Because the same switch in Relay V (Sequence Relay) is in #3 Rollover Relay's circuitry
to keep itself energized, it can't be that. I'd have to think it's a switch in #1 (W) Relay
not truly making when energized (or that set of switches isn't getting current). It's usually
the inside set of switches that holds itself energized..

This is commonly the Score Reel's EOS (End of Stroke) switch. When the Score Reel's coil plunger is all the
way in, it should open a set of contacts which breaks the circuit to it's Score Relay. In this case the 1 & 10
Score (Point) Relay. If that set of contacts does not open when the Score Reel's coil is energized, the Score Relay
will remain energized. Also, it's always a good idea to carefully check contacts solder tabs..

The position of the Alternative Relay determines that. The 2nd set of trough switches resets 1-3.

You say the 1 & 10 Score Relays remain energize, but you didn't mentioned that their Score Reels
stay stuck on. If the Score Relays stay locked on, their corresponding score reels should do the same.
If the score reels aren't energizing when their Score Relays do, then the score reels EOS switch will
remain closed keeping the Score Relays energized..

I believe the Alternative Relay gets energized/not energized depending on the
position the #1s Unit is on, so it's possible that multiple times in a row the same
two sets of numbers (1 & 3 or 2 & 4) could remain lit. If only one of the sets of
numbers are lit after 1-4 are made and the ball drains, I'd call it good for now..

Okay. This is how this part of the machine works. After the Ball Count Unit zeros out (totally resets), the D Relay energizes
transferring the circuit to the Ball Count's Step Up Coil. When the Ball Count steps up 4 times (so on ball 4) 2 of the Snowshoe
Wipers are on each of it's Wiper Board rivets closing that part of the circuit to the Control Bank's Restet Coil.
The only thing left to happen so the Bank's Coil energizes and resets is the Step Up Coil's EOS switch needs to make.
So the next time the Step Up Coil energizes, the EOS switch makes, the Bank resets, and as the Step Up coil returns
to its home (out) position, it lands on Ball 5. If the 2 Snowshoe wipers aren't making good contact on its Wiper Board rivets
when it's in the 4th step up, the Bank won't reset, and it'll keep stepping up until those Snowshoes are making good
connection on its rivets. So your Snowshoes aren't making good connection when it's in the 4th step up. It's mostly because
the rivets (in the 4th step up) are worn. I found if the Snowshoes outside is filed so the center becomes the high point (but yet
kept a bit rounded), that can help make it get the connection it needs, but if the rivets are noticeably worn, I take the
wiper board off so the rivets are upright, flow solder in the worn area, then form by filing. Then by putting a film of Super Lube
on the Wiper Board, those rivets should hold up for quite some time..
So yes. You were right. The rivet contacts aren't sending the signal, but I thought I'd explain it in long term in case it may be
useful another time..

Post 159 is what we've been waiting to hear. Good deal and time well spent..
Flipper Fair's one of the top notch classic..

Hold on a second! Not at $3.50 a gallon. I'd say a few other truthful things, but unbelievably it may
get deleted before you get a chance to read it.
"Crazy I tell you, Crazy"..
Anyways, recently after cleaning the outside prongs of jones plugs, I still wasn't getting connection.
After some testing, I found it wasn't a broken wire, so with a fairly thin file, I cleaned the inside of the prongs
going sideways. So only 2 prongs at a time on the inside where they make contact with the females, and
that did the trick. Not sure if that's causing your issue, but it sounds like you did unplug the playfield..

The circuit breaks from one rollover relay from each set. One from trough switch #!. The other from
trough switch #2.
I had metal fatigue before, but not often on pinball switches. They're made for bending..
I had a Bow & Arrow in a Local Tavern. It continuously (seemingly) needed contact adjustment.
After much time cleaning and getting played, it finally cleared up. Although all evidence evaporated
away, I'm thinking someone sprayed the hell out of it with some type of contact cleaner
and a (not so noticeable) film remained on the contacts. I'm not suggesting that's what's going
on with your machine, but I'm not thinking it's from weakness in the contacts, although I kinda felt
that way with that Bow & Arrow thinking maybe somehow all the switches got very hot.
At the time, I didn't know what to think. Nothing was noticeable.
Of course each contact has a mate. Perhaps if you put a little tension on the larger contact that's
in the bricket's (if that's what it's called) groove away from it's mate so the switch absolutely has
no play in that groove, and then adjust it's mating contact accordingly, that may help.
I myself never gave that advice, but I have no other clue how the switches could come un-adjusted
on their own. Hopefully it's just a couple switches for you. On that Bow & Arrow, the problem was
all over the place..

Just a thought and something I do…when adjusting a switch I first make sure the switch stack screws are tight adjusting the screw closest to the blades first. If you do this to any switches you have adjusted and the screws are slightly loose, you most likely will have to adjust the switch again.

That's a bummer - but clever fix!

I noticed the last badge of Flipper Fair's repro glasses not only lacks the Tilt,
but also the ladies skin has very minimum fleshtone.
I had 3 Flipper Fairs (still have 2) and without thinking the one I let go had
the backglass from the first batch which has the Tilt and fleshtone.
Both I still have has the same glass flaws as yours..

I'm pretty sure all of the reproduction backglasses for this title lack the "tilt". I had one many years ago, and noticed the error. That glass is no longer in my possession.

Any word on if someone builds replacement rainbows for the juggling ball?

I did. Once. A friend had a vacuum mold gizmo we used to stretch a rainbow-printed piece of PETG (I think) over a custom mold I made. It’s perfect.

Sadly, I only made one as a test… and Mr. Vacuum moved away before I could make more.

I still have the mold. Spoke with Jody (Ramp-O-Matic) at Allentown a year or two ago about making some more… but we didn’t move forward with it because I didn’t have a list of folks needing one.

I’ll count you as one.

Know anyone who might want to take on this project?

No, at the moment my rainbow suffices but it's definitely something i'll be looking to replace. I just wasn't even positive where to start since googling "Plastic mold fabrication" lead to an absolute rabbit hole of manufacturing I just did not know existed.

My brother scored a very nice "Flipper Fair" at the Allentown Pinfest flea market. It didn't have a backglass, but we found a reasonably decent one at the show as well. Unfortunately, when we installed it in the head out in the parking lot, we heard a "crack" sound as my brother tilted the light box insert in. Sure enough, the glass suffered a large crack from top to bottom! So, he could definitely use a backglass.
But, he set it up at home, and says it plays fine as found. Also, he says it's super clean and pristine inside. Low plays on it as evidenced by the original flipper links which have zero play in them. I think he got the EM deal of the show, with the possible exception of the Gottlieb "Show Boat" which was sold for $425!

It’s a fun game, and the clown motif I feel wards people off so you can buy it for a steal. Source: 2022-23 I bought mine for $125 ish

He's a happy, colorful, and benevolent looking clown. I don't get this coulrophobia thing.