpenguin:

Broken coil stop or a swollen coil. I had the coil
stop on my DPLE break not to long ago. The new stops on sterns are junk.

I do agree that they suck pretty bad; but since the flippers were just rebuilt AND a new stop is part of the kit, I'm assuming its good. Stern flippers are fused to prevent a locked on could that would cause the coil to "swell" plus any failure that could cause this problem would still exist AND the new sleeve (also in the kit) would be very hard to remove and equally as hard to install. There is no mention of this in the post.

Best guess ... you simply don't have the proper vertical spacing set on the flipper and its binding against the bushing...or worse the playfield. The flipper should have a vertical movement of roughly 1-2mm when moved up and down; if you dont have this spacing simply loosen the hex screw and pull the flipper up a little bit to achieve this spacing, then tighten it back down.

#6 1 year ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

The coil stop is part of the rebuild kit.

They also are known to break and cause that symptom. It's worth a look, at least.

#7 1 year ago
Quoted from pintechev:

They also are known to break and cause that symptom. It's worth a look, at least.

True, I have never seen one fail that fast even on location but you never know. Is there a pile of brass dust under the flipper?

#8 1 year ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

True, I have never seen one fail that fast even on location but you never know. Is there a pile of brass dust under the flipper?

My friend had one fail the first week he had the game. Same symptom. Not saying that's what is happening here, but I've seen things.

#9 1 year ago

Check your flipper spring might need to be a little tighter.

#10 1 year ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Did you get the correct rebuild kits? Where did you buy them? It’s possible the plunger or coil stop is incorrect. Show us what the mech looks like under the playfield.

No need to give him a thumbs down.

You may have ordered the correct kit. But could have been sent the wrong parts.

Nothing wrong with eliminating all possibilities so you can enjoy your game again.

LTG : )

#11 1 year ago

No big deal. It was fresh on my mind from someone recently that trusted a kit they bought off eBay that ended up having a bad part in it.

#12 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

No need to give him a thumbs down.
You may have ordered the correct kit. But could have been sent the wrong parts.
Nothing wrong with eliminating all possibilities so you can enjoy your game again.
LTG : )

Exactly. Mistakes happen.

#13 1 year ago
Quoted from coop:

However, after the rebuild, this same left flipper when hit by a ball while it was in the up position would not be able to take the weight of the ball's inertia so it would bend down slightly and then spring back.

When the flipper “crashes” like described, the EOS switch isn’t functioning right.
I would start there.

#14 1 year ago
Quoted from DNO:

When the flipper “crashes” like described, the EOS switch isn’t functioning right.
I would start there.

Power is off in the vid. EOS is irrelevant.

#15 1 year ago

Flipper was crashing when the ball hit it, EOS is not proper. The pawl can stick on the switch, even with power off.
But sure, ignore an obvious place to start.

#16 1 year ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

Best guess ... you simply don't have the proper vertical spacing set on the flipper and its binding against the bushing...or worse the playfield. The flipper should have a vertical movement of roughly 1-2mm when moved up and down; if you dont have this spacing simply loosen the hex screw and pull the flipper up a little bit to achieve this spacing, then tighten it back down.

This is also good advice for sticking.
Also of note, the EOS not working could be a broken wire off of the other flipper, they chain the black wire from one to the other.

#17 1 year ago
Quoted from DNO:

Flipper was crashing when the ball hit it, EOS is not proper. The pawl can stick on the switch, even with power off.
But sure, ignore an obvious place to start.

I think the OP misspoke. The video shows the flipper binding at full stroke.

#18 1 year ago
Quoted from DNO:

Flipper was crashing when the ball hit it, EOS is not proper. The pawl can stick on the switch, even with power off.
But sure, ignore an obvious place to start.

I second checking the EOS. The pawl could get stuck on it. Remove EOS and see if it still binds.

#19 1 year ago

Definitely a mechanical issue.

And not much there. Flipper bat have a tiny bit of up and down play ( not back and forth ) to prevent the pawl binding under the playfield.

Coil stop broken, the part that rests in the coil sleeve.

Was it sticking like this before the rebuild/new parts ? If so remove the plunger assembly and make sure the pawl/plastic link/plunger wiggle freely.

Pawl going too far and dragging on the end of the EOS switch ?

Now the bat up and ball knocking it down and it flips back up is a different issue than the sticking in the video. For that I'd check the EOS and the flipper button leaf blade switches and clean them. And even if clean. The contact point that looks like a rivet in the end of the leaf blade, may not be making good contact. You could swap them left for right and see if the problem moves.

LTG : )

#20 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

Definitely a mechanical issue.
And not much there. Flipper bat have a tiny bit of up and down play ( not back and forth ) to prevent the pawl binding under the playfield.
Coil stop broken, the part that rests in the coil sleeve.
Was it sticking like this before the rebuild/new parts ? If so remove the plunger assembly and make sure the pawl/plastic link/plunger wiggle freely.
Pawl going too far and dragging on the end of the EOS switch ?
Now the bat up and ball knocking it down and it flips back up is a different issue than the sticking in the video. For that I'd check the EOS and the flipper button leaf blade switches and clean them. And even if clean. The contact point that looks like a rivet in the end of the leaf blade, may not be making good contact. You could swap them left for right and see if the problem moves.
LTG : )

Exactly. No power to game in video. Any and all switches are irrelevant.

#21 1 year ago
Quoted from titanpenguin:

Exactly. No power to game in video. Any and all switches are irrelevant.

Someone did make a good point. The EOS switch could be causing the binding of the actuator is getting caught on it.

#22 1 year ago
Quoted from titanpenguin:

Any and all switches are irrelevant.

Well yes and no. Video and problem description are two separate problems.

And with the game off, pawl could still be catching on the EOS blades.

LTG : )

#23 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

Well yes and no. Video and problem description are two separate problems.
And with the game off, pawl could still be catching on the EOS blades.
LTG : )

True. I’m simply referring to the switch in the electrical sense. Not the physical. A simple moving of the flipper while watching underneath the playfield should reviel the offending part.

#24 1 year ago

Can't wait for the OP to reply back

#25 1 year ago
Quoted from pintechev:

Can't wait for the OP to reply back

Quoted from DNO:

Flipper was crashing when the ball hit it, EOS is not proper.

While we are waiting for the OP to reply, I do recall working on a machine where the flippers had just been rebuilt but the EOS switch wasn't working.

In this specific instance the owner who performed the rebuild had no idea there were right and left flipper cranks in the rebuild kit and had installed them incorrectly. There is no mechanical reason to prevent this and the flippers will work fine except for the fact that the actuator on the crank is bent in the wrong direction and cannot activate the EOS switch which causes flippers to drop when hit by fast moving balls.

Quoted from coop:

after the rebuild, this same left flipper when hit by a ball while it was in the up position would not be able to take the weight of the ball's inertia so it would bend down slightly and then spring back.

This isn't exactly the same thing I described above and simply seems like the EOS switch gap is too wide when the flipper is fully extended. This causes too much movement in the flipper before the EOS switch closes and full power is re-applied to the flipper.

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