I have the full kit in WWF and it sounds great. Also had them in my JP before selling, it also was a big improvement, reduced alot of hum, clearer sound better base. Just my opinion, I am no audiofile or sound expert..

Personally, I would leave the stock head speakers alone, get a polk or any other powered subwoofer run the wires from the cab speaker to the line level input on the sub, and be blown away.. and it will probably be about 100 bucks cheaper.

One thing with these aftermarket speakers, your not sending them more power when you install them, the more power a speaker gets, the better it sounds (and not for blasting), more power makes the speaker move faster, and sound better.. the power in a pinball speaker system is not strong enough to drive the aftermarket speakers, only other option, install a car amp in the game to drive the speakers.. But I personally suggest just the powered sub, cheaper, easier, and MUCH more impact, I have had 3 pinball guys stop over to check out my games, all 3 started buying woofers right after they left.

I have FF subs on TFTC and they're amazing. Definitely worth it. Solid bass and the voice is very clear. Good purchase.

When you run the wires from cabinet speaker to the powered subwoofer, do you just disconnect them from the base speaker altogether and add additional wire/splice to get them to an external subwoofer ( under the game I assume?)

I just use speaker wire and solder alligator clips to one end and clip them to the speaker terminals in the under cab speaker. I leave the existing speaker connected when connecting the subwoofer.

I see, Thanks, I wonder if i could try the same with my installed FF system? It has the quickconnect crimp connectors on the tabs of the cabinet subwoofer that come from the FF backbox volume control. I could probably ask FF ( Michael about it). I have a spare subwoofer I could see how it sounds on my WWF.

I would disconnect the bottom cab speaker (personal opinion_, once the sub is in place, it is not needed any longer, and in a few cases makes the set up sound worse depending on the sub in the cabinet.

Yes, try your powered sub under the WWF, and be prepared to be blown away!

If you want an easy test, just use electrical tape to try it and see how you like it, then you can do a Permanente solution.

In some cases, people use 1 sub for 2 games, since there is a left and right speaker input, personally I put one under each game, as I want the sound to be specific to each game, plus you want it directly under the cabinet anyway..

great in JP

What Mud said!

Plus Pinball Pro are good too...

PP is pretty close to FF, but I'm not an audiophile. I have FF in 3 of my games and PP in the 4th. One of those 'must haves' for me.

Back on topic, I highly recommend FF for TFTC. I don't do the powered subwoofer thing, so it's a no-brainer for me.

Powered sub blows them all away.

No sure what you mean about sensitive connectors.. It is just the speaker wires that go to the speaker in the bottom of the cabinet.. Now not having room under the cabinet I understand, but from a cost stand point a powered sub will have a much more impact than either speaker system will for about 1/3 of the price.. Unless your going to add a car amp to the game to really drive the speakers

You could always just remove the wires right from the sub.. if you forget altogether, well that is a different story.. but you could just run longer wire and have extra slack.

I ran an Audio Video store for years, so I am more familiar with how speakers in general work, and what they need..

I have tried the speaker kits in the past, and was underwhelmed by them, due to the fact that changing the speakers do not change the wattage that goes to the speakers, now if you were to rig a car amp into the cabinet to give additional power to the speakers, then there would be a bigger difference no question, but since the 2 in the head do the high frequency sounds, and the woofer in the cabinet does the low frequency, the addition of a powered sub makes a HUGE difference to the game, I do not even bother with the speakers in the head.. I have a powered sub under every game I have at this point.. many times I pick them up off Craigslist for 40 or 50 bucks..

Honestly, after people come by and play the games, they are calling or emailing me telling me they just went and got a few subs for their games.. from a cost standpoint for about a 3rd of the price of one of the speaker kits, and the impact factor, the powered sub option is hands down the winner..

But of course, to each their own.

Depending on where your machines are located and what time your playing, others in the house may not.. : )

Just played the Flintstones, man that thing really rocks with a sub.

I checked with Michael Pupo of Flipper Fidelity. He did not see any issue with adding an externally powered sub when using his Speaker kit. He cautioned not to short any wires, etc. otherwise could blow up the amp chip. I ask about leaving his cabinet hooked up too, if that would be a problem but did not get a specific answer yet. I may give the old electrical tape, temporary hook up to see how my sub sounds with that first. Any specific type of speaker wire recommended?

Here's a picture of my subamp. I am not sure where the speaker wires would be hooked up coming from the cabinet? Any help?

IMG_0214.JPG

To the high level L or R inputs.

if you're wanting in cab, maybe look at PartsExpress Goldwood dual voicecoil 8" woofer. you might get a lot more from stock audio power with both 8ohm voice coils connected parallel. another decent option for a budget is an MCM 8" http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/55-2950 does about 94db on one watt. want deeper thud? http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/55-2421?green=D353EADF-849D-5992-BE6F-E33554E0AA2E . an 8 that'll reach down to 25hz? hey now

not kidding about "just stock power", if you drop a high efficiency driver it might surprise you a lot. another possible help is a freeware program called "box-notes". enter the dimensions of the cabinet and size-specs of the driver, it'll calculate the diameter and length of port tube's tuning for you is pretty darn nice. I'd just used the program recently to build clones of "the Clue" stereo speakers, the 2 6.5" woofers DO give the impression of a subwoofer running, from 6w input power?!

Chet

MustangPaul is right, the either the L or R High level inputs.

You could leave the bottom speaker in the cabinet connected if you like, Personally I found that at a higher volume the bottom speaker added more distortion due to the low power output of the pinball machines output..

Again, just my opinion, but I would just leave the 2 stock head speakers alone, can run the wires from the bottom woofer to the powered woofer, and you will be very happy with the results.

Oh yeah, specific speaker wire, usually the thicker the gage the better, but in this case, a 14 gage will do fine, as your running that or thinner from the cab to the speakers anyway, so thicker wire would not have any real difference in this case.

One reason to leave the cabinet woofer connected is that I have two games connected to the subwoofer. So I need a speaker available for the game that isn't using the sub.

Another reason would be to quickly connect the sub to any game but still have sound when it's not.

But, if it does sound distorted to you, then it's not worth it.

I just have a sub under every game. Check Craigslist for them, got them as low as 30 bucks, really does not have to be a high end one for this purpose.

I have two, a Yamaha and Harmon Kardon that were $20 yard sale and flea market finds. They sound terrific and absolutely no need to pay $100 or more.