(Topic ID: 238458)

Flight 2000 help!

By Supersunny76

1 year ago

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  • 239 posts
  • 23 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 months ago by chas10e
  • Topic is favorited by 11 Pinsiders


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#44 1 year ago
Quoted from 0geist0:

If you plan on using led bulbs under the inserts you will need an led lamp board. They're around $100

Or you can try the Comet Optix LEDs. Those seem to work fine with the original light board on my machine. Also same for Meteor.

For added effect try some of their fire LEDs behind the backglass for the rocket trails.

#47 1 year ago
Quoted from 0geist0:

Those work for you under the inserts with no strobing? I can see the incandescents strobing on mine.

You may want to get in a few to test but they look great in mine and didn't notice any strobing. They cost more than regular LEDs but not really when you can use the factory board. I color matched the led to the insert.

I just used cheaper regular brightness behind the backglass. At the moment playfield GI are still bulbs but I may change those

#49 1 year ago

I'd also recommend putting covers on the EPROM chips.

#56 1 year ago

I can recommend that dual NVRAM board. Installed one in my Flight 2000 and it works great!

#65 1 year ago
Quoted from acebathound:

FWIW I've got the "original" MPU-200 NVRAM in-stock & ready-to-ship here:
Also have some diagnostic tools that might help you out if you're doing a lot of board repairs on early Bally/Stern machines. Availability has been spotty on the tools, but I'm working to get some of them back in-stock this year. If you're interested in anything currently unavailable, get signed up on the waitlist(s).
http://www.pinitech.com - "Pinball Inspired Technology"
NVRAM, Bally/Stern LED Displays & Mods for pinball machines

Thanks for the reminder on the tools. I had looked at them before and want to order some to aid in bench testing. They look like they will save a lot of time.

1 month later
#129 11 months ago

How long are you giving it to boot up? Are all the switches for the three balls working? Are the wires intact and the pins for those ok in the connector shell at the MPU board.

#131 11 months ago

Not just reseat but shine a light in the connector shell for the switch matrix to look fir broken or sprung contacts. Had that problem on mine. Fixed the broken contact then it worked fine. Until another broke. Then I repinned all the pins in that connector and the issues went away. The contacts on some games are brittle and break easily.

#133 11 months ago
Quoted from Supersunny76:

Switch matrix.. which connector would that be.. ill check.. sorry forgive me.. its been a learning process

Should be the upper right on the MPU board.

#136 11 months ago

For the flickering displays you probably have cracked solder connections at the .156" header pins. a few of mine were like that too. I just fixed a couple more 7 digit displays this morning with the same problem. I prefer to use a desoldering tool to remove much of the old solder first then resolder those pins.

Also check the pins for the display glass too. I've had to resolder some of those as well.

As long as the glass display panel itself is ok those aren't too bad to repair.

1 week later
#176 10 months ago

If you have a chance checkout the PinWiki entry for the old Bally and Stern games:



At the very least add the extra jumper on the back of the driver board to tie the two 5v lines together. You'll also want to check for cracked solder joints at the headers. I usually remove most of the old solder, use a small wire brush on a Drexel tool or fiberglass eraser to clean off oxidation, and resolder those pins.

Most of the boards the high voltage cap for the displays tests fine but I change the large one for the main 5v supply with a fresh one.

These posts show how I add the jumpers to the back of the various versions of the driver boards. There are three that I add. The red for the 5v and the two black fir ground.


#192 10 months ago

Can you double check the connections for the switch matrix where it plugs into the MPU. Look from broken contacts. The original pins are very brittle and can break at any time. My machine was working fine but started acting up after swapping in another board that I repaired to test. At that moment one of the pins broke. Before I did anything else I carefully installed new pins on that whole connector.

Flight 2000 can act really weird if there are any open connections, missing or shorted diodes, bad caps, or just some random shorted connection.

#197 10 months ago

And as I recall the switch matrix is on the top right so the pins for that could be broken and causing the problems. Those are the ones I had problems with.

#213 10 months ago
Quoted from Supersunny76:

Yup..checked the other day... had continuity ..not the best shape though...
1-1/4 amp fuse i dont know what amp it need to be..and the uk equivalent

That should be the same amperage anywhere on the planet. Doesn't matter what region you're in.

The only exception may be the main fuse if running 220v instead of 110v.

#223 10 months ago

A friend recently ran into a machine that was missing an insulator on a drop target. It never caused a problem until a lamp was bumped and shorted against the drop target frame. That wouldn't have caused any issues if the insulator was in place.

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