Those caps are for anti-sparking which leads to pitting which leads to failure. I would install them, *and* put a set across the flipper cabinet switches.

You could leave them and they would be fine but may as well replace while you are rebuilding considering you already will have new ones in hand, it's a 3 minute switch, And a 5 to 10 cent part..

I wish they were that cheap, but they are not (two dollars each).

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=177

Or 75 cents each:
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/products.asp?cat=34

OK, the full flipper voltage goes through the EOS switch contacts AND the switch contacts under the flipper buttons on the insides of the cabinets.

These leaf switches have big fat tungsten contacts that should be as flat and clean as possible to minimize power loss and make the flippers nice and snappy.

The capacitors reduce electrical sparking when the switches make and break contact and keep the contacts clean. Otherwise the constant sparking builds up a layer of crud on the contacts.

This is why it's important for the capacitors to be there, and also why it's important when you are rebuilding the flippers to replace the EOS switches AND the cabinet switches with nice new clean switches. In my opinion.

RM

At the very least, file and polish the contact faces to a mirror finish.

The upper flipper EOS switch on my Meteor sparks horribly and I read that it was wise to add a cap here.
Would this one be the right one to use?

dont file, burnish.

Pretty sure filing is a bad idea.

I just had my EOS switch break off at the contact point and noticed the cap wasn't connected. Looks like it came apart due to age. I'm sure if it had a cap fully functioning that wouldn't have happened. Short answer, yes, replace it.

On a related note, is there a general rule for sizing flipper caps? I have an early Bally SS pin I want to add them on (43V for coils I think) and a custom one I'm working on which is 28V DC.

For tungsten hardface contacts, you HAVE to file them when they're pitted badly. OK they could be replaced, but I'm a CARGPB.

Burnishing is to polish by rubbing. If you mean rubbing with a file I agree. Anything else will be ineffectual as the tungsten is so hard. You will be rubbing for years.

Sometimes I have to start with a bastard file like this

bastard_(resized).jpg

to get all the pitting out down to shiny metal. Then I follow up with a pair of point files like these (one rough, one fine)

point_(resized).jpg

to polish the contact faces to a mirror finish.

Goldflash logic switches are different. They should never be filed until the contact wear makes the surface of the contact irregular from years of pressing together. By then they should be replaced anyway as they are at end-of-life so What does it hurt to try to file the surface smooth again? Just don't try it until you have your replacement handy in case you kill the switch completely. All you've wasted is a little time...

The 2.2 uf @ 250 volts will work for your end of stroke switches on the flipper assemblies.

Use a .1 uf @ 500 volts ceramic disc capacitor across the flipper button (cabinet) switches.

I was looking for some .1 uf @ 500 volts ceramic disc capacitors for the flipper switches. I don't want to pay the shipping fees from the normal pinball part vendors for a couple of capacitors. I was looking on Amazon and found a number of kits that had the .1uf capacitors but they were 50 volt, and some were 1000 volt. Can someone tell me for future reference if 50v or 1000v would be bad to use?

I finally found these on Ebay and have purchased, so I hope this helps others:

ebay.com link: itm