Hi. Have a flight 2000. Had it for 6months or so..not working and started to look under the playfield. When turned the GU lights work and a buzz from.the speaker.The rectifier looks like a hack job. When i did turn it on.. it blows F4 7amp slo blow 43vdc. So i unplugged everything from the back box (solenoid ,light board and mpu board. Ive looked again online manual and looks like the header pins are not in..lower middle and left of the power broad. And wire has been soldered on to...well.. a big heat sink of sorts,below that is the speaker off centred..also looks like the wires have been cut and plugged in the bottom...and has two transformers .this is my first pinball... and tbh..am keeping it forever ... need help guys

Here's a video

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Thanks for the quick reply guys,

Thats the way to go, I have to be honest, am a novice on these as this is my first pinball, so if i ask dumb questions forgive me

Yep..thats the way I want to go , to bring the wiring back to its original state.(need help with this guys)

ive order the crimping tool , should be arriving Saturday, and ordering a new power board too.(MAY TAKE 2 WEEKS FROM USA, AM BASED IN LONDON UK)Rotten Dog, and some other bits and pieces. I think your right Chas10e that it was repaired before they were available

Ok, am planning to plug in a new rectifier board but my old one only has one molex plug(right bottom), plugged in...the middle and left molex are a bunch of wires on the ground.

Does anyone have pictures of the molex plugs and there colours on the rectifier board, or the harness colours leading up to he transformer and power board.

Ive another question..looks like both transformers are connected...I live in the UK,...so would there be an extra transformer for a uk standard plug?.

Change of topic just finished two mame machines , i had the cabs(gutted from previous owners for parts) i found online years ago..and were sitting around, so i made a Street fighter 2 cab and Outrun turbo, kids love them.

also will be working on a Operation wolf , bits were imported from Italy , (just the marquee , coin door, Gun , base and metal top base with instructions.

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thanks CanadianPinpall but 90 % percent of the harness is great, I would think it would be over kill
to replace the whole harness, just want to repin the power lines to the power board and get the right molex connectors,

Would you have the colours for the power rectifier board?.or info on two transformers on a uk model?...

thanks in advance guys!

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thanks Quench!

heres a photo of which i have on my phone.. i can check again tonight and get a better photo/video. looks like it wiring to the harness with black tape near the
coin mech?....

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Your the man Quench !

Just got home..heres a better video.

P.s am soo excited to be on the road to get this working

Thanks oldshoolbob and Quench!

I know this is going to sound dumb..just trying to get my head around it before the new board comes..

On the schematic above ..do the wire colours run in order..for j1 j2 j3..so they match each molex connector..? ie j2 pin 1 y/b - pin 2 G

Also J1 pin 3 say feature lamp bus.. is that missing a colour code?

Thanks dudes

Thank you so much guys!
Your all legends ..legends I tell you! !

Ill be pulling out the board and transformers this weekend...that and trying to finish my vw 68 bug resto too...busy weekend guys.. ill keep you all updated.. hopefully this post help anyone in the future whos in the same boat

What a mess....

Ive labelled up the wires and ill double check with the schematic just in case they were wired up wrong by the previous owenr and await the new power board...why that other transformer was in there i don't know...

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Nice beetle bob! What year is it? 68 69?

Ill check on the transformer jumper?..but how do i check.. just look at the back of it..?

Past bits.. built my daily ride to work honda cg 125 café

The beetle has had
New brake lines
Master cylinder
Fuel line
Discs
Drums
Pads
Rubbers
Tail pipes
Interior
Carpets
Torsion bar
Shocks
Alll welding done sills channels etc
Erm..front axle
Used to work in the car trade so bits were mega cheap... and the car i picked up in 2003 and been stored for yrs..stop start project..but now it all done... just the paint left to do...will be in gt3 rs grey...like the wheel alloy colour ..cant wait

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Bob.. is this the jumper..3 to 5?

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Evening guys..ok..here we go...

Has numbers marked as

Top 17,18,8,10,12,13

Bottom 1,3,5,7,9,11

Other side 14,15,16,2,6

On the instructions the it has two part numbers on the schematic ...or is it referring to the same part..i dont know...thanks in advance guys! You rock!

Pics below

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Thanks guys!

Am learning loads here lol,

ill sort that out when i get the power board

Dumb question, if its was on 220v prior as it was...and has been working since the 80s(and when i powered it on with GI lights were working...since then Uk volts have changed to 240v(just trying to get my head around it)

i did google Uk volts and found this on wiki.

https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C1CHBF_en-GBGB834GB834&ei=hbiQXPqQBfCg1fAPnJCg0AI&q=uk+main+power+in+volts%3F&oq=uk+main+power+in+volts%3F&gs_l=psy-ab.3..33i160.1352631.1352631..1352823...0.0..0.127.127.0j1......0....1..gws-wiz.......0i71.wlubsbNKE6Y

Saying UK is 230V at 50hz

Silly question, but i no nothing of volts , 1a, 3a etc..220v and 240v or their values, are the numbers higher in terms of the higher numbers..?

What would happen if i left it at 220v.?....Would it still be ok?, would a void open and tear into the fabric of space?would i be sucked into another
dimension??!

Sorry...i.....i got carried away there for a sec....

Vodka and typing is a mad mix! , why do the Russians make it so pure!?..*Chic*

Your input is always greatly appreciated.

Thankyou buddy , and yes, ill switch to the 240v , who wants more heat eh?..lol

yup, ill solder the wires as you mentioned on as pictured below..i did label them..but counted 12?...instead of 10? is that right?..

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That's fantastic! !

This is the same feeling I had when i was 5 and saw He-man on tv for the first time! Lol

Thank you guys( salutes you all)

Of course ill keep you posted on my progress..

cheers bob!

any and all photos are always great , you guys have given the the confidence to wire up the board and minimise the doubt it being
wired up wrong.

while am waiting for the board , i seen online how people can test the mpu broad for 6 or 7 flashes using a pc mains (and crocodile clips ) is
it worth me checking the mpu board or just wait till the power broad comes, the mpu has had the battery removed by the looks of it..

cheers dudes!

quick questions guys,

When i have the new board solder in , am i ok to test it by not connecting the J terminals plugs, just to check if any fuses blow..( the same i had originally F4 Coils fuses blowing ) and then plug in the J connectors on the power board and ...then plug in the connectors on the back box one by one to check if anything blows as i go?

thanks

here you go dudes, my mpu , I wrote on the headers M1 M2 etc..and the light broad L1, L2 etc

thanks for the above bob and quench , your the man!

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hi guys, just thinking , when this is all sorted.

Does anyone know the bulb (part numbers) count for the Flight 2000 play filed, back back etc, looking to get some LED..and maybe make a rail for resistors

cant wait

p.s forgot my lamp board ,

yup, ill get to work on it, best stuff to clean it with?.

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Ok got home from work and treated the family to burgers and kebabs..lol

Back down the cellar and ive pulled out the
Mpu board....not tested yet... i might tonight...

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Thanks guys..me and the hundreds to follow are reading this as we speak... yes! you in the t-shirt and jeans with the kids running around and not going to bed so you can finish your pinball! Hahahha

Being as a big kid.. i couldn't wait not to try the board..soooo...

Here's what it did....two flashes .... i had to improvise onto crocodile clips...but made sure nothing was touching.....

Cheers dude, shall i try to re-seat it or buy another.. any ideas where i can purchase one..?

Thanks

afternoon guys , thanks for the above...

about replacing with the nvrams , would i need 2 x nvrams for U8 and U13?.as its best too replace both?..

thanks

Hey guys,yeah...in uk... and soon to leave Europe. Lol

Hopefully he'll have stock soon

Thanks dude. Hit me up when they do. 100 interested dude

Many thanks

Thanks guys.. well its the weekend here in the UK..
Working a 9 to 5 in IT.. have to say i love my job... had the whole saturday to myself.. kids away..and missus at work till 7pm..did abit of work on the beetle.. dry sanding prep work..then maybe with abit of luck get the primer on the chassis for next week...(plan to paint in afew weeks gt3 rs grey)

Quick question... i dream of pinballs machines.. well..to speak of it..arcade machines too....the feeling of walking in an arcade when i was a kid ...must have been stuck with me and never left me... happy days man.. anyone else feel like that... ?

My buddy of mine...love games...but never have the time due to work ..family etc
.were always watching old 80s movies....goonies..lost boys..etc.. (love stranger things btw) and you always see arcades..kids will never know the adrenaline of walking into an arcade.... rant over

Hi guys. I have baking soda 99.9 alcohol de ion water. White vinegar but what I don't have is US products like the Works toilet bowl cleaner only UK products...

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Still waiting for my ram 5010 chips and the corrosion kit to arrive from the usa from big daddy ent. Can't wait to get started .oh and the power board too.

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Good news guys!
Big daddys power boards arrived!

Ill be ok to get the power board soldered up.

But the mpu repair kit had no instructions.

Anyone have a list part for each resistor to go?

Thanks

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Cheers buddy!!

Hi guys.

Does any one have a map on where all these go.. i got the list(thankyou) but am a novice when it comes to resistors . I know some kits come with one... of what goes where and circled numbers parts .. the ebay listing on big daddy is...well its a bit vague??

Hahaha cheers. My little one jumped to the chance to help me.lol

Great. Just looking at the schematic...my board layout is slightly different.. am i guessing that doesn't matter ?
Cheers guys

Hooray!!
Six flashes dudes! Corrosion kit did the job!.
Ill move onto soldering the power board now...

Right.. being chuffed i fixed the board..(very happy indeed!) I was on a roll...so.. instead of ending the afternoon and trucked on and wired the back of the rectifier board.

Ill have to repin the connectors....no wait.. they had no connectors.. they were soldered on..lol..

No really going to enjoy that...and on the transformer i relocated the uk spec . Yellow jumper from 12 to 7. Cheers guys... ill keep you updated...

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Like to shake the mans hand who did this lol....

(Deep breath) one pin at a time....

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Hi guys.

Ok went to bed and got up early and started to sort the J1 J2 and J3 connectors.

J2 Was straight forward as it wasn't tampered with.

J3 - I've managed to label all the wires except 2.

J3-19 red/yellow - ( i thought i had a red and orange..but now looking at it outside from the cellar ..would it be red/yellow(pic3).?

J3-13 white /yellow. I don't have this wire showing in my harness(any ideas??) Pic 2

J1
Abit lost on this connector..

All i can see is a white /2 x blues /red /and looks like a blue and white

Pic 4 - J1 pin 3 says spare.. but on the old rectifier board theres one of the Blue wires connected. Also on Pic 5 theres a brown wire jumper from J1 to J3.

As always ..any input i would be very grateful dudes.

P.s can't wait to fire this up

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Hi love F2k

Cheers dude! Very much appreciate friend!

The main transformers ok(i think..i say this because when i had the machine..when turned on.. only the GI lights and playfield lights would turn on.(see pic 1) and the mpu light would stay on..or flash twice ..then no flashes at all...)so am guessing the main trans is ok

The second transformer block and tracing back the wires... red wire splices into a white wire. And the brown spices into a yellow wire.

Heres a vid of the second transformer dude

Cheers dude!

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Forgot to mention ....

The second transformer brown wire(ground i think) is connected to a fuse fixed to the wood work for the rectifier board. The fuse is blown and clearly not connected/working so I'm guessing transformer 2 did nothing at all.

Sorry.. forgive me..

Still trying to get used to pinball terminology can you confirm what a knocker is. Thanks guys...

Sdb is solenoid driver board?

So really.. once thous are re pinned... am pretty much good to fire it up..!

Thanks guys! Right J2 only . Got it..and multi meter checks.. kool.

That the money shot right there! J1

I can label all my wires now but ive two blues.. on the photo. My old wires are soldered together..see photo

Is it just a case of tracing these back up the loom to see which ones which?

Your both legends i tell you legends!!

Hahahh yeah i didnt have a drinks cabinet at the time lol

Yeah. Am guessing theres more work to be done.. just hope its not loads more lol

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Ok guys... i couldn't message on the board ..it said the topics on fire and i couldn't post a message?

Right..i double checked the connectors and only plugged in J2

The reads are as follows..

Tp1 6.0
Tp2 156 (is this low due to nothing being connect to draw power?)
Tp3 11.3
Tp4 6.6 Ac
Tp5 44.9
Tp6 ground

I plugged in J1 and J3... anddddd.........

Just lights are before... Playfield and back box...

So i checked for lights on the mpu but nothing...but no blown fuses now either....

So i looked at the connectors. ..as the mpu sits inside the backbox... the top right connectors weren't tight fit.. nor were the connectors botton left.. on closer inspection... i pulled a pin out to check.. and it crumbled in my hand...

So i shud have done this already but wanted to see if it fired up.. will be re pinning the mpu connectors..

But i dont know the name or spec of the chrimps for the mpu..any ideas? Thanks guys

Its 230 -240 at the wall.
Quench gave me the low down earlier in the thread #10 as this Is all new to me.

On the transformer i jumped 12 yellow wire on to 7

Also i only checked the volts when J2 plugged in only... but i guess that doesn't matter.

Maybe that's why the additional transformer was used..??

Ill check my main transformer wiring again to be sure..cheers dudes

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How do I try this i.e. where do I put my multimeter on what settings DC? Then i can rule out the transformer. can try this while I order some chrimps. In uk they have the metric system. Would i be safe to say there 2.54mm?

So ill re pin the mpu. And any other board looking suspect.

We mentioned TP4 and how to check..is TP1 low too?
Tp1 6.0
Tp2 156
Tp3 11.3
Tp4 6.6 Ac
Tp5 44.9
Tp6 ground

I know the rectifer board has lager chrimps.. i get my bits from RS components.

https://uk.rs-online.com.
But want to make sure there the rights ones. Any ideas on the site?(ordered the wrong size once to many times lol

Thanks

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A million thankyous

I've order the necessary crimps. 200 for £5 but will land next week before i can get fixed. Bank holiday easter post.

Between then ill post my findings.
Cheers dude!

Hello guys,

Right.. some interesting developments regarding the mpu 200

I thought id test the mpu using my pc while the mpu is screwed into the back box only to find no flashes or a solid light. Oh great! .... i must of fried something!lol... so i took the board out and bench tested it....now gave back six flashes.....hmmmm...

So i looked back to what was connect to the mpu while in the back box... and it was just the sound board (i think) and the lower broad would be the speech board?

So i disconnected the sound cables..and back to six flashes.

Correct me if this is wrong... but when i would have re pinn the mpu and then have it all connected again... the sound cables would have thrown a spanner of the works..well.. for confusing the mpu not to boot?

Am i guessing i can leave the sound broad disconnected for the time being while we get the machine up and running?

Ive taken some photos of the SB its quite clean.... maybe change out the resistors? Or test first?(no idea how to test it)

Cheers fellas.

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Excellent... ill give that a try.

At the moment am landing down paving in the garden... missus wants a bbq area..lol

Priorities eh!

Thanks again and ill post my findings when i get a chance

Brilliant. They look like the bizz.!

Hi guys..
Sorry ive been so long in my post but been making a driveway for a carport,mounds of earth to be removed but half way done.
Had the crimps sitting in a box for a while, and didnt look forward to re pinning the mpu... but tonight... and after sinking afew beers...i repinned the mpu... fired it up after checking the volts..and a solid red light...

Bollocks!

Was really losing faith here... the sound broad was disconnected previously as mentioned in my last post... just wanted to see if it worked..and sort the sound out after...

Turned it on..off.. on... checked the j plug..leads... and just when i was going to give up... and re sat the header plugs on the mpu...switched it on...

And.....

It worked!!! Now i know you have to place all three balls at the top for attracted mode?? And it worked!!..

I stood for a moment and just stared at the lights and thought..jesus... i got it to work??! (I really given myself 50/50on the project.)

I was so tried to plug the sound board back in and left it for 2moro and start with fresh eyes.

I did play a game but i cudnt...didn't know how to credit up the game... i tried on the coin door.. by clicking the mircoswitches but ended up just picked the ball up and play.....

I was shocked still... i actually played my first game..well kinda..with one ball..the other two locked by the kicker...i tried all the bumpers..and drop targets..all worked... they only any that didnt were a few bulbs.. (led on these i think..any links..ideas?) Also the displays were playing up.. maybe a few resistors?

But am over the moon its moving in the right direction.. very happy!

I turned it off and on again afew times to see if it was a fluke.... it worked everytime... 10 times in a row...

So.... need help on the credit up on these..and led ideas ...oh..and displays fixes

Thanks guys.. you have really really helped... big thankyou to anyone who's replied . And anyone who see theses posts in years to come

Ok my excitement was cut short I thought I'd give it a go this morning it was all working fine had a couple of games but I had to take the ball out at the bottom as the kicker is not working...
so about needs to be fixed but then an hour later

I tried turning it back on he gives me 7 flashes but the balls won't kick it at the top and the game wont boot up any ideas

Hi guys.. I've check the fuses on the main board.. all ok..and one under the play field.. that's ok too..(have i missed any?)

Placed the balls at the bottom as next to the kicker.. turned it on.. and the same...

I still have 7 flashes and the voltages are good... any ideas?

Score is blank.. sometimes it shows zero... am giving the game a 1min.. to 3min.. when it was working.. the top solenoids would fire and kick the balls around the top... it would do that several times.. now it just kicks once... ive re seated the mpu and pins... all solid and connected.. and 7 flashes...

Switch matrix.. which connector would that be.. ill check.. sorry forgive me.. its been a learning process

Amazing... great news
It was a loose pin on the mpu board..
Wasn't fully pushed in. i re crimped it and sat much better and bingo..it went into ball mode...

Tried it afew times and worked!

It was the connector in the bottom left of the mpu.. but yes Robotworkshop for fault finding. Thankyou

Ok...now thats done.. the top bumper fires on the ball with a direct it.. but a slight touch of the ball..it doesn't fire...and peeps have links for bumper rebuilds

The ball kicker doesn't work...doesn't fire the ball in the slingshot puller.... any help...?

And the lcd do displa and work but two flicker... top left ...and bottom right.... the other 3 or perfect...

Honestly i can't believe its working!

Thankyou guys..will post more soon

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Here's the pinball in action..
Playing with one hand.

Ok. Quick post. I swapped over the displays.. to the ones flickering.. same issue in displays

On the kicker ball.. i straighten up the shaft...for some reason was off.. and lubed up the coil shaft with lithium grease and bingo.. kicks the ball out now..

But some times kicks out two balls...??

I fixed and checked the ribbon cables as two weren't working..but still no sound..

Cheers dudes.

Cleaned up the plunger coil. And its back to normal

Cleaned up the play field and added some wax to the play field.

I put the back glass and play field glass on today.. and kids had a blast today too.

I swapped out the displays and the ones that didnt work.. when switched.. had the same issue.. so yup..ill re solder thous..

The ribbons on the sound board i checked..two were broken..did a multi meter check and placed it back in F2k

But boot sometimes..and then doesn't boot other times... also.. the sound it garbled...faint sounds.. when the games boots... you can hear a sound..but indistinct.... the volume knob works too..under the playfield...

The speech hasn't made a sound at all.....

Cheers dudes..sorry if i repeated anything..
Been diggin out a new drive... loads of earth to remove. ..and now am drinking the the back pain away...lol
Pic 1 plunger mech
Pic 2 plunger coil cleaned

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Oh**
Am.ive ordered some new rubbers
The old ones are shot

Defo! That drive.. lots to remove... 3 or4 tons..by hand..

In the uk for a (skip) removal truck cost hundreds..even for a small skip..
My road it a single narrow road.. over 130 years..back in the days of horse and cart.. so...
I can't order and removal truck for the soil...hence...

By hand...
But am.selling top soil 50p a bag...
Saves a fortune but very hard work

My games doesn't reset at all during a game...

Am going to order a sound sb 300 kit...

Am not sure how to approach the speech board .

Also.. what settings do you have your f2k too in terms.of credits..balls..score.etc

Cheers

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Nice one guys!

On the coin door ive two buttons, clear memory
And test.

I guess clear memory.. well..clears memory?(haven't pressed this)

Ive pressed the test button and all displayed showned
111111111 but then its crashes F2k

Tried is again.. and then same..crashes after it displays 111111111

On the displays.. ... i tested the points ie.. 3000 points..(see pic)

But on pressed on the playfield it doesn't register 3000 points..just in the hundreds...is that normal.. or is it when it on multiplier?

I've now downloaded and printed a manual . Will read though this.

Am sure my mpu is set to the setting inside the the back box..(has a default screen inside)

What level should f2k be in terms of pitch and legs?
I thinks mines abit flat... ive seen a few videos and i looks to play faster..(am sure the dead rubbers aren't helping either)

Been looking on online for leds...what bulbs does f2k take? Stock and led?need to reduce the heat

The leds need a resistors ive been told..the would take ages to solder on each light bulb? Any quicker..easier methods?

Want to reduce the heat too. The back glass has seen better days..but ill leave it original. What's the best way to maintain what i have on the back glass as its flaky? Some sort a clear sealer?

Thank you guys... your all legends!

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Ill check the display for cracked solder points to when i get a chance too

Makes perfect sense.. i haven't had time to look at the mirco switches but i think ones bent too back .. but ill update you guys on my finding...

My friend txt me today and said what you up too.. i said selling bags of soil.. he said..whattt? People actually buy bags of soil? I laughed lol

Sold 120 bags today.. not at great cost.. but get my drive car ports done for free.. instead of dropping 2.5k lol...
My missus says ive alot of patience.. I guess when I work on something and before I start losing my Focus I tend to walk away and come back the next day... solves alot of problems..and always find a solution ..and it always works out i find... ohh and shit loads of beer too
Thanks guys.. this threads been quite the journey. Hope it helps anyone else in years to come

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Come to the uk buddy!

My local pub.. or (boozer) is a well know pub called Pardos. Of which they made the links for and titanic and the anchor too. They have pictures inside the pub at all different stages of the construction.

Its from an old mining town in the black country ..(very old town of which they mined coal) we have a museum called the black country museum of which theres old streets...pubs.. metal iron mongers etc.. . kept just like a time machine..frozen in time.

https://www.bclm.co.uk

Theres lots of ales and beers here.. most are in the countryside... and i try to drink them all haha

Just some photos of the light board and displays.
Yup..your right..the pins and display pins have seen better days.. ive pulled everything out.. and will try to re solder the pins when i get a chance and post my findings...

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Hi dudes!

Ok ill go straight to it... re soldered all the points on the displays
..but same thing.. mmm
2 work fine... bottom right..and bottom centre ..credit display....

The other three are score points... and bottom left is garbled...

Ive order some parts.... i saw on YouTube a guy called geo... flight 2000 diplay flickering ...same issue ..took a punt and ordered the same chips (see pic) ordered 5(i checked my cables and swapped displays too)

Also the seats for the chips(ensuring if the need swapping out again)

The sound board...ive ordered the caps for sb 300 .. ill on ebay... the ones looked toasted and wanted to bullet proof the sound card...

Ordered some...
New balls x 3
New rubber kit
New chips for the displays x 5
New display chip seats for display x 20
New led 1 x 200 warm white
470 ohm resistors
New sb 300. Chip x 2

Just in the last hour.. i booted up the Fk2 and checked the sound again... disconnected the cable ribbons from the machine.. etc... then i found this on pinside.. a chip that may have gone faulty... says to remove the chip(see pic) and see if it boots... and for the first time..(with the sound board connected and plugged in.. it booted and passed 7 flashes.
..so ive ordered another chip...(see pic)

Ok..that's me done for the night.. planning to add leds when they arrive.. and work around the connectors and how toos

Ok beer time lol

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I did dude,
The fault carried over to the next display ruling out the connectors... hopefully the chips will fix the issue..

I tried to pick up flicker led kits from the USA but couldn't get any shipping.. but found a place in the Netherlands..see pic

Also some leds.. am not sure how long these will last but found some on amazon(amazon great return policy if there crap) but should be ok

The price was very good so ordered 200 pcs (see pic)
Does anyone know how many bulbs Flight 2000 takes?

I think... if the displays chips work..
Chips and caps for the sb300
And the led adaptors and leds(easy plug and play)

Just leaves the speech board...and well.. thats it...

What you think guys...

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Ahh crapp!!

Amazon has already dispatched... the description says...

100Pcs 6V 6.3V T4W H6W T11 BA9S 5SMD 5050 LED Auto Car LED Side Wedge Light Bulb

Note:

The colors deviation might differ due to different monitor settings.

We provide you with the best product and service, if you have any problem, please let us know, and we will solve the problem ASAP.

Thank you so much.

Ive sent a question to the seller if . Do these run od AC and DC current? Do you have a data sheet or specifaction to the leds?

thanks buddy.!
Good old amazon returns if there wrong

Nice one cheers dudes!
Soldered on the caps on the sound board last night...
Just waiting on the chip MC6840 to fit

Also the display chips

Hi guys.
Am still digging away that drive. Lol
But removed lots...and it keeps selling..lol

Ok quick update..
The display chips arrived today.. and as always.. i couldn't wait to install them....so i soldered on the seat.. and them inserted the chip on the display...and..?.....same issue.. flickering display...

So i swapped the displays..and now have the same issue on a (working display)..i checked the connectors..and there all.seated fine.. pins have been soldered before...

Forgive me if am wrong but i think and the issue cud be simpler.. .. like the mpu...(i thinking maybe... maybe a new altek board.. and maybe.... (even thou ive brought a led flicker kit on the way a light board too.

I cant raise the funds yet.. lots of work outside etc ...but am may go that route

But now... strangely the test now works... it circles through the displays...

Strange things

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Great stuff! Ill check that out

The solenoid still has the original caps...(two i think) would it be an idea to replace them?

Not sure of the values.

Also. When playing F2.. if two balls are locked....and start a new game.. the game spits out 1 ball as it should... but when a lose that ball... (now i would be on my second ball) the game doesn't spit out the ball i lost(ball one) ..any ideas....?

Thanks as always

Ill check the headers on the solenoid as none of that board as been repinned at all..

which headers go to which part of the game...ie displays..playfield..cheers1

hi guys, right, been some issues since ive lasted posted.

My mpu ..(since it was fixed, ) when turned on,...it would take 3 on offs to get it to boot once...(7 flashes)

This got increasing worse...ie 1 in 5 and so on...(turn on..and offs)..

Then it started to lock complete , flickering led..or solid light...

then...i shot gunned it!...!..(didnt have to heart to keep messing with it...

and picked up a alltek mpu! ( ill store the old mpu as stock even swap it out to test , still gives 6 flashes on test bench)

it fixed the led displays in terms of the numbers, (flicker still there but you can see the whole score now)
fixed the ball lock in the BLAST OFF , Apollo 1 and Apollo 2
fixed the game if 2 balls are locked from a previous game ( upper right ) and credit up a new game to uses the last ball
(am not sure if this can be changed on the dip switch ?)

working fine for 2 days. but.............

this morning , i went to have a quick play...and when in game...the ball hits a few bumpers...scores points..all fine...
then the light comes on for (tilt) and the ball drains.
then spits out another ball...and same issue again on 2nd and 3rd ball....

thanks guys...

oh..and that soil nearly all gone...hopefully by the weekend

work#family#soil#pinball#vw resto# lol

is does buddy

Help!! Game now wont boot!!

When powered on,mpu flashes 7 times on the alltek board (during this the top kickers flip as in search mode)
And after 7 flashes the games just turns on a few play field lights.

Ive checked all the pins on the mpu
Sound card and speech are unplugged
Tested all the test points for voltages. All ok

Now won't boot.... losing the battle on this one ...
Help... !!

Ok dudes.

So i shotgun'd the solenoid board too, i thought am keeping it..and wanted a trouble free pinball..(i wish)

Heres a vid of what the pinballs doing

Same issue..

Balls in place.. 7 lights.. all voltages fine on new alltek solenoid board.

Fuses and headers all new..
Turns on..but just lights up play field and gi lights....(help)

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Cheers buddy.

I powered up the game with the coin door detached(see video)

Has the same look as before buddy

I haven't installed the LEDs yet or the new rubbers.
The mpu is a new alltek
The solenoid board is a new alltek
The lamp driver board is original(have the anti flicker adaptor kit too..but not installed yet)

Yes your right.. before when the game did boot it would tilt.. help.. i do not know where the switches are for the tilt play field ..or where to locate them..

Ill check the plump kit when i get a chance ,still a novice on how too remove a cap...and where to locate it?
Sorry the pic is poor.. i screen grabbed it from a video i made. I can upload another when i get a chance
Cheers dudes

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Ok. Yes the mpu dip switches are the same as the original.

How do i test the resistor brown disc on a mutli meter setting?

I've cut one leg of the resistor off.(see photo)

I've discontented the credit display

I've taken a few more photos of the plumb switches

Alltek memory cleared (see photo)

Same issue buddy.. 7 flashes.. solenoid board all green lights..

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Ok too check all the pins that leave to mpu alltek... j connectors? Ok

Too be honest.. i have to reach over the connectors on the far left side of the mpu.. ..knackering work reaching over..lol(maybe beer would help lol). and ill double check each one...ill take my time.. wud it be worth soldering each pin on the the crimp.. to make sure continuity?

I remember it was playing up when one pin on my label mpu3 wasn't connected too.. so ill have a look and check.. and ill post my findings

Hi pal. I had a look on sunday quickly..
Yes not all the mpu crimps were replaced on the top left and bottom left headers the right upper and right lower were changed on mpu.

Here's my crimp tool(see photo)

I did try firing it up.. same issuse.. un hooked the coil door and tried that too. Tried manually pulling down the balls switches and turning it on.. still no joy..

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Ok guys..thanks.. ")

Big love and support from everyone here..

ill meticulously check and pin them again.. and also the lamp driver connectors too..hell..even the solenoid ones too...

Hopefully it'll fix the issue

Ok dudes..
So yesterday and today ive re pinned all the boards.. mpu..solenoid..and lamp... great fit on the new alltek boards and nice firm fit, took hours lol

But no ciger

Same issue.. 7 flashes.. no game start after boot.. tried clearing the memory etc... same...booted a few times...

They only time something did.. was the very first flick of the switch to on.. the led on the solenoid stayed on... Q17..see photo. And the game briefly went to search mode..and clicked twice on the Apollo area..and Q17 lit up....
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Just tried a bag of times and cleared out the memory..

Same issue. I looked up the Q17. Says solenoid top right kicker.. but i hasn't come on again..the led on the solenoid board... ive checked all the solenoid were moving freely prior installing the mpu and solenoid board...says not to leave on if it locks up i think..or it could blow fuses...etc..

Ahh its a long road... its funny how it was working... and now it fails to go into attached mode..

The alltek when fully booted the led should stay on but half dimmed down... this doesn't happen..

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The scores on the credit and match read all zeros. 00000..how do i go into switch testing mode?. when it boots up.. the test button and memory does nothing ... or do you mean you can test on the alltek solenoid board itself?
Cheers dude

Ok ill check j4 pin 11 when am home.. yes well..it only happened once..Q17.. it stayed lit.. but i had my hand on the on/off switch and killed the power..

I checked all the solenoid and no smoke..no burning at all.. there quite clean..the ohms check on the 2 micro switch ..i checked both.... but i don't think i checked the red plastic one thou?..

How do you measure on a multi meter (settings) on the trough switches? (Sorry.. a learning experience this for me lol)

The display I worked on was (if your facing the pinall )bottom left... i placed a socket and a new chip on it.. i pretty sure i was careful when soldering..but i can take photos when am home.. it was working the displays...flickers but displayed the full scores...(well kind of )when it was playing before the errors am experiencing now ..

Thanks dude.. so want this to work... i know ill get to going ..and all down to everyone's help
Really appreciate

Ok will do.. i know display bottom right works just fine...(haven't worked on that one) ...ill try that too tonight

Quick question

Under the play field.. the fuse states 1. 1/4 fuse.(see pic) anyone know the uk amp equivalent ?

I took out the fuse when i was checking the ball through micro switches .. it has continuity.. in order for these fuses to run properly.. is there a gas inside the fuse? Like. Bulb?...The reason why i ask is both ends rotate slightly around the glass fuse.. ?..trying to find a uk supplier.. may be that has been the issue...?..

Yup..checked the other day... had continuity ..not the best shape though...
1-1/4 amp fuse i dont know what amp it need to be..and the uk equivalent
..

Sorry buddy.. i mean the ampage for the play field fuse

Uk transformer is 240v

Ground strap check
Proper line cord with earth check

I had a pack of these fuses...says 7a 250v. I purchased them when i had the old rectifier in . (I haven't tried these yet due to uncertainty of the fuse rating)

I can't get into coin door test mode to try to clear them memory due to it crashing after 7 flashes.. is there a way to do this while its booting ?.
Thanks guys

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Cheers dude. Ran out of time today to try anything. Had a kids birthday party to attend with the family . Am off for 4 days on the weekend and ill be able to finish the drive during the day..lol..and fix the pinball during the night hahhah

Roll on the weekend..fri..sat sun mon(bank hols)

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Ah ok
Ill look for a smaller amp fuse 1.25
I did lift up the play field when checking some of the non working bulbs.. and some just need to slight rotation and started to work again.
J4 has always been connected to the lamp board and the lamp board hasn't been touched dude

If something is shorting .. what would id be looking for.. break in earth from solder to the lights?... or how to test the sockets?...

Most of the lights were working.. when working on the ones that weren't. .. it was a simple case of swapping the bulb out without much movement to the socket...if a socket has moved (cold solder) could this stop the pinball booting up??... theres a few things ill look this weekend..

My best time is when the kids are in bed and ill work on it in the evenings..

And ill check the gaps on the coin door too..(it has to be something simple)

The tilt switch... are they they the plumb and coin door mechanisms? It was tilting before it stopped booting..like 10 games...then failed to boot altogether

Some one said to cut the caps(no idea what they look like and how many,location as its for home use**i did cut one leg on the plumb cap ) as the game was tilting before it stopped working..

Ill take lots of photos and post my findings...

My led bulbs came today too and the anti flicker kit..

Leds 200 pieces
Anti flicker kit.
And new rubber kit yet to install

Have to get it working
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Cheers guys!!
I got my work cut out for the weekend then!
Thank you gentleman
Your all Legends ..Legends i tell you!!

Big love in this chat right here

Right..ill take photos and post my findings when i get a chance

Hiya guys!
Sorry I haven't post anything is because literally haven't touched my pinball as summers here...

Congrats on the new home lovef2k!
Hahah that drive finally got done.. sweat and tears i can tell you..took a month of people coming down and collecting it soil!

Had the beetle to work on now too.. need to finish as am riding to work at the mo..and british winters a awful.. as much winters are.. so need is up and running...

Then others jobs like today..missus picked up some welsh dressers and i had a great idea to paint them and they came up a treat! I literally finished them both today.

Works been busy too and started to body build again after a 6 month break. Hour session before work.. so shattered when i get home to work on the pinball.. but.. am going to get it done.. i need to read this thread to find out what i need to do lol..

Hope i get it working again.. gutted its giving me problems but eh..

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