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(Topic ID: 127377)

Flight 2000 power supply/rectifier hard wired to transformer? Help?

By MalikyeMoon

8 years ago


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#1 8 years ago
OP
 
MPM

MalikyeMoon

Pinside+ Frequent

9y 48,550 197 1

hello Friends,
I have a Flight2000 i picked up semi non working that had been in a family home for 25yrs, very clean pf, bg, plastics, underside, etc. really worth restoring!

It was blowing the fuse onthe rectifier/ps (the main power fuse after the transformer) whenever the molex bundle that goes to the pf was in. I assumed it was shoddy wiring to a replacement coil etc.

Cant locate anything obvious. i purchased a Rottwndog replqcement board. This is where my dilemna started.

The existing board has all wires from the transformer soldered directly into its back trace points. ive never seen this on any pin. the new board only has the 3 molex connectors. i am hoping someone can confirm if this wiring was a hack, and likely the reason for blowing. the back of the old board is in ba shape now, likely due to heat.

This cant be right is it? pics of old and finally new below:
image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg

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#2 8 years ago
 
EMS

emsrph

Pinside member

12y 75,300 1,352 1

Soldering to the back of the board is the normal way this is hooked up. I believe the wires need to be moved to the new board.

The fuse issue will need to be looked at separately.

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#3 8 years ago
 
AMS

barakandl

nvram.weebly.com

12y 132K 10,417

That is normal. The rectifier board is hard soldered to the transformer.

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#4 8 years ago
 
KID

pinkid

Pinside member

10y 48,650 1,479

Label all wires and or swap one at a time to the new board. Take pics before if needed.

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#5 8 years ago
OP
 
MPM

MalikyeMoon

Pinside+ Frequent

9y 48,550 197 1

yikes all my previous replacement boards, even from that year were molex only. Thanks for clarifying!

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#6 8 years ago
 
CLG

garman411

Pinside member

US Grass Lake Charter Township, MI

11y 50,550 352 8 13

I just replaced one on meteor. I removed the transformer from the cabinet and soldered the wires on the board using my work bench. It was a breeze.

Chris

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#7 8 years ago
 
MAG

maglar

Pinside member

14y 56,900 201 18

Yep, that is the way all classic Sterns and Bally rectifiers where wired untill Bally switch to the -54 rectifier in 1980 with Xenon.

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#8 8 years ago
 
UUG

minnesota13

Pinside+ Frequent

12y 61,650 1,474

Looks like your varistor (VR1) the red device above fuse F6 on your original board appears twisted with the leads shorted which will cause F6 to blow. VR1 is designed to blow shorted, blowing fuse F6 to prevent high voltages from entering the machine.

If you un-twist VR1 F6 should no longer blow on your original board.

You should re-pin the large J3 connector as there are obvious burn marks on the connector.

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#9 8 years ago
OP
 
MPM

MalikyeMoon

Pinside+ Frequent

9y 48,550 197 1

Thanks everyone good info. might have been the angle of the photo - i checkedghe varistor,and while bent a tad twisted, no contact was made. i did straighten it however, put in another 3Aslo blo in F6, and instant blow again. the varistor may have a cracked solder joint from the feel. would that also cause F6 to blow? the original board has so much heat browning onthe. front, and so much separation on the back im just going to replace it. i assume i do not need that tiny jumper wiref rom ptto. pt on the original since that design flaw was probably resolved with the Rottendog imrpovements - can anyone verify?

Thanks everyone! just got done rebuilding every drop target assembly on flash gordon and im beat!

Mike

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#10 8 years ago
OP
 
MPM

MalikyeMoon

Pinside+ Frequent

9y 48,550 197 1

ps - i loathe typing on ipads (i spent all that time on real kb skills!)

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#11 8 years ago
 
BIL

dothedoo

Pinside member

12y 106K 7,265

OP
Quoted from MalikyeMoon:

i checkedghe varistor,and while bent a tad twisted, no contact was made. i did straighten it however, put in another 3Aslo blo in F6, and instant blow again. the varistor may have a cracked solder joint from the feel. would that also cause F6 to blow?

OP
Quoted from MalikyeMoon:

It was blowing the fuse onthe rectifier/ps (the main power fuse after the transformer) whenever the molex bundle that goes to the pf was in.

The varistor is not causing the fuse to blow or it would happen even with the playfield unplugged. Blowing the main fuse is unusual and I'm wondering if the rectifier is overfused. Are all fuses of the correct value according to the sticker on the mounting plate? F1, F4 and F5 especially since those circuits are used under the playfield.

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#12 8 years ago
 
UUG

minnesota13

Pinside+ Frequent

12y 61,650 1,474

I missed that line re: the fuse only blows when J1 and J3 are attached. There is a possibility that when you install the new board that the problem will remain.

Given your fuse values are correct it will be best to sort out the problem using the original rectifier board.

First closely examine the large J3 connector at the burned locations. How do the rectifier pins look at this same pin locations? I would replace the burned connector pins if they are discolored or appear burned.

With J1 and J3 removed check the rectifier board test points for proper voltages.

Remove all the fuses except for F6. Install fuses one at a time until you determine which circuit is causing F6 to blow. Cycle machine off and on for each fuse position tested.

If F1, F4 or F5 is the cause, then remove connector J1 which only feeds only the playfield, solenoids, feature lamps and GI.

If the F6 blows with J1 removed the problem is not the playfield but is in the back box.

If F2 or F3 is the cause of F6 blowing, then disconnect J1 on the Solenoid Driver Board.

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