Haven't posted one of these threads in awhile and I didn't see much tech advice for FS so here we go

Disclaimer: I've done full tear downs (some with decals) for about 10 to 15 games. I'm still learning but hopefully this will be helpful to some folks and if there is a better way to do something please let me know.

Ok the goal of this project will be to install a nos pf into the game. I'm sure the scope will creep and I'll end up doing some cab work too.

First step pull game from line up to get some space. Don't harm small children in the process.

Step 2 take a few pics of the connections in the head then pull all the connectors that go to the pf. Also note on this game the wire harness are routed a bit different due to the divertor on the backboard. Also important to cut the zip tie that ties the pf harness to the backbox before you try and pull the pf out
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Make sure the balls are out of the trough and move the wires onto the pf

Next step, and you'll want a friends help for this, pull the pf out of the game and put it in your rotisserie. Make sure to build a rotisserie first

Then I take some detailed pics of smaller sections of the game before I start taking anything off. Also get your common tools lined up baggies and a pen and paper to write down parts you need to replace as you go
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Now start pulling shit off the game. I like to take things off by layers. Usually I break it down into 3 topside layers. Then all the assemblies, boards and misc stuff on the bottom. I'll take detailed section pics again before each layer and also take pictures of all connectors and coils. Sometimes things overlap - top and bottom side. So if I have to take parts off the bottom to get something off on top I keep it together on my table in that layer. Hope that makes sense to someone else other than me
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So you may be asking yourself why did he show all those baggies. In my layering system I sub divide into smaller sections and bag the stuff together. I clean and polish everything and will take all the assemblies apart so his just makes it easier for me. The first section has the ramps and other big parts, next all the plastics and some posts. Finally all the metal rails. Then most of the under side parts. Also you have to deal with the wiring harness eventually. I used to hate scrubbing down that thing with a tooth brush - now it goes into the ultra sonic and comes out like new
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The new pf has some flasher holes missing so I think I'll have to drill those out. Also missing a few other wiring holes and the backside is not dimpled. As this is my first pf swap (all other games I've done have used the same pf) this should get interesting. New pf has some scuffs so have to sand it down too
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I was on vacation for a week so getting back to this.

I bought a piece of plexiglass and used it as a template to mark all the holes I had to drill. I used the pf rails to make a corner and make sure the plexi stayed in the same place.

I hope it works when I start putting everything back on!

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Getting back to this after expo. So far the holes on the pf that I drilled seem to be lining up. I got a fee things through the tumbler and it's always nice having some help finding all the parts. Also started some cabinet work. Such a pita to sand down lots of over spray on the bottom and still lots more work to do

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Also a few money shots for Mccune

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Sorry everyone. I've been slacking on the updates. Had some time this weekend and with the holiday to get some work done.

Cleaned and buffed all the mechs under the pf. And put new wrappers on the coils. Stapled in new leads for the pop bumper lights too.

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Also finished painting the cabinet. It turned out pretty good. I see some spots that could have been better but overall it's better than before - look up a few posts for before shot

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Made a new ramp flap from the spring steel you can buy at pin restore. I just trace the old shape with a sharpie, make the main cuts with a pair of scissors then shape the detail with a small grinding stone.

Not shown in the pic but then mark the rivet holes and drill through on a flat peice of wood.

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Had a few rusted out parts to deal with. I use some steel wool and rust remover, sand and buff.

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Also started sanding and buffing some of the ball guides.

Next steps are to finish the first layer of stuff on the pf so I can still get to lights and switches. Then I'll clean the wiring harness and need to get the cabinet and head cleaned up and parts installed so I can do initial testing of the pf.

Still lots to do!

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A productive weekend as I'm almost done with the first layer. Still need to get the backboard, 2 drop target banks, and ball trough cleaned and installed. Going to start to devote some time to clean up the head and re-populate all the stuff in the cabinet in the next few weeks so I can test the work done so far

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Also a before and after shot of the bowling part. It was all surface rusted so I removed the rest of the black paint and just polished it up. I think it turned out nice. I'm not going to paint it

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Now is the time in the project where I wished I had a larger dedicated space to work. I have 3 tacks going now playfield, cabinet head, and main cabinet all with different work going on.

The drop target banks are installed and work has begun wiring up the playfield. The ultrasonic cleaner works wonders for wiring harness.

Also replaced all the target switches. No one in the us had the black face ones for behind the bowling. So I went with orange. I know I know it's not the factory correct color. But I wasn't going to spend 75 bucks on three targets from Australia.

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I cleaned up all the boards and the plate behind them. Also relocated the batteries off the CPU board. Sanded the bottom just for good measure. I had to restrain myself from painting and screening the warning text. It still looks good on the game just a few small scratches.

But I will be painting this light board. Can't let that go back into the game

Last pic is before in the back box

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Starting to work through cleaning everything in the cabinet. Hopefully I can make some good progress on that this weekend. Need to get the new ground braid stapled in and glue the speaker block back on.

What happened to my half way clear counter... More shit to clean.

Might buff that leg bracket to finish just cleaned so far

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Work is still progressing. I installed the high power wiring harness under the pf so just need to get a few little things done in the cabinet to be ready to test.

A few cabinet shots of the progress below.

Installing new ground braid
Painted transformer
Head back on. Cabinet wire harness installed

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These stern cabinet protectors are a must now for any game

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I finished work on the light panel - sanded it down and new gloss white paint

Also sanded and cleaned the dmd panel

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I wanted to say thank you to flashinctinct all the new decals are from his run. They look great!

I did not do any work to the head of the cabinet. I go back and forth on this. The head was in good shape and it is all original but new paint and new screened text would have looked nice too. What do you guys think?

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Thanks Hilton. Every game I do I get a little better and go a little further.

But usually I'm done with a game after I play it for a bit after spending so much time tearing it apart and putting it back together (one of the reasons I have held off restoring my shadow and IJ). But my wife really likes this game so it had that working for it.

It would look nicer to have fresh paint and warning text on the back... I don't know I guess the original text is not that pristine. Let me think a little more. Not to much work to tape off the sides and sand and paint the back... Lol. I don't have a great place to paint just my side of the garage with a smal heater

One more pic I wanted to share. So this pf is a sample or early production or something. The gi hole on the left side behind the standups is different and overlaps the standup target. I changed out the light holder with an insert style lamp holder and used a flex bulb. This fix should work pretty good.

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Thanks everyone

Moved the pf next to the cabinet and connected the wire harness to the boards.

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The moment of truth. It works

All coils working, I had one target switch wired backwards and needed to reflow solder on one controlled lamp. Pretty good first test.

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Still some big things left to clean and install. This was a pita to take all the posts off. All will go into the tumbler

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Most of the plastics installed

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Also got the machine finished all 17 posts screwed in.

I went with white rubber and gray cliffy post sleeves

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Working on a few lighting mods. I think all these are talked about in the flintstones members thread.

I used the comet pinball 7 smd light strips.

One green in the Dino, have 2 right now under the arch ( May need another to get more light under "flintstones"), and will have 2 each for each house plastic. I tried a blue light stri for the blue house but the color was not strong enough to show through. Going to go just with the natural white strips - pictured below - have to order a few more

Things left to do include cleaning the ramps. The ramp flaps have some surface rust so have to take them off also the metal ramp protectors need to come off and they are also riveted so that will be fun. Also have a few odds and ends in the cabinet to clean and buff

One of the last steps I plan on doing is tighting up the wiring harness with more zip ties to give a cleaner look to the run. Do this last after you make sure everything works

Also, still thinking about painting the back of the head. May be 50 degrees on Saturday in the chicago area.

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Lol. No old pf had a few inserts lifting and just minor wear.

And thank you everyone for the support

Wow can't believe it's been a month. I was sick for 2 weeks then with Christmas and New Years time just gets away for you.

Someone asked me a question on how I'm wiring up the houses so a good opportunity to get this restore back on track.

I used the 7 smd led strips from Comet pinball. 3 in the house on the right and 2 in the left

Cut 2 holes in the house on the right, then test the strips and see where you want to place them. Next cut off all the quick connectors and solder the 3 strips together. Then get some scrap wire and solder a longer lead to the black section and the red section. I like to cover all the solder joints with heat shrink tubing. Then one of the connectors you cut off solder to the end of you new leads. I drilled a small hole at the bottom of the house for the wire to come through and also added a connector to the the right ramp for the wire to go straight down and under the plastic through a hole under the pf.

I tied this into the gi behind the shell standups and cleaned it up a little. The other side of the connector can also bet cut from one of the various connector types sent with the led strips. I already had this one connected and didn't want to take apart. I'll get better pics with the left side

Looks like this:

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The left side same idea but I only need 2 of the 7 smd strips. Also there was an existing hole on the bottom that I ran the wires out. I used the heat shrink the whole way as this will sit under the wire return ramp and that will be the same look as the switch wiring next to it.

I also could have tied this to the gi behind the shells on the left side but it's on the same gi circuit as the other side so decided to run it back to the roll over lanes. Excuse the wiring mess still need to go through and zip tie them all nice and tight.

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Then when all done it will look very nice

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