(Topic ID: 226754)

Flintstones Playfield Shop Reference Pics and Notes-*DONE*

By cody_chunn

1 year ago

Topic Stats

  • 30 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by ccbiggsoo7
  • Topic is favorited by 13 Pinsiders


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Topic poll

“Does Flintstones need a shop thread?”

  • Sure, why not 12 votes
  • Nah, Flintstones is documented enough 1 vote

(13 votes)

Topic Gallery

There have been 115 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

Upper field (resized).JPG
Right inlane outlane Switches (resized).JPG
Left Uturn VUK plates (resized).JPG
Left Rollovers (resized).JPG
0001a Lower midfield (resized).JPG
Rt Slingshot and switches (resized).JPG
Left Slingshot and  Switches (resized).JPG
Right Standups (resized).JPG
Middle White Oblongs (resized).JPG
Left Standups (resized).JPG
Left Sling posts and rings (resized).JPG
Metal shooter guide (resized).JPG
001c Riser gets washer (2) (resized).JPG
001b Apron Riser gets Washer (resized).JPG
Outhole Plates and Risers (resized).JPG
Outhole Metal Guides (resized).JPG

#1 1 year ago

I have a bunch of pictures and notes I gathered for shopping out a Flintstones playfield. Checking to see if you think it's worth the effort to transcribe here. It will be pretty long, I suppose and will take a while to finish. It's not a guide exactly, but it will have, hopefully, some useful sequencing info and other tid-bits that might assist someone brave enough to tackle shopping out a Trudeau design. They are not for the faint-of-heart!

It will be a bunch of posts like this one...so check it out and vote if I should keep going or give it a rest already.


On every other game that I can remember, I always start with the apron. This being Flintstones, I started with the apron "attempt" and ran into trouble on step one. The apron itself is: 2 long panhead machine screws in the flipper lanes; 2 e-clips for the ramp return ball diverters; 2 11/32 nuts with washers above and below the plastic on the risers at the top of the slings; 2 long wood screws underfield up into the molded standoffs.

001 Apron slings Area2 (resized).jpg
Left Return Ball Diverter2 (resized).jpg
Right Return Ball Diverter (resized).JPG

This gets the apron loose, but it has to mount straight up and down, and you can see in the pic that the left return rail is on top of the apron plastic, so that rail has to be loosened enough to slide up enough to clear the apron. So I had to leave the apron in place and forge onward...

Please vote yea or nay if you want to see more...

#2 1 year ago

Leaving the apron for the time being, I removed the buildings on the left and right sides. Left has three long 1/4" hex head wood screws, right side has 2. Both sides have long, metal brackets fastened to the playfield rails with 1/4" hex head wood screws.
Left Buildings etc (resized).JPG
Right Buildings etc (resized).JPG
Right Buildings Bracket2 (resized).jpg

#3 1 year ago

Next comes Joe's Diner billboard: small machine screw at the bottom into post; 5/16" locknut at the top.
Joe's Diner_Freds Choice C (resized).JPG
Then unplug all the underfield connectors with harnesses that pass through the playfield: Fred's choice C and right ramp; left ramp and rail; wires going to the Machine top left; bundle of three top center of field.
Lamp Boards Removed2 (resized).jpg
Remove the right ramp:
Right Ramp Entrance (resized).JPGRight Ramp Mounts and Switches (resized).JPGRight Ramp Top (resized).JPG
plastic #-25 is under ramp so pull the ramp (right post) then -25 plastic and Fred's choice C with cable down through with 11/32" locknuts on risers; with flat washers above and below plastic and a washer under the riser at the playfield to prevent riser from sinking into the field. Similar shown.
001c Riser gets washer (2) (resized).JPG001b Apron Riser gets Washer (resized).JPG
Right ramp components:Right Ramp components (resized).JPG

#4 1 year ago

Great! Following...

#5 1 year ago

Thanks for sharing and I recently bought a Flintstones. I had to remove the apron so I could cut and install the inlane decals I printed. I also removed the buildings on both sides to light them up with LED strips too. I will be following and marked this as one of my favorites in case one day I need to reference it for a full tear down.

#6 1 year ago

I love threads like this. Share away!

#7 1 year ago

Thanks, guys. I had to pause for a bit because I didn't get a good pic of the -25 plastic with the ramp off. It's the purple plastic right behind the right ramp right post.
Right Ramp Entrance -25 (resized).jpg
That guy.

So the right ramp has two 11/32" nuts with washers over and under the plastic.
Right Ramp Mounts and Switches2 (resized).jpg
I also put a washer under these risers to prevent further sinking into the plastic.
Then the screw on the left post and a 5/16" nut on the right, which also holds Fred's Choice C bracket.
Right Ramp Entrance2 (resized).jpg
The right ramp should now slide out of the apron slots and come free. The risers removed above should have freed up plastic -6.

More to come...

#8 1 year ago

IM about to throw mine on a rotisserie.
Following. I need a complete teardown. Glass broke and its embedded in everything. Arrghhh!

#9 1 year ago

Once you get the right ramp out, here's what's under
Under Right Ramp Guides and Posts (resized).JPG

NOTE: If you need to rebuild the upper flipper, do so now with the right ramp off. You cannot slide the bat and shaft up and out with the ramp installed.

Now Fred's Choice A plastic over BED targets. 2 5/16" nuts.
Then the screw for the left return rail. Long 1/4" hex head screw with two washers over and a solid metal spacer below rails. Just above the lower shell on the left side.

Here is where I wiggled the apron free.

HOWEVER, the keystone of the playfield is The Machine's exit plasti-form. The left return rail and apron will probably be quite a bit easier to remove with this piece loose.
The Machine exit plastiform (resized).JPG
Just count on installing this little item last.

Slide the left return rail down and remove the dict-a-bird: two 1/4" hex head wood screws.
Now that left return rail can rotate out.
Grab the washers at the top of the risers mounted on the upper sling posts.

More to come...

#10 1 year ago

I pulled the left ramp next. Two 1/4" hex head machine screws in posts either side of the entrance; one 11/32" nut about half way up on a riser stud with washers above and below plastic.

0001b Upper midfield2 (resized).jpg

It fits snugly between the bottom of The Machine and bowling pin bracket. Here's the left ramp parts:

Left ramp entrance (resized).JPG

Left ramp turn around (resized).JPGLeft ramp top (resized).JPGLeft ramp items (resized).JPG

Now that the ramp is out of the way, you have access to the Bronto skin clamp.

Bronto skin mounted and clamped2 (resized).jpgBronto skin clamp screw2 (resized).jpg

Don't take the screw all the way out. Just loosen it a bit so the skin can slide out undamaged.

More to come...

#11 1 year ago

Now pull the nuts holding the purple -19 plastic behind the bowling pins.
purple -19 (resized).jpg
-19 nut (resized).jpg

Loosening -19 gets you access to the BRONTO frame. Remove the long machine screw with star lock washer, and one wood screw.

Now the -19 can be lifted away, leaving below

Left Uturn VUK plates (resized).JPG

#12 1 year ago

Remove all three bumper caps. These are currently not available from Pinball Resource. I think they were only used on Flints and AFM. So be careful with them.
Pop Bumpers and Posts (resized).JPG

Remove Fred's Choice B on post below upper left pop bumper, with wires. Careful with these wires. They can get caught in the pop and get cut. One 5/16" nut with washer above and below bracket.
Bronto skin clamp screw2 (resized).jpg

To be pintinued...

#13 1 year ago

Next up, the diverter ball guide:

Diverter to bronto or machine2 (resized).jpg

Two long 1/4" hex head machine screws

Then The Machine: One 11/32" nut with washer above and below; two long machine screws through backboard into threaded holes in rear of machine: one countersunk screw at exit.

The Machine bottom motor (resized).JPG
The Machine entrance (resized).JPG
The Machine entrance and motor (resized).JPG
The Machine exit (resized).JPG
The Machine exit close up (resized).JPG
The Machine exit plastiform (resized).JPG
The Machine front exit (resized).JPG
The Machine left side (resized).JPG
The Machine rear (resized).JPG
The Machine right side (resized).JPG
The Machine underneath (resized).JPG
The machine mounted (resized).JPG

#14 1 year ago

The -23 plastic in the top left corner: two 5/16" nuts.
Popper weldment (volcano): four 1/4" hex head screws, 3 wood, 1 machine.
Bronto frame2 (resized).jpg

Left building bracket: two long 1/4" hex head wood screws.
Long left side plastic ("YABBA DABBA DOO"): one 5/16" nut, one hex head machine screw by yellow standup.

Left and right diverter slot guides: two hex head screws each.

Backboard plastics "Slate Co" and bronto body. They mount/unmount as a pair, as they share the two screws at the bottom with black spacers.
Upper field2 (resized).jpg

Yellow plastic -22: 5/16" nut top and middle over targets; upper left is an open stud.
ROCK drops and posts2 (resized).jpg

Right rail plastic -7: one 5/16" nut at top, two 1/4" hex heads over shell standups.
Right Buildings etc2 (resized).jpg

... ...

#15 1 year ago

Lamp board behind the machine. Reflow solder, new lamps with red tinting. Reinstall.

Diverter assembly: 3 long screws. 2 screws for solenoid bracket.

Backboard Dirverter (resized).JPG
Backboard Lights and Flashlamp (resized).JPG

Left and right rebound brackets: 2 screws each; add lock washers as these screws can vibrate loose. NOTE: shorter screws on right unit.

Top Lanes and Gates (resized).JPG
Upper Center Lane (resized).JPG

Left corner brace: 3 screws with lock washers.
Upper right corner anti ball trap: 2 hex head wood screws into top of rail.
Right corner bracket: 3 screws with lock washers.

Upr Left Corner Metal Ball Guides (resized).JPG
Right rebound gate2 (resized).jpg

The outer ball guide: five 1/4" hex head wood screws; threaded stud on left side goes into hole through field, but does not have a nut. Threaded post on right side goes through and has an 11/32 nut with washer. Two small wood screws through guide into right side rail horizontally.

This guide goes all the way around the field.
Mid left and up2 (resized).jpg

More to come...

#16 1 year ago

Shooter lane left rail metal rectangle: two small screws through side along top edge; one hex head screw toward top.

Shooter Lane Ramp and Left Side2 (resized).jpg

#17 1 year ago

Bracket behind upper flipper: 2 hex screws
Riser behind right standups: add flat and lock washers at bottom.
White post screw with stud next to right Time and Search inserts.
Both outlane star posts: 11/32 nut underfield! If you try to force these loose w/o removing the nuts first you will shear them off.
Lamp and flasher behind right standups (in circles)
All 6 black post sleeves...and the one yellow
Ball guide just above the upper right flipper.
If you are replacing the white oblong standups, now's the time.

Shooter Lane Ramp and Left Side3 (resized).jpg

#18 1 year ago

Pull all 5 black post sleeves and one yellow on the left post of the right ramp.
Underneath, remove the 6 3/8" nuts securing the above posts. The flat washers may be imbedded into the bottom of the field, I just left them there

0001a Lower midfield2 (resized).jpg

#19 1 year ago

In the "B-E-D" drop area:
Pull all the rubber rings.
Pull the 2 plastic faceted double-ring posts.
Pull the metal double-ring post behind the drops. This have a nut and washer underfield.
Pull the flasher bracket behind the "B-E-D" drops.
Pull the two flashlamps and beep-test them.
Pull the remaining metal double-ring posts: one at each end of "R-O-C-K" bank; middle two positions on the right of the right pop bumper. All of the metal double-ring posts have a nut and washer underfield. They are also very tightly installed. I chuck my cordless drill to their top and unscrew the machine threads from the wood.
3 Bank Left (resized).JPGBED drops (resized).JPGBehind left BED drops (resized).JPGLeft white standups (resized).JPGPop Bumpers and Posts (resized).JPGROCK drops and posts (resized).JPGRight SUs posts and rings (resized).JPGRight pop posts and rings (resized).JPG

Center Lane Gate (resized).JPG
#20 1 year ago

Great stuff! Thanks for posting.

#21 1 year ago

Pull all the lamp boards:

Lamp Boards Removed (resized).JPG

Lamp Boards (resized).JPG

While you have them out, clean the underside of all the inserts.

Clean Inserts (resized).JPG

Service the lamp boards by flowing and adding a small bit of solder to the lamp boards connector pins, and to all the crescent solder pads. Keep the board flat during this service or the solder will pool. You want it to be uniform. Your goal is to eliminate the dark divots in the solder without adding so much solder you can't reinstall the socket.
Service the Lamp Boards (resized).JPG

Remove both drop target assemblies. For this I mark and unsolder the reset coil wires and remove them completely. Perform any service these units need, like cleaning off old lube that has turned bad.

4 bank board side (resized).JPG4 Bank Circuit Board Side (resized).JPG4 bank Solenoid Side (resized).JPG4 Bank Drops (resized).JPGDrop Target Removal from Bank (resized).JPG

Here's a tip: Steel washers are used as skids for the plastic target to slide up and down on. The washers will have a rounded side and an unrounded side. Always place the rounded side against the moving part (the plastic target body). They will slide much more freely and likely will need no lubrication at all. You can easily tell which washer side is which by rubbing your fingertip over them. It will be obvious.

4 Bank disassembled (resized).JPG
#22 1 year ago

If you have removed all the nuts from any post that has them (remove the nuts from the ball guide studs too while the field is vertical), you can go ahead and pull the plastic faceted posts. This will give enough clearance to chuck the top of the metal posts in your cordless and reverse them out. Also the little bracket behind the "D" drop target.

3 Bank Left (resized).JPG

Pull the 9 white cylinder posts scattered about.

Behind left BED drops2 (resized).jpgBronto face2 (resized).jpgCenter Lane Gate2 (resized).jpgLeft rebound gate and upper left corner2 (resized).jpgShooter Lane Ramp and Left Side2 (resized).jpg

#23 1 year ago

Then the upper center lane components:
Center Lane Gate (resized).JPG
Center Lane (resized).JPG
Left rebound gate and upper left corner (resized).JPG
Top Center Lane Guides and Posts (resized).JPG

Then the risers on the left side of the field. The taller one aligned with the switch cutout for the U turn; the shorter one behind the white oblong.

Left Lanes and Bowling Pin Weldment2 (resized).jpg

Now, ALL hex head screws securing all the metal ball guides. Includes the bowling pins and the two long screws in the U turn plastic teardrop. You may need to remove a screw securing a cable clip to gain access to the stud nut for the upper left pop bumper guide.
Pull the mini-post by the upper right pop bumper.

If you're going to rebuild the pops, remove the components now.

Pop Bumpers and Wiring Underfield (resized).JPG
Pop Bumper Switches and nearby Inserts (resized).JPG
Pop Bumper Switches and Inserts (resized).JPG
Pop Bumper (resized).JPG
Pops and Flasher (resized).JPG
Pops and etc (resized).JPG
Pops half way (resized).JPG

#24 1 year ago

Pop bodies, skirts and sockets.
Wire behind left white oblong, bulbs and flasher.

Flipper inlanes: Long shank screws with collars at the top of the lane guide; Long panhead screw in the hole further from the flipper bat; the long screw closest to the flipper bat was removed to get the apron off.
Left Flip Lanes (resized).JPG
Right Flip Lanes (2) (resized).JPG

Outhole metal brackets:
001a Apron outhole (resized).JPG
Outhole Metal Guides (resized).JPG
Outhole Plates and Risers (resized).JPG
outhole metal guides (2) (resized).JPG

#25 1 year ago

Apron risers: add washers underneath to prevent further sinkage:
001b Apron Riser gets Washer (resized).JPG
001c Riser gets washer (2) (resized).JPG

Shooter side guide with opening for trough:
Metal shooter guide (resized).JPG

Upper metal post above in/out lanes: 11/16 nut underfield;
Left Sling posts and rings (resized).JPG

Loosen all switches with tripwires and pull below the playfield surface; pull all standups below playfield surface; if replacing any, do it now.

Right Standups (resized).JPG
Left Standups (resized).JPG

Slingshot switches and solenoids:
Left Slingshot and Switches (resized).JPG
Rt Slingshot and switches (resized).JPG

Middle White Oblongs (resized).JPG
#26 1 year ago

The flipper bushings have nuts on the backside of the flipper base plate so I pull the whole assembly out and service it.
Then the trough assembly.
Shooter solenoid and switch.
Playfield hangers.

There you have it folks. I missed some pics and details, but hopefully these posts will help someone get past a point where they have gotten stuck.

Closing with a few pics that might have gotten overlooked.

0001a Lower midfield (resized).JPG
Upper field (resized).JPG
Left Rollovers (resized).JPG
Left Uturn VUK plates (resized).JPG
Right inlane outlane Switches (resized).JPG

If you rode all the way with me, THANKS!

1 week later
#27 1 year ago

Aww. What about the putting back together part?
Thanks so very much for doing this thread. About to tackle this myself.

#28 1 year ago

damn shame no one has made a set of plastics for this game yet. wtf???

1 month later
#29 1 year ago
Quoted from ccbiggsoo7:

damn shame no one has made a set of plastics for this game yet. wtf???

Pinball centre carrys a set.


#30 1 year ago

I mean real plastics, those things ain't worth putting on your game.

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