First thing, all four work the same way so if all for are not working we should look for something in common. But let’s start simple.

So to get No# 1 to flip, we need to make sure the No#1 flip Relay is not energised and then close the No#1 target Switch, this should energise the No#1 Target Relay, and in turn energise the No#1 flip coil.

So Below, the red line happens first. We close the target Sw, than though a Sw on the #1 Flip RE with Orange/Red wire and Grey/Yellow wire, this should energise the #1 Target Relay and it should stay on by its own hold sw (Purple line below).

Now the #1Target RE is energised , the Target RE SW (Green line) is closed, at least should be. Then we go thought the #1 Flip RE Sw Grey/Red wire and White/Blue wire, energising the Flip coil.

Hope this is as clear as mud, but let us know what you fine, and we will take it from there.

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Hi pinbrick
strange - in here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/flip-flag-frustration I wrote in post-2
about "Self-Hold-Circuitry of the No-1, No-2, No-3, No-4-Target-Relays - do they pull-in long (time) enough (so the activating of the flip-goodies can be done) ?" -
No answer, but "topic marked as solved" (?)

Here again - my question -> ipdb-schema -> H-20 -> the End-of-stroke-Switch on Bonus-Unit -> is this Normally-Closed-Switch truely closed ? contact-points clean ? wires soldered-on ? (((When the Bonus-Unit is stepped-up one step: at the very end of movement this EOS-Switch is opened, it has soldered-on: wire-color-30-yellow and wire-color-65-brown-white))). Greetings Rolf

Hi pinbrick
the "Flip Flop" is a "modern" pin - the manufacturers invented a feature I do NOT like - it makes troubleshooting more difficult. The feature is - When a ball is kicked over to the shooter alley: The Bonus ladder is stepped up one step --- ALL balls start with ONE bonus.

Well, you play a given ball -> You make points and bonus -> You loose the ball -> rolls into the Outhole -> "Bonus count down is activated" -> Bonus counted down to ZERO -> then activating the Outhole Relay -> this does make the ball kicked over to the shooter alley AND makes the Bonus Unit to step-up one step (I do not like that feature).

When we want to be nice and friendly to the pin: We unplug the main power chord (or at least toggle-off the main power switch - Safety Reasons) -> we manually step down the Bonus Unit to position Zero (we simulate: Game before has ended normal - means: Bonus ladder has been completely stepped down) -> we plug-in and start a new game -> Reset shoulfd be done -> Outhole-Relay should be activated -> ball should be kicked over to the shooter alley AND the Bonus Unit should be stepped up ONE step.

Unplug the main power chord and step the Bonus-Unit into a direction -> all the way. The plug-in and start a game -> what happens ?
Then unplug the main power chord and step the Bonus Unit all the way into THE OTHER DIRECTION etc. -> -> what happens ?

The Bonus Unit can (only) step into two directions - try out both. Maybe You see on the playfield (when plugging-in / toggling-on): Bonus are on the Bonus Counter (?).

I am German speaking - what is "wire threads were still on the strand" ? / "Amount of wire" ?

The wires (gauge) used in the pins are rather "thin wires" or "heavier wires" - a wire that connects "transformer-HOT-Side -> Lug on coil (A) -> Lug on coil (B) -> C, D, E etc": heavier wire.
The same with "wire leading (back) to transformer-Lug-Yellow".

Write, if You habe problems "stepping up / stepping down" on the Bonus Unit.
Write about a specific "problem to be solved". Greetings Rolf

Hi pinbrick
a wire can be "A) soldered-on" or it has "B) broken-off --- but accidently stay in place making contact - sometimes ..." or "C) has broken-off completely and the broken-off end touches NOTHING else" or "D has broken-off and the broken-off end toches some other place".

I prefer simple "C" type errors - I like more the type of error "something is not happening" I like more than "a crazy thing IS happening".

I do not know the Flip-Flop-Bonus-Unit - there are two possibilities to step - if we want to step down - so I wrote "try out both directions".

Actually the Flip-Flop must and running pins do: When You start a new game (game before has ended ab-normal, some bonus still on the counter) - when resetting the Score-Drums for a new game: At the same time : (fully functioning) Flip-Flop pins do ALSO (at the same time) reset / step down the Bonus-Ladder.
So we might as well check it -> manually step the bonus-Unit somewhere into "middle position" - then start a game - question: Whzen the Reset-Relay is pulling and the Score-Motor is running: Does the pin ALSO steps down the Bonus Unit ? Greetings Rolf

Hi pinbrick
I do not know the Flip Flop (have played it - but many years ago). Here: http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=889&picno=10200&zoom=1 on top there are Rollover-Buttons. I believe: They do activate the corresponding No-X-Target-Relay (1,2,3,4). BUT - IF (if) - for the brain of the pin: The corresponding flip-goodie HAS (ALREADY) flipped: Simple 100 points are given - the No-X-Target-Relay is no more activated.

Look at schema H-14: Two No-1-Rollover-Bottons -> A Make-and-Brake-Switch on No-1-Flip-Relay -> maybe -> No-1-Target-Relay is activated --- maybe -> -> text: "to G-26" -> at G-26 the 100-Point-Relay is activated.
So look at No-1-Flip-Relay - pulling or not pulling ? Its Make-and-Brake-switch ? contacts-points clean ? wires soldered-on ? middle blade touches EITHER Outside-Blade-A (not pulling) --- OR touches Outside-Blade-B (relay is pulling) ? Greetings Rolf