(Topic ID: 294901)

Flipper Fair Restoration

By undrdog

8 days ago


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  • 17 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 21 hours ago by undrdog
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 8 days ago

I am finally getting to my Flipper Fair project.

This is my third project, but it will be the most complicated one I've done. The first was Wms Heat Wave. Mostly it needed cleaning and de-gunking. The second was Wms Hi-Hand which is a very simple machine although the reset motor switches gave me some real headaches.

My goal is to get the electric and mechanics all working to have a good running game. The Hi-Hand restore taught me to polish metal, so I'll be doing that on FF. But I don't have woodworking tools or the room, so I'll probably leave the cabinet bright yellow. It could be worse.

I'm still pretty much a beginner, so I would sure appreciate any guidance that anyone would care to bestow.

This is my first Gottlieb. The first thing I notice is that the switches are labeled much better than Wms does. For example, "Inside Sw - Resets Bank on Tilt. Second Sw- drops out "w" & "y" relays." Very helpful.

Sorry, IPDB, there aren't any serial number tags. If the serial number is carved into the cabinet, it is buried under the paint.

The backglass lost some paint on the short trip home. The paint just falls off. I have a wonderful new repro from Shay. I'm going to play around with triple thick on the original, when the humidity goes down. This original is better than nothing, so maybe someone would want it. If not, it will be good practice with triple thick.

The playfield is quite presentable. The only real issue I see, so far, is one of the inserts is badly cupped and will have to be replaced. The rest look fine, but I haven't played on them yet.

The coin door hook has a key for the back door, but it doesn't fit. The key number is LB 625, in case that means anything to someone. LB - Light Box?

The rods that work the flipper switches end with rolled electrician's tape. The buttons appear to be original and the levers look correct per the parts manual. The buttons came in three sizes. Maybe someone got the wrong ones and wrapped tape to compensate for the length. Its just a theory...

Step one: vacuuming it all out and starting to clean the jones plugs. The tens digit reel doesn't want to reset past 20, so that's a switch that needs to be looked at.

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#2 8 days ago

The machine resets when the 10s reel is at zero. Most of the bumpers work.

There is a switch at the very bottom of the playfield with burnt contacts and a burned off end. No idea what it does just yet.

The bells are loose. Not sure whether to tighten them up, but I'll cross that bridge after I polish them. Not a high priority.

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#3 8 days ago

And there is a switch in the back that is not on the schematic or on pictures at IPDB, discussed in another thread when I first got the machine. One of the first tasks will be to remove it.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/add-a-ball-has-an-extra-relay-in-the-back-box-#post-6222653

#4 8 days ago

Qs:

The 10s reel sticks at 2 when resetting. Manually, it rotates fine. What's so special about 2? Thinking maybe it is the score motor switches, but would there be anything there that cycles in 2s ?

What cleaner is used on the metal Gottlieb score reels that won't take off the numbers?

#5 8 days ago

I have used Novus 2 on my Gottlieb ‘64 reels with great results. (I even had a scratched wheel where it rode against a bulb socket, and it removed the black skid mark without affecting the numbers.)

The switch in your second post above looks like a tilt switch where the weighted end fell off. Unless you’re a fan of tilting, I would ignore it.

#6 7 days ago

The art is different, but the playfield layout looks just like my Crosstown. Great pop bumper action and fun game. Change to the orange dot coils for the flippers and they will be strong. Good luck with your project.

#7 6 days ago

Silverstreak02
Thanks for the tip on the coils. Do you have a guess as to what's going on with the tape on the flipper rods? They seem to work as intended, and they look correct judging by the parts catalog.

#8 6 days ago
Quoted from undrdog:

Silverstreak02
Thanks for the tip on the coils. Do you have a guess as to what's going on with the tape on the flipper rods? They seem to work as intended, and they look correct judging by the parts catalog.

My guess is they were electrically isolating the flipper button from the flipper switch. This isn’t needed if the fish paper on the switch is still there. Mine wasn’t so I put a piece of black heat shrink on the arm. Here are pictures of the actuating arm and the switch.

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#9 6 days ago

I'd have thought that too, except that there is so much tape wrapped that it seems to be done as a spacer. Or maybe they wrapped it like crazy and it has expanded through the years.

Quoted from Silverstreak02:

My guess is they were electrically isolating the flipper button from the flipper switch.

#10 6 days ago

Today was supposed to be cleaning jones plugs and switches.

This is turning out to be one of those projects where what ever you touch wants to fall apart. I'll be getting nylon washers to replace old spacers that the point relays sit on.

Two wires came off just from looking at them (on different relays). One of which led to me finding a point relay with a broken leaf.

This is going to be more of a project than I thought, but finding broken parts and fixing them seems better than not finding anything broken and trying to figure out what the problem is.

Found a long, broken resistor on the 0-9 unit.

Two of the wipers on one of the score units are wired together even though the little tubes they live in are already wired together on the bakelite. I guess wiring the wipers was easier than cleaning inside the tubes?

Spent all afternoon on that stuff... still haven't cleaned the jones plugs...

#11 5 days ago

AndrewP Novus did the trick! Thanks for the tip.

#12 5 days ago
Quoted from undrdog:

Two wires came off just from looking at them

The last Flipper Fair I went through (last year) seemed after re-soldering one tab,
another one came loose. Never had I worked on a machine as that one where so
many tabs would break loose from the slightest of movement..

#13 5 days ago

Mopar

Now you tell me!

#14 5 days ago
Quoted from undrdog:

Now you tell me!

Haha. Yea, but 3 or 4 years back I went through one and all was fine.
I still have one more in the barn. That one will determine the odds..

#15 1 day ago

My machine has two pins for add a ball on a score. One of them looks like a user mod, so there can be an add a ball at two different scores. Can someone please confirm whether there should be one or two pins at the Add Ball Score Adj. ?

#16 23 hours ago
Quoted from undrdog:

Can someone please confirm whether there should be one or two pins at the Add Ball Score Adj.

Two settings is common.
The one that's in the game room for added ball is set on 2,000 and 3,000,
but settings at 2,000 and 4,000 I'd say are more often seen..

#17 21 hours ago

Mopar Thanks.

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