(Topic ID: 303804)

Flipper Button Switch Blades

By Enochsmoken

2 years ago


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  • 21 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by Rikoshay
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    #1 2 years ago

    Does anyone know who sells new switch blades for early SS Bally flipper buttons? I need to replace mine.

    Thanks,
    Brad

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    #2 2 years ago

    PBR sells the blades and contacts

    #4 2 years ago

    No. EOS not flipper button and low power. Those in the picture are burned, high power.

    LTG : )

    #5 2 years ago
    Quoted from LTG:

    No. EOS not flipper button and low power. Those in the picture are burned, high power.
    LTG : )

    Yes the contacts are very bad, pitted. I blew the 43V F4 fuse and have been looking for the source of the high current. Do you think my flipper switches could be causing it? The flipper units are pretty much all rebuilt with new switches and coils.

    Thanks,
    Brad

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    #6 2 years ago
    Quoted from Enochsmoken:

    Do you think my flipper switches could be causing it?

    No, just not enough power.

    Your EOS not opening soon enough more likely blowing the fuse.

    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-upgradingrebuilding-flippers

    LTG : )

    #7 2 years ago
    Quoted from LTG:

    No, just not enough power.
    Your EOS not opening soon enough more likely blowing the fuse.
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-upgradingrebuilding-flippers
    LTG : )

    Cool Thanks for the link.
    Brad

    #9 2 years ago
    Quoted from LTG:

    No, just not enough power.
    Your EOS not opening soon enough more likely blowing the fuse.
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-upgradingrebuilding-flippers
    LTG : )

    I guess this is what blew the fuse? Any idea what might have caused this?

    Thanks,
    Brad

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    #10 2 years ago
    Quoted from Enochsmoken:

    Any idea what might have caused this?

    EOS not opening and flipper button held in until fuse blew and coil melted.

    You missing a wire on that coil ?

    LTG : )

    #11 2 years ago
    Quoted from LTG:

    EOS not opening and flipper button held in until fuse blew and coil melted.
    You missing a wire on that coil ?
    LTG : )

    Not sure. I desoldered the power wires and pulled it out. I basically built new ones from looking at the old ones. Maybe they were not wired correctly. I might be in over my head.

    #12 2 years ago
    Quoted from Enochsmoken:

    I might be in over my head.

    Please get help if you need it.

    Carefully study vid1900's guide.

    I was referring to your picture, red arrows point to where some wires might go.

    LTG : )

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    #13 2 years ago
    Quoted from LTG:

    Please get help if you need it.
    Carefully study vid1900's guide.
    I was referring to your picture, red arrows point to where some wires might go.
    LTG : )

    Here is the how it was wired up on the playfield before I removed it.

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    #14 2 years ago
    Quoted from Enochsmoken:

    Here is the how it was wired up on the playfield before I removed it.

    Compare to Vid's guide.

    LTG : )

    #15 2 years ago

    Can you post a pic showing the diodes on the coil?

    The power wire, assuming the green on the RHS must go to the banded side of the diodes.

    Helps to have same colour wires for the EOS switch, and different, as per schematic for flipper power and ground, different colours.

    #16 2 years ago
    Quoted from Rikoshay:

    Can you post a pic showing the diodes on the coil?
    The power wire, assuming the green on the RHS must go to the banded side of the diodes.
    Helps to have same colour wires for the EOS switch, and different, as per schematic for flipper power and ground, different colours.

    The cathode on both diodes are facing the switch. The positive voltage is supplied by the brown wire.
    Brad

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    #17 2 years ago

    yes that is correct, brown is the common power wire to both flipper coils, banded diode side.

    but I don't see the other windings coming from the coil (under the wrapper) to the middle and left hand lug in top pic.

    #18 2 years ago
    Quoted from Rikoshay:

    yes that is correct, brown is the common power wire to both flipper coils, banded diode side.
    but I don't see the other windings coming from the coil (under the wrapper) to the middle and left hand lug in top pic.

    Here it is. It does look like it is not there in top image.

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    #19 2 years ago

    Cool.

    The other wires don't go as suggested in post #12
    Only one (either one) of your EOS switch wires goes to the middle lug.

    The common brown power wire goes to the right hand lug (in the pic above) where you see the grey/silver band on the diode.
    Your EOS (end of stroke) switches are wired correctly and must have continuity across them, zero resistance, meaning they must make perfect contact until opened by the flipper crank. The gap of the opening should be at least 3mm or 1/8th of an inch when flipper is at it's maximum travel.
    Your other coloured wired (green for the left) goes to the left hand lug.
    On your right hand coil it will be an orange wire to the left hand lug.

    #20 2 years ago
    Quoted from Rikoshay:

    Cool.
    The other wires don't go as suggested in post #12
    Only one (either one) of your EOS switch wires goes to the middle lug.
    The common brown power wire goes to the right hand lug (in the pic above) where you see the grey/silver band on the diode.
    Your EOS (end of stroke) switches are wired correctly and must have continuity across them, zero resistance, meaning they must make perfect contact until opened by the flipper crank. The gap of the opening should be at least 3mm or 1/8th of an inch when flipper is at it's maximum travel.
    Your other coloured wired (green for the left) goes to the left hand lug.
    On your right hand coil it will be an orange wire to the left hand lug.

    I figured out what problem was. The EOS switch was opening but one side of the contact was barely touching, so it was not open at all. Oh well time to buy a new coil. Thanks for helping out.
    Brad

    #21 2 years ago

    no worries!

    easy for me to spend your money, but depending on the other coil, I suggest replacing both with new.

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