(Topic ID: 238458)

Flight 2000 help!

By Supersunny76

1 year ago

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  • 239 posts
  • 23 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 months ago by chas10e
  • Topic is favorited by 12 Pinsiders


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#3 1 year ago

If that game's a keeper, I'd remove everything including the extra transformer, and rectifier board. Install a new rectifier board and re-wire it with new connectors. With that mess you'll forever have problems.

I'm surprised you only have one fuse that blows when you turn it on.

#12 1 year ago
IMG_2660 (resized).JPGf2k (resized).PNG
#15 1 year ago
Quoted from Supersunny76:

do the wire colours run in order..for j1 j2 j3..so they match each molex connector..?

The wire colors don't match on each connector. Also the schematic pin numbers don't run in order. Just follow the connector number (J1, J2, J3) and the pin numbers and the wire colors.

Quoted from Supersunny76:

Also J1 pin 3 say feature lamp bus.. is that missing a colour code?

I don't have the game here anymore but I think the J1 pin 3 is blue - the same as pin 7. Check your connector blocks and it looks like you have 2 blue wires connected to the same block. They should connect to pin 3 and pin 7. You can check continuity to the underside of the playfield to be sure.

Here's a photo of my F2K when I got it. And I thought it was a mess.

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#17 1 year ago

I find it easier to remove the base panel with everything attached (Transformer, board, etc.) and work on it at the workbench.

IMG_3673 (resized).JPG

Good luck on the bug.

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#19 1 year ago

Check the main transformer to be sure it's jumpered for 220.

#22 1 year ago

According to the diagram, yes, lugs 3 & 5 are jumpered correctly. Red wire is connected to lug 1. The diagram says the yellow wire is connected to lug 12 BUT it's shown connected to lug 13. That's confusing.

I'm not that familiar with British mains. May be someone more knowledgeable - like Quench - can tell if it's correct.

#23 1 year ago

Pinball’s, VW’s, and motorcycles – Sounds like you’re my British cousin. Now that I think about it I did trace my ancestry back to Yorkshire, UK. to 1598.

The black bug is actually a ’73. But I hate the ’73 taillights and bumpers. I replaced the fenders, bumpers, and taillights for earlier parts. Some of the specs are - 1776 cc - mild cam - Weber Carburetor - Electronic ignition - Flow-thru oil system with external oil filter - S & S headers - Electric fuel pump. 800 watt stereo system with electronic crossover and 10 speakers.

I posted some photos and video a while back:


And I see you’re into motorcycles. I posted some photos of some of my bikes a while back too.


Good luck with your hobbies. I think you'll enjoy pinball's too.

#26 1 year ago

According to the schematic, Lugs 13 and 14 are the taps for 7.8 VDC - so I don't think the mains would connect to lug 13.

Looking at the notes at the bottom left of the schematic (in post #12) - for 220 VAC - mains connect to 1 and 12. For 240 VAC - mains connect to 1 and 7.

The jumper at 3 to 5 are correct for both 220 and 240.

If you are on 240 volt mains you need to move the yellow wire from lug 12 to lug 7.

Quoted from Supersunny76:

On the instructions the it has two part numbers on the schematic ...or is it referring to the same part..i dont know.

I think you're referring to the Varistor in the back of the cabinet. I understand it's for voltage spikes. Quench would know the difference. My guess is 25A-18-1 is for 115 Volts and 25A-18-2 is for 220 Volts.

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#33 1 year ago

This is the back of my F2K board.

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#37 1 year ago

Like Quench said you'll need J2 connected to get mains power. I made up a J2 connector with just pins 6 and 7 connected to a wall plug. That way I can test all the voltages at the bench. But be very, very careful - you're messing with 240 volts here. Check then re-check your wiring before plugging it in.

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Quoted from Supersunny76:

i seen online how people can test the mpu broad for 6 or 7 flashes using a pc mains (and crocodile clips )

Yes, you can use a computer power supply to check the MPU's first 6 flashes. The PC power supply will give you 5 and 12 volts but you'll need 24 volts for the seventh flash. However, I've never had good luck using PC power supplies. I made my own power supply for 5, 12, and 24 volts. See post 287.


This is probably overkill for most people but the first thing I do with a game is remove the MPU, bench test it and replace any components that are bad or look questionable. Then I replace all the connector headers.

Post some photos of your MPU when you can. Quench is excellent at finding problems with just a few good photos.

#38 1 year ago

I counted 12 wires from the transformer to your board.

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And I counted 12 wires on your board the board.

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I also counted 12 wires on my board.

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Remove one wire at a time and connect it to the new board to the same "E" number.Check the "E" numbers because they may not be in the same location on the new board.

While you got it apart you may as well clean things up a bit. Maybe sand and paint to base and the speaker base too. A good cleaning in the bottom of the cabinet would help too.

#53 1 year ago

As Quench said you got some work ahead of you. Especially now you know the MPU won’t boot up. First thing is to remove ALL the corrosion – both sides. Any corrosion left behind will continue to grow. There’s several methods for removing it from baking soda to toilet cleaner. Remove the IC’s and give it a good cleaning. Look under the green solder mask. Scrape or sand away any loose solder mask and inspect the traces for any corrosion. The back side looks like it may have been affected too. You may have to do some trace repair. Corrosion can grow under the traces where you can’t see it. Also closely inspect any components. Replace any that look suspect. (They’re cheap and easy to replace at this point). While the IC’s are out, look closely at the sockets. Most likely the U8 socket is bad.

U8 and U13 are 5101 RAM chips. And they should be replaced in pairs. I’ve been having problems finding new 5101’s. If it were me, I’d replace them with NVRAM’s. This will also eliminate the need for a battery.

Quench also noticed the corrosion on the headers. To me, that’s the number one cause of failure. As standard procedure I always replace all the headers and crimp connectors on all the boards. Eliminating the corrosion, new headers and connectors and you’re on the way to a game that will last another 30 years.

Be careful and take your time removing components – especially IC sockets and headers. It’s very easy to remove the solder pad. Then you’ll have more work repairing your repair work.

Robotworkshop suggested you put covers on the EPROM chips. That’s a good suggestion. Ultraviolet light can erase the data on the chips. I usually put labels on all the chips so I remember where they go.

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3 weeks later
#119 1 year ago

Do you have to replace the plug housing also to use AMP connectors? Or will the fit into the Molex housing?

4 weeks later
#196 1 year ago

Sunny, You'll forever have problems until you replace ALL the crimp connectors.

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