(Topic ID: 240057)

Flip a Card restoration


By EMsInKC

1 year ago



Topic Stats

  • 24 posts
  • 14 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by EMsInKC
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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    #1 1 year ago

    I just completed a restoration of a Gottlieb Flip a Card. This was a total repaint, lots of playfield touchups, the usual rebuilds etc. The backglass came from bgresto.

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    #2 1 year ago

    Very nice job.
    Webbing especially looks great.

    #3 1 year ago

    Gorgeous! How do you do your webbing?

    #4 1 year ago

    Great job, you nailed the cabinet and webbing, not an easy task... good game, thanks for saving a GTB classic!!!

    #5 1 year ago

    Nice job and attention to detail. Another one saved.

    #6 1 year ago

    Yea Scott, very nice. What do you think of the bgresto glass? you may want to use superbright leds in the head behind the cards.

    ken

    #7 1 year ago

    I saw Scott's Time Zone last week with a recent BGResto glass in it and he indicated he used just 44 lamps and it was just as bright as if it was an original glass. BGR must be getting the process down.

    Nice work Scott. Are you liking the game play?

    #8 1 year ago
    Quoted from Xenon75:

    Gorgeous! How do you do your webbing?

    A plain old Weiler brush. Once you get the technique down it works pretty well. I know some guys use a paint sprayer but I've never worked up the nerve to try that yet. I just stick with what I know.

    Quoted from pinhead52:

    Yea Scott, very nice. What do you think of the bgresto glass? you may want to use superbright leds in the head behind the cards.
    ken

    I'll have to take a picture of it. Actually, I think they are really bright. As Mike noted, I use 44s behind there and they light up really nicely. Since the game isn't on continuously like on location and the bgresto glass will not peel, I use them on every glass from there that I have.

    Quoted from MikeO:

    I saw Scott's Time Zone last week with a recent BGResto glass in it and he indicated he used just 44 lamps and it was just as bright as if it was an original glass. BGR must be getting the process down.
    Nice work Scott. Are you liking the game play?

    Those glasses are really good. You still have to be careful with them but you don't have to worry quite as much about random scratches happening and heat/cold/humidity changes messing with the ink. I think Ron Webb does outstanding work with repro glasses and I have a couple of his and love them, but the good thing about bgresto is you can get these glasses that are not going to be reproduced because they're not the in demand games like some others. I think his work on Time Zone is some of the best I've ever seen.

    I'm enjoying playing it so far, although it is still in the shop while I make sure it's all sorted out, so I haven't leveled it and I don't have a playfield glass yet, that's coming next week. There was a lot of small adjustments necessary. Even when you take them totally apart, take all the relays apart and clean all the switches, still, things are rarely perfect. The usual "looks like it's making but isn't" switch problems crop up. The King wouldn't score and the center bumper would score on 100 points but not on 10. Both were m/b adjustment issues. Then the match wouldn't work. That was the wiper on the AS 0-9 unit not having quite enough pressure. Those things are such a PITA. The bumper issue was that switch that rides on the cog inside the AS, and it's tough to adjust with the unit all together. Got it though.

    I should know better, but I left the trip bank switches alone and sure enough, I had problems. The trip bank relays are responsible for the inserts being lit up, and then when spotted, the insert goes out and the backglass cards light. Had to clean/adjust most of them to get it right. Another m/b deal.

    I didn't realize that the Flip a Card name on the backglass only lights at game over. I've got 455s in there and when I powered on, all of them were out, and I was not happy. Then I hit the game over relay and boom, on they come. That's different.

    I appreciate all the kind words. I love restoring these things I think sometimes more than actually playing them. But I'm just a cake decorator. A lot of the credit for these games coming out this nice are all the guys out there who make the stuff that I use to decorate the cake. So here's a free ad for PBR, Pinball Rescue, Pinball Pimp, Pinball Plating and more, and bgresto. They all got a chunk of my money on this one and per usual, I'm in way more than the game is worth, but I don't care. I'm not in this for the money. It's the fun of restoring something that is rough and barely working and bringing it back to where it was when it left the factory, and hopefully, in some ways, better.

    #9 1 year ago

    Really nice work Scott. Did you have any hiccups adjusting the spinner to your liking?
    -Chris

    #10 1 year ago
    Quoted from phergott:

    Really nice work Scott. Did you have any hiccups adjusting the spinner to your liking?
    -Chris

    Not really. It worked decently when I got it. Just needed some cleaning. The AS spin relay was what really needed the work.

    I think it makes at least three revolutions on the spin now before it stops. I'm happy with it.

    #11 1 year ago

    Wonderful job Scott! Beautiful machine.

    #12 1 year ago

    The black legs look kinda nice on it, certainly better then new chrome

    #13 1 year ago

    That's beautiful!

    #14 1 year ago
    Quoted from pinhead52:

    The black legs look kinda nice on it, certainly better then new chrome

    Powdercosted.

    #15 1 year ago

    Great job! Curious to know what type of paint and shade you used o the cabinet. It appears to be a good combination of not too bright white, but not too tan either.

    #16 1 year ago
    Quoted from Topcard:

    Great job! Curious to know what type of paint and shade you used o the cabinet. It appears to be a good combination of not too bright white, but not too tan either.

    All three are Montana Gold. Shock white cream for the base, shock black and ketchup for the graphics. I use Minwax polycrylic semi gloss to clear the cab. It smooths out the finish and gives it a nice even sheen.

    #17 1 year ago
    Quoted from EMsInKC:

    Minwax polycrylic semi gloss

    Excellent!
    Thanks

    #18 1 year ago
    Quoted from EMsInKC:

    All three are Montana Gold. Shock white cream for the base

    How many cans did you use for the base color?

    #19 1 year ago

    Great work Scott! Looks great!

    If I were to ever buy a 2" Flipper game again and only have room for one it would be Flip a Card.

    Have fun with it!

    Ken

    #20 1 year ago
    Quoted from KevinD:

    How many cans did you use for the base color?

    I think five. Not sure on that.

    I sand the cabinet down and do whatever Bondo filling is needed. Then I use a high build auto primer in gray to prime the cabinet. It really helps show any flaws that you miss when you sand it down. It looks and feels smooth but there are always places you miss. I then spot fill those with spot filler, sand it down, and hit it again with the primer. The primer will fill small flaws in the paint. After that, start with the base. Lots of light coats. Montana is a paint where you can go fairly heavy and it will not run, but it can leave a grainy texture at times. So after the base has a few coats, lightly sand, and go again. After it's where I want it, I do the webbing, lightly sand a final time to take the high spots off the webbing and tone it down a bit.

    Then the stenciling, and then the clear, and it's ready for re-assembly.

    #21 1 year ago
    Quoted from EMsInKC:

    I think five. Not sure on that.
    I sand the cabinet down and do whatever Bondo filling is needed. Then I use a high build auto primer in gray to prime the cabinet. It really helps show any flaws that you miss when you sand it down. It looks and feels smooth but there are always places you miss. I then spot fill those with spot filler, sand it down, and hit it again with the primer. The primer will fill small flaws in the paint. After that, start with the base. Lots of light coats. Montana is a paint where you can go fairly heavy and it will not run, but it can leave a grainy texture at times. So after the base has a few coats, lightly sand, and go again. After it's where I want it, I do the webbing, lightly sand a final time to take the high spots off the webbing and tone it down a bit.
    Then the stenciling, and then the clear, and it's ready for re-assembly.

    I appreciate all of the info. I do have another question. When you say you used a Weiler brush to do the webbing, did you mean one of these?:
    s-l500[1] (resized).jpg

    #22 1 year ago
    Quoted from KevinD:

    I appreciate all of the info. I do have another question. When you say you used a Weiler brush to do the webbing, did you mean one of these?:
    [quoted image]

    Yup. That's it. Takes a little practice but once you get the technique it works well.

    #23 1 year ago
    Quoted from EMsInKC:

    Yup. That's it. Takes a little practice but once you get the technique it works well.

    I always have trouble with the webbing. Do you thin the paint, or?
    I have been using black lacquer for webbing, what do you use?

    #24 1 year ago
    Quoted from dasvis:

    I always have trouble with the webbing. Do you thin the paint, or?
    I have been using black lacquer for webbing, what do you use?

    Plain old Americana lamp black, right out of the bottle.

    Put some on a paper plate or whatever. I bend out four or five bristles of the brush. Dip the ends in the paint. Not too heavy. Put the brush close to the cab, pull back on the bristles down near where they attach, and let go. Takes some practice.

    If the brush is too far away you get spatter. I kind of flick my wrist at the same time. Too much paint and it will blob.

    Get a piece of cardboard and practice on it. You'll get it.

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